Who doesnt anneal?

[Kracken McGraw]

When you are measuring bump, do you measure it immediately off the press? Try measuring 24 to 48 hours later. Brass is alive. Annealing takes its testosterone away.....

Thanks this explains the noises I hear at night!

 

[6BRA]

View attachment 1411280The outer surface of these cases are not perfect, when I use a comparator that covers the shoulder I can get minor variations whereas if I use a comparator that datum’s off the mid shoulder ( in my case I use a Hornday .30 insert) and keep the mating surface clean the amount of variations is quite minimal.

have you tried SAC comparators? They fit the entire shoulder, caliber specific. Is that one of the comparators you are referencing? Considering lube on the shoulder will cause abnormal bump...I get the imperfect/ unclean statement.

 

[JFrank]

I have not tried the SAC although I’ve heard good feedback regarding them. I’ve been though Wilson, Harrel’s and Hornday, Sinclair was on the list but I really think the Larry Willis tool would be top of the line utilizing a sharpe edge as the datum point.

Instructions for reloading with the Digital Headspace Guage

Instructions for reloading with the Digital Headspace Guage

www.larrywillis.com

 

[dcali]

For those of you that don't anneal how are you getting consist shoulder bump? I have always had problems with all my competition rifles without annealing and getting consist shoulder set back. And I've tried a lot of presses and dies and they do matter, but I had so many different piles of sorted lengths and that lead me to annealing every time. Still cull brass for record pieces but not as many. I would love to stop and save the time so I really am interested in learning what the hell im doing wrong.

Sometimes that’s a lube issue. Maybe try experimenting with your process there.

 

[Badhabit]

Sometimes that’s a lube issue. Maybe try experimenting with your process there.

If it's a lube issue wouldn't it also apply to annealed brass? What is the best way to apply lube? I'm really trying to learn from this

 

[rwj]

View attachment 1411280The outer surface of these cases are not perfect, when I use a comparator that covers the shoulder I can get minor variations whereas if I use a comparator that datum’s off the mid shoulder ( in my case I use a Hornday .30 insert) and keep the mating surface clean the amount of variations is quite minimal.

I prefer a full shoulder width comparator (made using the chamber reamer) to ensure that the resized case will freely chamber. I’ve been “fooled” by the line contact inserts that don’t replicate the entire contact patch...

 

[Ricky Cain]

For me I can’t remember having a neck split since I started annealing. Consistent necks for sure. I’ve got some ridiculous numbers of loadings on some brass. I got well over 30 on some Lapua small primer 308’s before primer pockets got loose.
Really I guess it’s comes down to what your goal is in accuracy and case life. I also reloaded for years before annealing. I use an annealeze now but annealed thousands by spinning case in deep socket while holding torch.

 

[dcali]

If it's a lube issue wouldn't it also apply to annealed brass? What is the best way to apply lube? I'm really trying to learn from this

Possibly. Annealed brass is really soft though and will not spring back as much, so it might cover it up. I personally use imperial wax on a RCBS pad and try to do what I can to keep the lube consistent. Don’t just rub it on with your fingers. And if you spray it, make sure it’s even.

It might not be a lube problem, but it’s something worth paying attention to.

 

[Straightshooter1]

If it's a lube issue wouldn't it also apply to annealed brass? What is the best way to apply lube? I'm really trying to learn from this

The "best way" really depends on the type of lube you're using and your sizing process (like there's a difference how many case one is processing at a time).

I process 100 - 150 cases at a time and use Imperial sizing wax and apply it with my fingers and here's how I do that . . .

As I stand at my co-ax press I'll lightly tap the surface of the lube/wax and rub a light amount of lube on my left thumb and two fingers then grab a case and rub the full case surface below the neck as I pull the handle of my press to size the case. Because I let the case being sized dwell in the full down position for ~5 seconds (dwell time for mitigating springback after sizing), it's plenty of time for my left hand to compete the lubing of the next case to be sized. After pulling up to extract the sized case, I replace the sized case with the newly lubed one and start the whole process over. My left hand does the lubing while my right operates the press and puts the sized case in a container. And I might add, I've never had a dented cased do to too much lube with this method.

I've used spay lubes in the past and had couple stuck cases, which led me to the Imperial sizing wax and haven't had a stuck case since.

 

[hornetguy]

I know I can consistently hit my 6" gong at 400 yards with my three primary hunting rigs. (6.5 Grendel, 30.06, and 7mm Rem)

That is excellent shooting.... I wish I had a range that long to get to try some longer range stuff. Most ranges I've been to are limited to 100 yds...

 

[gunsandgunsmithing]

I prefer a full shoulder width comparator (made using the chamber reamer) to ensure that the resized case will freely chamber. I’ve been “fooled” by the line contact inserts that don’t replicate the entire contact patch...

