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Scope rail mounting help

I have not used a rail before on a bolt action. I went to mount a new scope recently and the rail did not rest flat on the two mounting surfaces. If pressed flat on the rear of the action it lifts from the front about .020". I am concerned that inducing stress in the action could harm accuracy. Should I bolt it up and go, or maybe try truing it up to fit the action. I am using Burris XTR Signature rings, so I could also shim it. I don't like the idea of shimming to where rigid rings would be a problem if used later. This is already a replacement, the first base lifted up about .050" or .060". The base is from a major manufacturer and they kindly rushed me a replacement. It's a newer rifle model, so they might be having some problems sorting this rail out, or maybe this is typical. I don't know. Any thoughts?
 
I was trying to avoid tarnishing a brand, but it is a Warne. The action is a Howa Mini. It looks to be nicely machined. I had considered putting some Talley rings and a different scope on to see how well that set up fit.
 
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I was trying to avoid tarnishing a brand, but it is a Warne. The action is a Howa Mini. It looks to be nicely machined. I had considered putting some Talley rings and a different scope on to see how well that set up fit.
Warne makes good stuff. Have you checked the action with a straight edge?
 
The top of each surface is pretty damn straight and they appear parallel. They are different heights, supposed to be the same offset as a 700. I have not measured the offset or parallelism.
 
I have not used a rail before on a bolt action. I went to mount a new scope recently and the rail did not rest flat on the two mounting surfaces. If pressed flat on the rear of the action it lifts from the front about .020". I am concerned that inducing stress in the action could harm accuracy. Should I bolt it up and go, or maybe try truing it up to fit the action. I am using Burris XTR Signature rings, so I could also shim it. I don't like the idea of shimming to where rigid rings would be a problem if used later. This is already a replacement, the first base lifted up about .050" or .060". The base is from a major manufacturer and they kindly rushed me a replacement. It's a newer rifle model, so they might be having some problems sorting this rail out, or maybe this is typical. I don't know. Any thoughts?

It's no big deal....it happens from time to time where two different manufacturers don't "align" with one another. I've had it happen on other actions.....Just bed the base like in this video link. Good luck.

https://video.search.yahoo.com/sear...=18b811b2a16f24f3383292d492dd0299&action=view
 
Thanks, I may bed it as a later resort. It is a great option, I just prefer not to. I will probably shoot it as is, or maybe go for two piece bases. Realistically, this thing isn't likely to be great, right now. I just don't want to turn a MOA shooter into a two MOA shooter. This is going to be an extended project. I have modeled up the action and want to make a chassis for it. If I find the time for that, then rebarrel and accuracy touches like bedding the base will be more appealing.
 
Thanks, I may bed it as a later resort. It is a great option, I just prefer not to. I will probably shoot it as is, or maybe go for two piece bases. Realistically, this thing isn't likely to be great, right now. I just don't want to turn a MOA shooter into a two MOA shooter. This is going to be an extended project. I have modeled up the action and want to make a chassis for it. If I find the time for that, then rebarrel and accuracy touches like bedding the base will be more appealing.

Just remember, going to a 2 piece base will put more stress on the scope, if there is a tolerance issue like in the one piece base. Mount both to the scope and see if they both touch the action equally before you commit to the 2 piece option.
 
Due to the limited options for a one piece rail for the mini, the 2 piece bases are the way to go. Personally, I am now using the Talley one piece ring-base combo. They make them for the Howa. One less area to be misaligned/fail.
 
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I am mounting the base. If it doesn't seem right or shoot satisfactorily, I will probably cut the base up into two pieces. Thanks for all of the input.
 
Ed,
I would be more concerned with putting the scope in a bind, than the action. I would either bed the base or use a 2 piece base with Burris Signature rings. Binding of either base or action is never a good thing. Just my two cents.:D:D

Paul

www.boltfluting.com
 
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really, just bed it with JB Weld. i am ham handed at working with glues, but even i did it no problem. get some Playdough and some clear shoe polish and look at this:


 

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