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Do you use a parting tool to cut off your barrel?

I guess that after chambering I have to remove the barrel from the lathe before crowning. Why not bandsaw the end before installing in the catheads and then indicate and cut your crown. Why indicate a muzzle, part it off, and then reindicate or at least check it before crowning?
Yes,,,, even though I know how to set-up and use a cut-off, the band saw is just too handy.
 
Can you recommend one? I've never considered buying one. --Jerry
There are two different saws that people call a cold saw, because of how the work. For our purposes, either is fine but the old style will have better blade life. The new ones look like a chop saw but turn slower and are heavier built...Still not nearly as heavy as the old ones. Most of the major power tool brands make a chop saw type...i.e., Makita, Dewalt, Milwaukee, etc. They work great. Recently, cheaper brands have become available, such as whatever Northern Tool carries.
The name brand ones are in the $500 range, for this type.

The best ones are the old style, stand up models. They're built like a tank and blades will last a long time, IME. They turn slower and most can flood coolant over the part and cutting area. They're also much higher priced but not too bad if you can locate a good used one.

I went with the chop saw type for making flag poles and lots of misc cutting chores. If you use them the way they are meant, blade life is still just fair. Abuse them, and the blade life will suck! Cutting a typical BR barrel is about max for them, even though they can cut mild steel up to like 4x6 square(actually rectangle)

I've not timed it and you should NOT force it, but I'm guessing about 4-5 seconds to cut through a typical BR barrel. There are no sparks with them.

Here's a link to a google search for "cold saw"
https://www.google.com/search?q=col.....69i57j0l5.4958j0j9&sourceid=chrome&ie=UTF-8
 
I guess that after chambering I have to remove the barrel from the lathe before crowning. Why not bandsaw the end before installing in the catheads and then indicate and cut your crown. Why indicate a muzzle, part it off, and then reindicate or at least check it before crowning?
Butch, I kind of chamber different then everyone else, using a ground tube and screws at each end indicate between centers then part of to length, the only real reason is making weight when real close I can take in and out to weigh...
 
Can you recommend one? I've never considered buying one. --Jerry

https://www.makitatools.com/products/details/LC1230

Jerry this is the one I bought along time ago for building BBQ pits and metal fab work. The blades are around $100 and last along time if you are gentle on the carbide blades. They work really well for me I use it to cut everything. Also a local shop by my house refurbishes the carbide blades cheap if not a lot of the teeth are missing. I think in the ten years ive owned it ive bought like 4 blades, and ive built a lot of BBQ pits and big metal gates for people, lots of cuts out of it.
 
https://www.makitatools.com/products/details/LC1230

Jerry this is the one I bought along time ago for building BBQ pits and metal fab work. The blades are around $100 and last along time if you are gentle on the carbide blades. They work really well for me I use it to cut everything. Also a local shop by my house refurbishes the carbide blades cheap if not a lot of the teeth are missing. I think in the ten years ive owned it ive bought like 4 blades, and ive built a lot of BBQ pits and big metal gates for people, lots of cuts out of it.
I used a bandsaw most times, and sometimes I'd part them off, before buying my saw. I had wanted one since I first saw one demo'd when Makita brought them out. I think Makita was the first to offer them. . I heard mixed reviews about blade life from several fab shop owners. Of course, most of them had some flunkie operating them. Most of them said blade life and cost was the down side but after talking to a few that owned them and were pretty much the only ones that got to use them, they confirmed that blade life is pretty fair if you use it right, and not just to see how fast it'll cut. They are impressive though and will flat cut! It's one of those things you have to see to believe, really. I had used the old style cold saws when I worked in machine shops, years ago. They have their place too, and I do think they'll outlast these by a long way, but so far I'm happy and have cut off probably 40 barrels, quite a few odd jobs and a ton of aluminum tubing for flag poles.

I bet they do great for your grills. They cut miters in steel like a picture frame...very clean, square cuts. Almost too clean...Probably wouldn't hurt to fillet the edges some before welding.

This is a tool that most of us wouldn't do without if they ever give one a try. --Mike
 
I part off both ends. A thin disk off chamber in for reference. Part off muzzle and face square and recess crown .010".
Never had a customer with a problem.
 
I part off all types of work and have never had an issue with a parting tool, but part off a barrel and see if your reamer bushing fits.... .

Trim the burr raised by the parting tool and the bushing fits like it did before the parting operation. .0002" more wont go. Thats why that pilot was selected. Then finish up with your preferred crowning operation. A lot of worrying here about kidd-gloving something you are going to shoot a bullet through...:confused:
 
Trim the burr raised by the parting tool and the bushing fits like it did before the parting operation. .0002" more wont go. Thats why that pilot was selected. Then finish up with your preferred crowning operation. A lot of worrying here about kidd-gloving something you are going to shoot a bullet through...:confused:
that's what I'm thinking . distorted material .100 dp from parting off well that pegged my b.s. meter......
 
Many do all their barrel work, both chamber end and muzzle end, using a "spider'. I don't believe I'd 'part off' with the work held in a 'spider',,,,,,, and I've been using parting tools for more than 40yrs, now.
The spider isn't really an issue just need to support with a center....as stated above chips need to roll off like ribbons..same as you 47 yrs. and counting[/QUOTE]
Agree 100 percent 47 plus years and counting
 
that's what I'm thinking . distorted material .100 dp from parting off well that pegged my b.s. meter......

Unless I missed it, nobody said that it was distorted .100. Someone asked me how much material I took off after I parted and that's what I estimated. In a 1.25" muzzle barrel I leave a lip and then put either an 11 deg or a 0 deg crown on it. In the one I was referencing I did an 11 deg crown so it took of quite a bit of material. Don't think anyone said this is the minimum.

--Jerry
 
Just an observation. I have chambered thousands of barrels with a thread relief groove at the shoulder. All work done on my Haas. I turn the tenon length short and then plunge in with a grooving insert to get the tenon length correct and cut the thread relief groove. I usually take a cut of .020-.025" off the face of the shoulder when doing this. On every barrel I can see a change in the grain structure at the location of the last pass when I turned the tenon to length and diameter. One day I decided see how far the change went. After taking off another .040" off the face of the shoulder the ring was still there on the face of the shoulder. I stopped there or I had to buy a barrel. What did this tell me. The cutting forces on the tip of a VNMG turning insert are likely much higher than a properly ground parting tool used correctly.
 

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