I agree with this. I and several others that do bbl work will gladly use the end cutoff from your bbl...run the same reamer in short,(way short) and provide it with chamber work.

It's the best imho for making a gage for bump or to the lands measurement..as new. Some smiths may charge a few bucks for this but some will do it at no extra charge when asked. Either is worthwhile, imo.

They call it a "bbl gizzy" or such. I've heard it called by different names.

 

[JFrank]

I agree with this. I and several others that do bbl work will gladly use the end cutoff from your bbl...run the same reamer in short,(way short) and provide it with chamber work.

It's the best imho for making a gage for bump or to the lands measurement..as new. Some smiths may charge a few bucks for this but some will do it at no extra charge when asked. Either is worthwhile, imo.

They call it a "bbl gizzy" or such. I've heard it called by different names.

Not everyone is using a custom barrel or has a gunsmith ready to make a gizzie, so now we’re back to square one deciding on how to get a accurate repeatable number with tools that cover the work area

I prefer a full shoulder width comparator (made using the chamber reamer) to ensure that the resized case will freely chamber. I’ve been “fooled” by the line contact inserts that don’t replicate the entire contact patch...

im not sure how your getting fooled using a sharpe edge datum comparator, care to expand ?

 

[rwj]

im not sure how your getting fooled using a sharpe edge datum comparator, care to expand ?

The case shoulder angle and/or radius at the neck/shoulder junction of the resizing die didn’t match that of the chamber. So when only measuring the distance to the comparator datum indicated the case was properly resized, there was actually still interference at other location(s) which wasn’t detected until trying to chamber a round.

 

[JFrank]

Ok, and not being argumentative just “talking around the campfire” we now you have a gizzie that matches the chamber and a die that isn’t quite perfect. Either way the die needed to adjust down a bit to set enough clearance for rounds to chamber freely ?

 

[rwj]

Ok, and not being argumentative just “talking around the campfire” we now you have a gizzie that matches the chamber and a die that isn’t quite perfect. Either way the die needed to adjust down a bit to set enough clearance for rounds to chamber freely ?

Yup! Only issue was that I had loaded over 100 rounds before the discrepancy was discovered. Some rounds required a lot more bolt torque to close than is desired!

 

[Ccrider]

Some of the guys on here that hold a bunch of records anneal. Some of the guys in here that hold a bunch of records do not anneal.

Bottom line is, figure out what works best for you. Whatever you do, be consistent.

 

[ben lurkin]

I have and have done so for 20+ years. I started out doing it with my 220 Swift cases because they were expensive and hard to come by at the time. I still do on my 30-378 that otherwise likes to split the case necks early. I honestly haven't ever done it for the purposes of precision.

 

[Dave M.]

Many shooters who anneal claim that they do it to extend brass life. I've been reloading for nearly 40 years. In that time, virtually all of my brass became "exhausted" when the primer pockets got loose. It was a very rare incidence when a neck split.

I started to anneal recently to see if I can detect a benefit for myself. I'm hoping I can see the difference on paper. If not, I've just wasted my time and money.

How is annealing expected to extend brass life?

I have 23+ firings on my 200 pieces of 6 Dasher brass (3071fps from 33.1g of RL-15) and I’ve not lost a single piece due to loose primer pockets. I’ve culled out about 20 pieces along the life of this batch for various reasons (continued flyers from a single piece, cracked necks or shoulders, even 3 for hairline cracks in the body). I anneal after every firing.

 

[Ccrider]

I have23+ firings on my 200 pieces of 6 Dasher brass (3071fps from 33.1g of RL-15) and I’ve not lost a single piece due to loose primer pockets. I’ve culled out about 20 pieces along the life of this batch for various reasons (continued flyers from a single piece, cracked necks or shoulders, even 3 for hairline cracks in the body). I anneal after every firing.

I bet you run your Dasher at “moderate”speed. Some of us with heavy feet don’t get near the mileage out of our Dasher primer pockets.

 

[Dave M.]

Here is the video:

1) mini potters wheel ( went up in price in 6 mos!) I'd offer $20 on one without the sticker.

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2) case holders ( i cut down to make them shorter). https://www.littlecrowgunworks.com/store1/308-Win-Brass-Annealing-Mandrel-p128369320
3) tight wrap ss spring ( i got one off a coleman cooler). Have extra if you cant find.
4) 2 cent drywall anchor plug that fits inside spring and on the shaft for the pottery wheel.
5) pair of thin spring loaded needle nose pliers.
6) pencil tip burner nozzle.

How can you possibly get consistent results when you anneal the first piece for 10 seconds, the 2nd abd 3rd pieces for 7 sec, and the 4th piece for 6 seconds??
You are fooling yourself if you think those pieces of brass are even remotely close to the same temp when removed from the holder. Also, I won’t even get into the distance the pencil torch is from the brass or the fact that the flame temperature is 100% dependent on the amount of fuel in the tank.