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WOW! 1/2 inch AR-500 STEEL COULD NOT STAND THE 260AI W/140 GR. BERGERS

Yes, this steel is behind my actual target. The M V on this load is 3069 fps. I was taking my time as to not heat up my barrel. Probably over a 10 to 15 min. span I'd guess.
You were probably at about 2,900 at impact. That’s about 100 FPS fast for AR500. Especially with that much sectional density & a group that tight.
 
I'm not a metallurgist, but in the steel business for many years. And my memory is fading, so take it easy on me if I am a little off base.

AR stands for abrasion resistant. The "500" is the brinell hardness number. AR plate can be had in varying hardness's. Its original use was in applications such as dump truck beds, loader buckets, etc. It is considered a high carbon steel, thats where it gets it hardness. Carbon does not necessarily make steel stronger, just harder and possibly more brittle.

A514 is a structural steel, at one time USS called it T1, is not as hard as AR500 but is much stronger and tougher. This is what I used to make high power silhouette targets out of and I believe it is the recommended steel for such targets. It never failed. The only problem we ever had with the targets was the feet would break off. Some of our members would weld the feet on with lower strength rod and a lot of it and then it would cool relatively fast and become brittle. Once we started preheating, welding with 11018 then covering the targets with an asbestos blanket so they would cool slowly, that problem went away.

So I guess I am saying that AR500 may not be the ideal steel for targets, especially repeated high energy impacts. And if memory serves me, the AR is less expensive than A514 and therefore its appeal as target material.
 
I can't help you with the steel, but your load sounds about right. I was loading 48 of 4831 in Lapua brass, then 47.7 in Peterson srp brass with Berger 140VLDT running around 2920 in a 26" barrel. I switched to RL23 and roughly the same charge and was getting 2975 and the barrel didn't seem to get as hot as quick.
 
I use chain. With bolts freely obtained from work . You can use anything you want for linkage. If it’s AR500 plate the nuts or bolt heads that are holding your plate to your linkage are going to give up the ghost from bullet wash(unless your linkage is weaker than your bolts) long before your AR500 plate ever shows any signs of distress. Just my experience.
 
I use chain. With bolts freely obtained from work . You can use anything you want for linkage. If it’s AR500 plate the nuts or bolt heads that are holding your plate to your linkage are going to give up the ghost from bullet wash(unless your linkage is weaker than your bolts) long before your AR500 plate ever shows any signs of distress. Just my experience.
Yea the bolts are already showing some harsh wear.
 
A514 is a structural steel, at one time USS called it T1, is not as hard as AR500 but is much stronger and tougher. This is what I used to make high power silhouette targets out of and I believe it is the recommended steel for such targets. It never failed. The only problem we ever had with the targets was the feet would break off. Some of our members would weld the feet on with lower strength rod and a lot of it and then it would cool relatively fast and become brittle. Once we started preheating, welding with 11018 then covering the targets with an asbestos blanket so they would cool slowly, that problem went away.

Bill, I used to shoot IHMSA when the half scale came on the scene. A lot of guys showed up with PPCs, 6 BR etc. They really trashed our mild steel targets even at the 200 meter line. As the clubs could afford it they went to T1 targets. Even then we has velocity limit and rule about damaging targets. I made a couple full size turkeys out of T1 just to practice on. All the normal rounds bounced right off. I had a brain fart one day and decided to test them with my 22-.250 Lone Eagle. 52 Blitz I think at around 3200. It really sent the targets flying. They both had a serious crater and a matching dimple on the back.
 
You proved that your load will destroy an AR500 target at 100 yards.
Velocity is the culprit that damages the targets. Simply move back until the target is not damaged.

Allowing the target to move will also allow it to adsorb the energy, you only have the bolt to hole clearance in this case, mounting it on something that swings will help a lot.

AR500 comes heat treated from the mill. It is heat treated in continuous sheets over 10 feet wide, then cut into sheets and sent to the fabricators in the hardened condition. The target manufacturer does NO heat treating.

Method of cutting, ie, plasma, laser, waterjet has very little to do with the heat treat. The affected zone is only about 1/32".

All targets can crack when hit near the edge,,,, primarily because there is NO support at the outside edge.

Target bullets , or full metal jacket, both act the same on a target, that .030 to .060 soft copper jacket disintegrates when it hits the hardened steel.

I was an AR500 target manufacturer, and I know that any body can ruin an AR500 target.
Police departments that shoot 223 at AR500 at close range regularly turn them into cratered bowls.
Range operators have to replace target regularly.

Catching bullets is hard work, give your targets a break,,,,, velocity is the culprit,,,,,,,, move back!!!
 
Good info.
As far as hanging steel I use seat belt material with a bolt and washer in the back of the target. They can take a bunch of shots and just take a minute to replace if you do shoot one up.
 
It’s interesting as to how the wood support has been painted gray by the lead splatter, and how the erosion of the wood shows how the lead was splayed outward in a radial pattern.
 
It’s interesting as to how the wood support has been painted gray by the lead splatter, and how the erosion of the wood shows how the lead was splayed outward in a radial pattern.
Yes Sir, it actually digs a trench in the ground across the support "feet" of the target stand as well. I'll try and get a pic next time I'm at the target.
 

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