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Cant seem to get the copper out of new Krieger barrel

L W P said:
I agree on https://www.midwayusa.com/product/2...2-copper-remover-bore-cleaning-solvent-liquid. This stuff works Great. Not sure how it can work so well with out a heavy ammonia smell,but it does. Wet patch 5 or 6 times and let set for how ever long you have time for and then wet patch 5 or 6 more and copper is usually gone. I always let my rifle soak with the barrel pointing downward resting against the inside corner wall so as not to fall over. Also a little trick that I use is to set the end of the barrel into a Dixie cup with some round cotton pads to protect the crown and soak up the blue solvent as it runs down and out the barrel. I feel this method works well as far as keeping the solvent contained and letting it run down the lands and groves. The bottle even says that it's a rust preventive and can leave it in the barrel until you are ready to shoot again, but dry patch before firing. That's why I say leave it in for as long as you want. It still works great with fast cleaning, but if I don't have time at the range to clean I take my time at home the next day letting usually 3-4 rifles soak over night. Also you do need to use aluminum jags and nylon brushes so as not to get a false reading.
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I've also used Holland's witches brew with his cleaning instructions. It works good but the Bore Tech Cu+2 copper remover just seems to work a little better easier. Just my 2 cents worth and to some it's not even worth that. Good luck and have fun!!
 
I've tried a plethora of cooper removers. KG 12 is by far the best. Thoroughly wet the bore and let it soak. Overnight preferably. Repeat as necessary. I shoot several hundred hot 6mm loads and on a prairie dog trip, I don't bother cleaning until I get home.
 
After all this crap and many other threads like this, nobody has said what causes the copper. I'll bet 99% don't know. How can you address a problem that you have no idea of the cause?
 
I don't have a clue, if it's other than shedding off the jacket from the friction. Want to clue us in, Butch?
 
L W P said:
Just seeing whats new, that's all.Didn't mean any harm. Sorry
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No worries! It doesn't bother me. Actually, I clicked here cause I'm not having much luck with my potions on a 223 barrel I'm cleaning.;) Welcome to the forum, by the way!:)
 
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L W P said:
Just seeing whats new, that's all.Didn't mean any harm. Sorry
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Please do not feel the need for any apologies.....I just didn't know if you were aware it was a 9 year old thread, that's all. I have resurrected some oldies myself on here a time or two.

butchlambert said:
After all this crap and many other threads like this, nobody has said what causes the copper. I'll bet 99% don't know. How can you address a problem that you have no idea of the cause?
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Pretty simple...take a bullet, rub it along the outside of a blued barrel. Presto, copper streak. Kinda works pretty much the same way inside the barrel. I am aware of the other things that happen too, like shavings from a rough throat turning to plasma, et cetera.....Personally, I could care less how it got there, it's how it gets removed that matters. I have tried them all and found two...JB Bore Cleaner if you are in a hurry and Sweets 7.62 if you have some time. But don't take too much time...7.62 can/will etch the bore.
 
That's why I like the Bore Tech copper remover, it doesn't harm the barrel and gets the copper out. If you have never tried it see if someone you know has some for you to try. What could it hurt and it's a rust preventive. Try my method or some other but be sure to use aluminum jags and nylon brushes. I still like to put a light coat of Kroil in the barrel when I'm finished though.
 
L W P said:
That's why I like the Bore Tech copper remover, it doesn't harm the barrel and gets the copper out. If you have never tried it see if someone you know has some for you to try. What could it hurt and it's a rust preventive. Try my method or some other but be sure to use aluminum jags and nylon brushes. I still like to put a light coat of Kroil in the barrel when I'm finished though.
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I agree, always start with Bore Tech Carbon remover, then use the Bore Tech Copper remover. I like the Dewey Copper Eliminator rods, brush cores (nylon bristles) and jags which are made from aluminum, so any trace of copper must come from the barrel. Cu2 on patches or brushes, use lots, and be patient.

My Krieger 6br has never needed any JB bore paste, nor have my benchrest barrels. I have used JB in the past, but have needed it less since I started using Bore Tech. It will remove any copper and occasional use should not damage a barrel.
 
Quick_Karl said:
Well...

>Snip<
I’m sure those Krieger’s are cut-rifled but not sure if they are hand-lapped? If they are hand-lapped I’d be wondering why it fouled so bad?
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Kriegers are cut rifled and are hand lapped. Keep in mind, the barrel is chambered AFTER lapping. The quality of the chambering and has a lot to do with a new barrel making copper. Tiny burrs and sharp edges can cause a lot of copper to be distributed in the bore. IMO, this is why you do barrel break in, not to smooth out the bore but to get rid of sharp edges left by the reamer. Cleaning often in the new barrel will aid in preventing copper building up and making it harder to clean.
 
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