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Working with carbon fiber barrels, help

  • Thread starter Thread starter mram10
  • Start date Start date

mram10

I'm getting contradicting info on chucking up carbon barrels and need clarification.
1. Do they chuck up like a normal barrel, aka on the carbon fiber?
2. What is used to remedy slippage?
3. Does the length of chuck jaws matter?
4. What are the major differences when threading and chambering?
I'm sure they are novice questions, but I am getting different answers from goodmgunsmiths. Thanks
 
When the first carbon fiber wrapped barrel came into my shop to be chambered, I called the barrel maker. I would suggest you do the same! 'Cause if you take advice off of an interdnet forum, it won't be advice from the people that made the barrel! Go straight to the source.
 
I will do that, however there are many techniques that guys on here have figured out. Please post any info you have learned in machining carbon wrapped barrels.
 
The carbon barrels that I have done have a long stainless steel shank that you can chuck on just like a regular barrel, so you don't need to do anything different there. For the spindle spider screws I use some masking tape between the screw tips and the carbon fiber. I've never had a problem, but you don't need to torque the screws down very tight or you may damage the carbon. Just tight enough to hold the barrel.
 
can't answer for christensen or carbon six, just proof.

I'm getting contradicting info on chucking up carbon barrels and need clarification.
1. Do they chuck up like a normal barrel, aka on the carbon fiber? yes. assuming you have chuck jaws with a flat surface for the fiber. breech end chucks on the steel tang, muzzle end on the carbon fiber. breech end is several inches of steel tang, and there is .800 steel for .600 of threading/crowning on the muzzle.
2. What is used to remedy slippage? crank that sucker down. if it slips on the fiber, it's probably going to scrap. slipping is not an option.
3. Does the length of chuck jaws matter? whatever you use for steel, go with it. for fiber, in a 3 jaw setup, 1+" is fine.
4. What are the major differences when threading and chambering? shouldn't be any, you're chucked up and working with the same material.
I'm sure they are novice questions, but I am getting different answers from goodmgunsmiths. Thanks

i've spent some time crowning barrels there. operator+ level, i'm not a machinist. if you need better chambering answers, i can ask after thanksgiving break.
 
Thank you for the info gentlemen. I called Christensen arms and they said the same thing. Act like it’s a normal steel barrel. Still like to hear more techniques to make it easier.
 
shouldn't need any, really. you (barrel manufacturer) have to leave a good shank for chamber support, and usually another inch or two for the tang. so on the chamber end there's a lot of steel there. our guys clamp on with a smaller 6 jaw chuck, and i hit the muzzles with a larger 3 jaw chuck. i had to clamp directly on the carbon fiber, and never had any issues with "too tight." i had a few come loose on me and wrecked the carbon fiber. i also ran a lot of steel barrels through my lathe and there was no difference in procedure for me. it's ok to get coolant and oil on the barrels, it wipes off and doesn't damage the resin (ours, at least). the machining process won't generate enough heat to damage the resin, either. you're clamping on steel, machining through steel, it's literally the same process.
 
The carbon barrels that I have done have a long stainless steel shank that you can chuck on just like a regular barrel, so you don't need to do anything different there. For the spindle spider screws I use some masking tape between the screw tips and the carbon fiber. I've never had a problem, but you don't need to torque the screws down very tight or you may damage the carbon. Just tight enough to hold the barrel.
We have a winner : )
 

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