Win 70 Stock refinishing

[montana_native]

I have a stock from a 1968 Winchester Model 70 that I have removed the finish from. I am not sure what the stock is made of as far as the wood is concerned but I suspect it’s walnut. It’s got a very nice grain and the checkering is still sharp. I have no idea what to use for a refinish after I remove the dents. I’d like more of a satin look to it rather than the factory’s gloss finish.

I’ve attached some pics of the color/sheen I am trying to obtain. Any advice on the best way to get there is greatly appreciated.

 

[Preacher]

Google ARROW WOOD FINISH, and buy it....
Best thing ever for a deep shine, or a matt finish.
Follow the instructions, and you'll be a happy finisher....

 

[montana_native]

Google ARROW WOOD FINISH, and buy it....
Best thing ever for a deep shine, or a matt finish.
Follow the instructions, and you'll be a happy finisher....

Does it make for a darker finish? That is one think that I am trying to achieve... The factory stock was a little light colored for my tastes. Thank you.

 

[Preacher]

You will need to use a stain to make it darker....

 

[montana_native]

Ordered up some of the Arrow. Do you really use "abrasive paper" as they recommend to apply the finish?

 

[Preacher]

YES, the grit to start with depending on how rough the finish is...
320 grit paper will use the dust and the oil to help fill in the pores...
I use it to start with, and then go to 400 and then 500 or more depending on the type of finish I'm looking for... This rear grip XP-100 stock I made was ended at 400 grit....

 

[captkaos]

I make my own color coat by mixing wood stains, boiled linseed oil and satin spar varnish thinned with some mineral spirits. Wipe the mixture on a stock sanded to 320 grit. Apply a coat, let sit for a few mins then wipe off the excess.
A few applications may darken it but it's better to get the color you want close with the mixture first.

Then I sand in on subsequent coats using the mixture for a few followed by straight boiled linseed oil, thinning a tiny bit to make it sand easier. The sanded coats w/oil have to sit and dry for a day or so in between new coats. Wipe the excess sanded oily stuff off in the direction of the grain using a light touch on a folded rag. Finish by applying a light coat of plain furniture paste wax.

With many coats sanded to as high as 800 grit you can get it to have a very smooth surface. It will get slippery though. I usually stop at 400 grit and leave some of the pores/grain unfilled to give it a little grip.

 

[montana_native]

What do you do for the checkering?

 

[captkaos]

Coat it after prepping with the first coat or 2 before sanding starts. Tape off the checkering when sanding with the heavier grit paper. Scrub it with a stiff toothbrush to clean, I use a little furniture stripper if it's got any coating on it.

I also clean up the grooves if needed with a small riffler file then just rub in a little of the stain then sanding stuff with each coat. Clean the grooves out before letting sit to dry.

When I get the surface where I like I switch to rubbing a light coat of oil on everything by hand, working it in fast to make heat.

 

[watercam]

Brownells has a French Walnut Stain with filler that works wonderfully and gives a deep, rich, slightly reddish tone.
Looks just like the pic you posted.

 

[markr]

Pilkingtons English Red will give you what you want!

 

[montana_native]

I tried the Arrow finish. It came out exactly how I wanted it to. Nice satin finish and it really complemented the factory stock wood grain.

I'm very pleased. Thanks for all of the recommendations.