First rechamber. Critiques needed. 10 Jan update

[hogpatrol]

^^^^^^^^^^
Well stated, shortgrass. It's the old adage, "build the foundation first".

 

[shortgrass]

When (if!) you ever hit the production mode, you will need to use inserts to be competitive. Before carbide and inserts became common, our tools came off of tool and cutter and surface grinders, for repeatability. A good toolmaker could make several so close to 'identical' no adjustment of the machine would be needed. Take the dull one out, put the sharp one in. Make sure the dull one went to the tool room. It was and is all about 'repeatability'. Before that (before my time) tools were hand ground, usually by the machinist using them. Even in those times before inserts, when tools were sharpened and made in the tool room, many times we would need to 'dress' the tool with an India stone to get best performance. In the shop where I work, there is still a Cincinnati tool and cutter grinder and an old B&S surface grinder with hydraulic feed. We keep wheels for HS for both. In the end, in production, inserts are lower in cost than paying a tool maker,,,,,, because he (the tool maker) has 'skills'. Still, in the 'one-off' situation that much of gunsmith machining is for the hobby guy, knowing why your tools work as they do and how to grind them yourself can do nothing but be a positive for your final results

 

[Stan Taylor]

Tubal Cain has some videos with optional methods.

[/QUOTe

there is a dying breed when it comes to making your own tool's

 

[jfseaman]

The quest for knowledge and "know-how" should be never ending, not even for the hobby guys

Darn straight!

 

[mram10]

Thanks for the critiques gents. I will call this one a practice and post my 300 wsm build on a Tikka when I get time next week. I’ll do an in depth write up so you can catch mistakes from indicating to head spacing.

 

[hogpatrol]

1. when threading an r700 tenon how much would you take off per pass on the compound?

2. Ive always wondered/suspected you might be mr pete? but you dont live over there by chicago. ( i guess)

1. .010 on the side for starters, then a few .005s with scattered spring cuts in between. Last cut is a spring cut . Here's my rig. I use brass tipped set screws, range rod and indicators. Ever since I had a tarantula too close for comfort, I'm afraid of spiders.

 

[shortgrass]

there is a dying breed when it comes to making your own tool's

Those that know something about tooling, other than "it comes out of a little box" are called 'dinosaurs'.

 

[hogpatrol]

Back in my day.

 

[Stan Taylor]

View attachment 1031504 Back in my day.

That's what I am talking about lol

 

[Shawnba67]

Dialed in muzzle with od. Not best, but don’t have a setup that reaches the rifling. Dialed in the breach with a 1” test indicator(.0005) pushed in the existing chamber.

I used a camera tripod with a piece of flat stock to hold my test indicator to dial in the outboard end.
It sucked moving the indicator to and fro. The tripod worked out ok, better than using the OD.
I bought a small magnetic backed dial indicator for $20 I still crave a dro but that indicator makes things possible. Like boring to the .001 on depth or pulling out on a thread at the same spot.
Keep at it man its a fun and challenging endeavor.

 

[Someoldguy]

1. .010 on the side for starters, then a few .005s with scattered spring cuts in between. Last cut is a spring cutView attachment 1031502 . Here's my rig. I use brass tipped set screws, range rod and indicators. Ever since I had a tarantula too close for comfort, I'm afraid of spiders.

K.I.S.S. Very well executed.

 

[mram10]

Not saying we shouldn’t learn hss, but if carbide works for now, why not get started and master one or the other. I’m not going to delay building rifles because I don’t understand ever facet.

 

[Someoldguy]

Not saying we shouldn’t learn hss, but if carbide works for now, why not get started and master one or the other. I’m not going to delay building rifles because I don’t understand ever facet.

Hmmmm . . .. .

Master you say?

Keep posting. I find Masters to be few and far between.

 

[mram10]

You know what I mean.

 

[Dusty Stevens]

you oughtta see the tool room where i used to work that had 30 plus davenport screw machines. we would make form tools and cams for hours to get thru one machine setup

 

[mram10]

Decided to stop all progress till the lathe was correctly setup. Took some 3x3 1/4” wall square tube and welded it to the bottom of the lathe stands. At the corners I put 5/8 all thread with boots to adjust height. Also drilled 5/8 hole in the concrete an inch deep to keep the lathe from moving. Rock solid now! Did some test cuts 12” out from the chuck and they looked very clean. Before there was a bunch of chatter. Still have a touch under .0005 in 12”on test piece but I’m done messing with the head stock. Too easy to throw it off. I’ll do a test chamber tomorrow and post to see the improvements in lathe stability and new tooling.

 

[Someoldguy]

Decided to stop all progress till the lathe was correctly setup. Took some 3x3 1/4” wall square tube and welded it to the bottom of the lathe stands. At the corners I put 5/8 all thread with boots to adjust height. Also drilled 5/8 hole in the concrete an inch deep to keep the lathe from moving. Rock solid now! Did some test cuts 12” out from the chuck and they looked very clean. Before there was a bunch of chatter. Still have a touch under .0005 in 12”on test piece but I’m done messing with the head stock. Too easy to throw it off. I’ll do a test chamber tomorrow and post to see the improvements in lathe stability and new tooling.

I have a small lathe. First thing I did when I brought it in was borrow the machinist's level from work and anchor it down with 1/2" concrete wedge anchors, 4" deep and washers/shims.
I have no idea what sort of trouble I'd have had with it just sitting on the floor, but I knew enough to know I wasn't interested in finding out.

Just be glad you're not trying to work off an oak floor . . . .

 

[mram10]

Tightened the 6 bolts that hold the lathe to the cabinets. Still getting a little vibration. Not sure where it is originating. After leveling again today to see if there was any settling, I have a touch over .001 in 12” of travel. I’ll give it more time than check again and adjust. Took a carbon fiber barrel out for my 300 wsm project and decided to get started. Shank, threading and light relief turned out great. Action fit like a glove. Very happy. Tomorrow I’ll finish the bolt recess and chamber. Still waiting on my manners unfortunately

 

[Someoldguy]

Tightened the 6 bolts that hold the lathe to the cabinets. Still getting a little vibration. Not sure where it is originating. After leveling again today to see if there was any settling, I have a touch over .001 in 12” of travel. I’ll give it more time than check again and adjust. Took a carbon fiber barrel out for my 300 wsm project and decided to get started. Shank, threading and light relief turned out great. Action fit like a glove. Very happy. Tomorrow I’ll finish the bolt recess and chamber. Still waiting on my manners unfortunately

Not sure what you are saying in your first sentence here. Your equipment needs to be as close to level as you can get it. .001" in 12" may well be pretty crappy, depending upon where and how it's measured.

Perhaps you need an introduction to the arts of Millwrights? If you don't get your equipment installed correctly, then your job is going to be exponentially more difficult.

 

[mram10]

I tightened the crap out of the 4 bolts under the headstock, that attach the lathe to the cabinets and the 2 under the tail stock. I don’t think it is a level thing, because I leveled it. Think the headstock needs slightly adjusted. From the factory, it was .007 in 12” before I adjusted it. Got it under .0005 yesterday, but adjusted other things on the lathe and it ended up just over .001 in 12” now.