after chamfer/wire edge inside case neck

[tcr1146]

I presently use the Forster chamfer tool for inside and outside neck chamfers. It leaves a wire edge inside the case neck that I then remove with a pocket knife which is not a lot of fun! Is there a better tool to remove this wire edge, or, do I need a different chamfer tool in the first place? Thanks, Tom

 

[Terry]

http://www.midwayusa.com/product/342199/lyman-chamfer-tool-vld-very-low-drag

This is what I use.

 

[savagedasher]

http://www.midwayusa.com/product/342199/lyman-chamfer-tool-vld-very-low-drag

This is what I use.

Brass brush . Even with vld tool . Larry

 

[tcr1146]

Dasher: Are you saying a .224 bronze brush in a drill or what are you saying for .224 brass? Thanks, Tom

 

[savagedasher]

Dasher: Are you saying a .224 bronze brush in a drill or what are you saying for .224 brass? Thanks, Tom

I use it along with my rcbs case prep It rotates . Larry

 

[JRS]

I use a nut driver packed with bronze wool and chuck it up in a cordless drill. It removes the burr both inside and outside.

 

[BenPerfected]

Here is another option.

http://www.midwayusa.com/product/211733/lyman-case-prep-xpress-case-prep-center-115-volt

 

[Brians356]

http://www.midwayusa.com/product/342199/lyman-chamfer-tool-vld-very-low-drag

This is what I use.

You have to be careful with that tool, it is easy to remove too much material and essentially make the case into a decent leather hole punch. And it still should be followed up with a spin against 0000 steel wool (same as after any chamfer tool.)

Most folks (I'm guilty as well) remove too much material when they chamfer and deburr.

 

[Terry]

All tools require proper use. I have mine on a RCBS case center. Just a touch works fine.

 

[Brians356]

All tools require proper use.

That's true. And it's also true many folks remove too much material when chamfering. (My comment was a general observation, not directed at you specifically.)

 

[savagedasher]

All tools require proper use. I have mine on a RCBS case center. Just a touch works fine.

Any metal that has had a cutting process has a rolled edge on it . The best example is a knife edge . Try removing that . I use a rotating brush in the inside . Larry

 

[zipollini]

I use the following inside chamfer tool

1. It has an included angle of 7 deg. which makes the transition of chamfer to neck much smoother and makes bullet seating much smoother
2. It controls the depth of the chamfer giving much better repeatability

http://kmshooting.com/tools/case-neck-tools/case-neck-chamfer/small-17-6mm-reamer.html

I then spin a bronze brush in my Lyman case prep center and covered in 0000 steel wool inside the neck to polish it and smooth out any imperfections. I don't have to use any case lube for seating bullets and if I pull the bullet out after seating it the bullet is not scratched at all.

 

[GPat]

For years I've been using a Wilson inside/outside debur that was sharpened by my cutter manufacturer/tool resharpener. Recently I've had a few requests for them and we started offering them on our website. There is a world of difference between using an off-the-rack debur and one that has been professionally sharpened.

 

[Iowa Fox]

Here's a good read on case mouths after chamfering. I made a couple using the copper pipe caps with the 1/4" rod soldered on. I've seen guys use sockets and nut drivers but then you gotta fish the steel wool out before you can use them for what they were intended for. This way you can keep the dedicated steel wool spinner on the bench. I use a 12x loupe a lot when inspecting neck mouths.

http://www.varmintal.com/arelo.htm

 

[nmkid]

I use the following inside chamfer tool

1. It has an included angle of 7 deg. which makes the transition of chamfer to neck much smoother and makes bullet seating much smoother
2. It controls the depth of the chamfer giving much better repeatability

http://kmshooting.com/tools/case-neck-tools/case-neck-chamfer/small-17-6mm-reamer.html

I then spin a bronze brush covered in 0000 steel wool inside the neck to polish it and smooth out any imperfections. I don't have to use any case lube for seating bullets and if I pull the bullet out after seating it the bullet is not scratched at all.

I use one of these and it work pretty good. However, the rod that goes into the primer hole could be a little thicker to prevent wobble.

 

[zipollini]

I use one of these and it work pretty good. However, the rod that goes into the primer hole could be a little thicker to prevent wobble.

I agree and I wish we could get a version that we could hook up to a power drill, screwdriver or something else to speed things up.

 

[JohnKielly]

I've had issues with about every hand held chamfering tool I've ever used. These days, I inside chamfer with a Wilson VLD tool. It aligns perfectly every time & as long as I'm up to speed with my trim to length, cuts identical clean minimum chamfers whether I hand turn or use my dinky little 3.6V driver - and it doesn't leave hard edges.

 

[itchyTF]

I use a Brass Barber from Monodnock Machine. Trims & chamfers inside & out in one operation. A little tricky to set up but once it's done it's pretty slick. Not sure if he's still making them (or still alive for that matter).