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While I am waiting for the correct dies to arrive.......

Guys I would love some opinions. I have my own sequence of events but I'd love to read yours.

Using a FL Bushing die and with case trim and outside neck turning a part of your brass prep.....what is the exact order of steps you would follow from start to finish when reloading fire formed brass from your rifle?

Depriming, tumbling and cleaning the cases, trimming, outside neck turning (or vice versa?), neck chamfering, primer pockets....leading up to priming, FL sizing and neck tension, powder and bullet seating.


Thanks.
 
What is the intended use of this ammo?

Hunting, bench rest, F-Class, etc.... Some of the things I do may not make any sense for you if you're shooting an AR.

Joe
 
Tumbling/cleaning (wipe off brass), Lube and FL resizing/depriming at the same time, primer pocket cleaning, measuring case length and trimming (if necessary) champfering (outside and inside of necks), brushing the insides of the necks to remove anything loose from previous steps), wiping off brass, put in tray for next reloading step (primers). That's what I do!

Alex
 
I am NOT a fan of neck turning "already fired" brass. Virgin brass has a sharp distinction at the neck / shoulder junction. It is more of a "radius" at that juncture after firing. I want my necks turned down to and very slightly below the neck shoulder junction. That is accomplished A LOT easier PRIOR to any firings on the brass. There is a whole "procedure" I use for virgin brass. However, your are asking about after firing. So here goes for after firing:
1.) Anneal
2.) Tumble brass
3.) Make sure the retrieved brass from the tumbler has the "dust" wiped off
4.) Full Length size
5.) Trim if necessary
6.) Lightly chamfer both inside and outside of case mouths>> you WILL have slight burrs on both sides. Get rid of those burrs
7.) Clean primer pockets
8.) Run them back thru a mandrel
9.) Brush out the inside of the necks with a "used / carboned-up" neck brush to REPLACE a slight film of carbon back into the necks>>>it is a GREAT lube and aides in smooth bullet seating.
10.) Prime, charge with powder and seat the bullets..
 
Clean necks with krazy cloth
Wipe off with towel
Anneal
Size
As needed trim
As needed but no sooner than after 2nd firing run neck trimmer to "clean up" those pieces of brass that just don't feel perfect when seating.
Clean primer pockets
Prime
Charge
Seat
Shoot
Repeat

I've found nothing good can happen with brass in a tumbler so I don't ever tumble my brass.

Edit - should clarify the neck turning clean up...all brass is turned new, some require a clean up and others don't.
 
Last edited:
What is the intended use of this ammo?

Hunting, bench rest, F-Class, etc.... Some of the things I do may not make any sense for you if you're shooting an AR.

Joe

Bolt action 6.5 Creedmoor Ruger Precision Rifle. I use same for long distance precision shooting and target shooting and I am going for the most consistently accurate ammo I can make. To load as good or better than factory match offerings. I have been shooting this discipline for a few years having started on a .308.
 
shootdots said:
7.) Clean primer pockets
8.) Run them back thru a mandrel

Can you please explain the mandrel? Yes I always chamfer in and out after trimming and inspect cases when not trimming....usually a light inside chamfer to help the bullet at seating. Interesting about you not neck turning fired brass. I'll keep that in mind.

I'd love to hear your procedure for virgin brass also. That will be helpful. Thanks.

I see that so far you guys are not so much about the neck turning. Doesn't it really help with a bushing type die to uniform the case neck thickness?
 
Can you please explain the mandrel? Yes I always chamfer in and out after trimming and inspect cases when not trimming....usually a light inside chamfer to help the bullet at seating. Interesting about you not neck turning fired brass. I'll keep that in mind.

I'd love to hear your procedure for virgin brass also. That will be helpful. Thanks.

I see that so far you guys are not so much about the neck turning. Doesn't it really help with a bushing type die to uniform the case neck thickness?
That depends on the gun. Also if you have a tight neck where it has to be done. Personally I like tight necks and turned brass. If the brass is thicker on one side then the other the bullet cannot be concentric. I shoot 1000 yard BR and use all tight necks. I am looking for the best accuracy I can get. Matt
 
I say that if your barrel will fit and fire the brass then you dont have to turn necks.

Sure you can make then more consistent but you also cause them to be worked that much more as well.
 
Can you please explain the mandrel? Yes I always chamfer in and out after trimming and inspect cases when not trimming....usually a light inside chamfer to help the bullet at seating. Interesting about you not neck turning fired brass. I'll keep that in mind.

I'd love to hear your procedure for virgin brass also. That will be helpful. Thanks.

I see that so far you guys are not so much about the neck turning. Doesn't it really help with a bushing type die to uniform the case neck thickness?
If you are going to turn your necks, you will need an expander mandrel. Look at Sinclair International part#749-011-715XZ for the Expander Dies and in your case you will need expander mandrel 749-001-179SZ. If you intend to turn necks (recommended) look at the Sinclair NeckTurning Tool Kit #749-010-347SZ. I also recommend a CARBIDE turning mandrel. Before you go to turning necks, I would suggest you get with someone who is adept at it and LEARN first>>>then proceed to make a purchase. There are others that are excellent besides the Sinclair... They boil down to personal preference..

As far as my method of prepping virgin brass, I just wrote it out on another thread late last week. Rather than writing it all out again, it is on one of the very recent threads. You should be able to easily find it..
 
Okay cool, will do.....thanks.

The outside neck turner I have is the Forster attachment for their case trimmer and
I have 1 each mandrels for 6.5 Creedmoor and .308. The Forster setup I know is not high end. My digital thickness gauge is though....a Kroeplin......pretty expensive unit. :)

I'll go look at that Sinclair. Thank you.
 

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