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Savage barrel nut torque

Are there any Savage people out there that know the correct torque value for the Savage barrel nut? I just installed a brand new Pac-Nor and it is on tight but I would like to know if there is a specific number or are good mechanical practices good enough?
Thanx in advance,
Chino69
 
I've rebarreled several Savage rifles and have been using 30 to 40 ft lbs on the barrel nuts. None have ever came loose, and I've found that the headspace comes out correct when I use these torque specs along with the commonly accepted method of screwing the action in on a GO gauge until it just stops then torquing the barrel nut. This method allows the chamber to accept the GO gauge but the bolt handle will only close about 25% on the NO GO gauge. This method is the most commonnly used one that I found on the savageshooters.net site.

Having said all of that, I recently found out that Savage torques the barrel nuts to 70 ft lbs when assembling their rifles at the factory. This spec comes from a recent article,along with pictures) that was published in an industry trade journal. Someone posted this info on the savageshooters forum just a few days ago along with a copy of a photo showing a Savage assembly line worker torquing a barrel at the factory.

That 70 ft lbs may be one reason why some of the factory installed barrels are so darned hard to break loose the first time :lol:

HTH,
Alan
 
Alan,
Thank you for your reply. I posted this same question on Benchrest Central and one of the fellows sent me to the link that you are talking about that specifies 70 ft/lbs. I torqued mine to 35 ft/lbs. and that feels just about right. I used a fired case to establish headspace and since this is for a .243 A.I., a .004 'crush fit' is about right for fireforming brass.
Regards,
Chino69
 
I have 2 Savage rifles. One barrel nut came off easy. The other took 2 men and a boy to get it loose! :confused: And for sure, it didn't go back on that tight. Don't know the numbers but I snug mine up by hand, then give the wrench a good rap. Coming back off later was a pleasure. Didn't have to worry about messing something up! Some of the folks have talked about having to cut the nut off because it was "so" tight.
70 ft.lbs. sure seem like a lot! 35 ft.lbs. seems more to my liking! ;)
 
NorCalMikie,
I agree that 35 ft/lbs. is about right. When I had the nut loose, I tried several different settings and 35 appeared to be snug enough to prevent any loosening. I am curious as to why the factory goes as high as they do; perhaps it has to do with dampening harmonics. Does anyone out there know?
Regards,
Chino69
 
The Savage Barrel Nut is engineered to not exceed 50 foot pounds of torque. I too have had some factory installed barrel nuts that were put on by a gorillia. I find my customers get best accuraccy with barrel nuts tightened to about 35-40 foot pounds of torque. Barrel nuts overtorqued will stretch, warp, crack, etc.
Rustystud
 
Rustystud,
I agree with your numbers as well. The factory puts the nut on and torques it to 70 ft/lbs. as shown in an article posted on Benchrest Central. I'm not sure if that is for liability reasons or if there is a valid engineering reason. If there is a valid engineering reason I would be curious to know why. I will try to e-mail Savage and post the answer here as sharing info. is what makes this such a great site.
Regards,
Chino69
 
There are a few reasons for manufacturers decisions: legal, cost, function, utility, better looking, or accuracy. Most all of the bad decisions made are probably caused by legal or cost considerations. Since this can't be cost, utility or accuracy, it must be legal. JimDee
 
oldjad1,
I'll post how I make out as I'm going to start breaking the barrel in this week-end. The barrel and nut are matchmarked and were torqued with a calibrated torque wrench to 35 ft/lbs. which is snug. I could have torqued more but just used good mechanical 'feel' to establish this setting. I loosened and tightened the nut and barrel several times until I was satisfied. I've read many threads and alot of people that have swapped out barrels using the Savage barrel nut are within +/- 10 ft/lbs. of this figure. The barrel is a Pac-Nor 1:12 three groove .243 A.I. .270 nd Super Match. Reports to follow.
Regards,
Chino69
 
Chino69:

You said you were going to call Savage Arms. If you talk to Joe DeGrande tell him hello for me. He is a fine guy and knows Savages in and out. He is very helpful and will give you the straight and narrow.
Rustystud a/k/a Nathaniel G. Lambeth, Sr.
 
One thing to consider is that because of the way the torque wrench is attached to the bbl nut wrench you are applying more than the indicated torque. If you are using the square drive next to the bbl then it is a bit more, if you are using the drive hole at the other end of the wrench then it is a LOT more.

rj
 
I called Savage several years ago and was told "hand tight" with the SSS or Wheeler wrench was plenty tight.

Once doing this, I used a torque wrench to loosen it and with accounting for the offset from the center line, it was right at 35ft lbs....

Imagine that!!

For anyone who's interested, machinery's handbook gives a table and formulas of torque corrections for extensions, socket depths, offsets etc.
 
Any 'official' instructions from Savage located yet?

It would also be important to know what lub to use on the threads if any.
 
For a right hand twist barrel most of the torque factory's use it a bit much. Yes im sure its for safety reasons so they dont get a legal action against them. I have ran regular setup up actions and barrels at 35 ft/lbs and have had great luck with them. I even have a gun setup that i dont use any torque on at all. The barrel does not loosen up and i can change barrels without pulling any tools out. I would caution against doing this unless you were really good at checking things out before you shoot but im just saying its possible.
 
Very good information for those that are not sure.
I'm bumping this up for the sole purpose of those that may question what adequate torque on a Savage barrel nut should be.
 
Last edited:
Just about any lube will work on the threads.
White grease, oil, anything. Pass on the Never-Seize. That stuff gets on EVERYTHYING!! :rolleyes:
As far as nut torque? Headspace set, nut snug, nut wrench tapped with a "steel hammer", double check the headspace and you're good to go shooting.
Out of how many (??) barrel swaps, never had one come loose and you don't have to be a GOROLLA to break the nut loose again when needed.

As far as factory nut torque? Something like 5000 ft. lbs. (or is it pound feet) :( according to anybody trying to break the nut loose for the first time. :mad::mad:
 
The Savage Barrel Nut is engineered to not exceed 50 foot pounds of torque. I too have had some factory installed barrel nuts that were put on by a gorillia. I find my customers get best accuraccy with barrel nuts tightened to about 35-40 foot pounds of torque. Barrel nuts overtorqued will stretch, warp, crack, etc.
Rustystud
 
The Savage Barrel Nut is engineered to not exceed 50 foot pounds of torque. I too have had some factory installed barrel nuts that were put on by a gorillia. I find my customers get best accuraccy with barrel nuts tightened to about 35-40 foot pounds of torque. Barrel nuts overtorqued will stretch, warp, crack, etc.
Rustystud

Agreed.
 

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