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which stock to buy, easy to put in 700 short action

i have a fairly mint remington PSS 308. i think it is an black hs precision stock. parkerized green 24" barrel, (2 or 3 groove) i had a gunsmith bed the action, glue the rail down, and thread the barrel and he mentioned that the action was made "back when remington made a good rifle"

it shot about the same before and after but at least i could put a brake on it now.

by the way, i posted about the gun ie. which barrel to get, 6mm or 6.5 which i have sort of figured out so really asking about stock now. i've also cross posted it on another forum.

,,, my barrel is looking a little rough in the throat area plus the throat is so deep it is hard to reload for.

my question. when did remington supposedly stop making good rifles, is this a fair statement, ie, that the older 700 actions are better than the newer actions? obviously in this case it is the short action model 700.

my thought was to just use my existing rifle to get a easier recoiling 1200 yd gun for my kids, for a low budget and doing it myself so it wouldn't take that long.

and if the actions are nicer in some way, do i need to bother with the truing/squaring up the bolt face stuff?

i was going to put one of those criterion remage barrels in either 6mm or 6.5 on it cause i can do it myself

but i figure why not drop it into a nice "Prs" style stock. (like xlr type with adjustable cheek/LOP)

let's say i am a handy guy but have never switched out stocks before. would it be feasable to do it myself? are there fairly easy affordable stocks that don't need bedding?

now, i am not opposed to having a gunsmith do it but no offense to any gunsmiths but it always turns into a 4-6 month turn around it seems like.

my last question, is this rifle in any way somewhat desirable to a collector? should i dismantle it/turn it in to something else?

thanks, kevin
 
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The best answer on a stock is get to a match somewhere and get behind various guns and figure out what you like. Some guys live chassis stocks others prefer quality built composite stock made by McMillian or Manners. In short there is no best stock for anyone you just have to figure out what you like and fits your shooting style.

As far as your older Remington being desirable to a collector well that went out the window when your gunsmith threaded your barrel.

Put a new barrel on it, drop it in a stock of your choice and go have some fun shooting it.
 
Everybody has an opinion about remington and it is very popular to bash remington. Remington 700s are like any other mass produced rifle--they aren't a custom. So the bolt fits looser in the boltway, the boltways isn't perfect from end to end, and the threads lugs etc aren't as perfect. But most of these things don't have a significant effect on accuracy. Accuracy is 99% in the barrel.

Occasionally a remington with a defect shows up. There are more Remington 700s out there than any other rifle by an order of magnitude. So it makes sense you'll find a few errors. Frankly, I've found more problems per manufactured item in customs that may have had only a few hundred made.

I tune up a lot of remingtons and my take on the current production is that there is a lot of difference between the actions that are put on the blow out basic rifles sold in box stores and the actions sold action only. Modern equipment is generally making actions more accurate. But like people, you have to look at the individual.

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The best answer on a stock is get to a match somewhere and get behind various guns and figure out what you like. Some guys live chassis stocks others prefer quality built composite stock made by McMillian or Manners. In short there is no best stock for anyone you just have to figure out what you like and fits your shooting style.

^^^ This. Get behind as many different stocks as you can. You'll figure out pretty quick what fits you best and what doesn't.
 
When kids are going to be shooting an optic equipped rifle that is primarily shot by an adult, I like lop adjustable stocks. I have a Blackhawk axiom on my Rem 700 sa. Has a recoil reduction and lop and cheek option. 6 years of winter coyote hunting, in and out of trucks, no zero shift.
 
HS Precision stocks with the aluminum internal bedding block and chassis never needed bedding.

The new laminated Stockys stocks from Revolution with the aluminum block don't need bedding either.
 
I would suggest you leave the rifle you have alone, and buy an action from Buds and build a rifle for f class. You really will save money on the end if you build from scratch.
 
HS Precision stocks with the aluminum internal bedding block and chassis never needed bedding.

The new laminated Stockys stocks from Revolution with the aluminum block don't need bedding either.

well, he did something to it. it is in the hs precision stock , not a chassis so i thought he bedded it.
 
HS Precision stocks with the aluminum internal bedding block and chassis never needed bedding.

The new laminated Stockys stocks from Revolution with the aluminum block don't need bedding either.

Why would you not at least skim bed it? I've skim bedded several stocks with aluminum bedding blocks and found I would have only had a few points of contact vs full bedded contact by doing this. It's actually pretty obvious as you can see the aluminum through the bedding and little would really be making contact. Here's an image similar to what I see. This is not my photo or bedding job. It's obvious how little contact the block had with the action. Plus, I can get the recoil lug bedded and tight when I do this too. Just my opinion though.
bedding block.jpg
 
They aren't supposed to have contact. Because they don't need it. It's a v block. That's my opinion. My best rifle has an aluminum v block is not bedded and shoots better than my fiberglass bedded rifle stock that is exactly the same.
 
If this is a rifle that only gets shot at the range, I would definitely put it in a chassis system.

And the best bang for your buck is the ORYX chassis. $ 400 + a $50 AICS pattern magazine and you have a solid shooting platform !!!
 
In my opinion, bedding blocks would be great if they and the action were perfectly inline and perpendicular to each other. Never gonna happen in a mass production setting. I have skim bedded all my stocks with bedding blocks and it has worked great and tightened up groups in every instance. I would not even consider starting load work without bedding first. Nothing to be lost and everything to be gained. A win, win in my book. Carry on!! :D:D

Paul
 
In my opinion, bedding blocks would be great if they and the action were perfectly inline and perpendicular to each other.

Please explain. The bedding block designs that are popular these days (including the one used by John Whidden) are designed to be self centering. The rest of the system is floated. I am not sure which bedding block you are using but I can assure you that aluminum can be machined flat and square and so can actions.

If I had an action that was crooked I would not use it. I know I can buy a bedding block that is straight. Most of the good bedding blocks being sold today actually engineer around variations in the surface of the action.
 
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Choate is a low cost stock with V-block, built in forend rail, adjustable length via spacers, and several different height cheek rests. I tried bedding a couple and never found the V contacts did not fit properly, nor any change in groups.Only potential drawback is it is heavy. It shoots very well as a Ftr stock with a bipod.

Kinetic Research Bravo is a bit of a hybrid, about 2/3 chassis and 1/3 standard stock. It has a removable cover to either have a flat butt and hook, or a slightly tapered butt. I've tried chassis to standard styles and like this the best.

Most importantly, as noted the design and style must fit you and your shooting style. No perfect do-it-all. Many great options these days.
 
I like the Bell & Carlson Remington target/varmint stock. You can order it with a M5 cutout for bottom metal. and has Adj cheek piece with Jesus clip for return to battery.
you can get for LA 700, but with BDL bottom only! They have a full length Alum bedding block. from front sling swivel thru the wrist of the stock. Very stiff
 
@boltfluter I do agree with you, however Kyle at XLR is a hell of a machinist and his inlets are pretty close to perfect. He is in a league of his own. I ran XLR carbons with Bighorns and he had different inlets for the different tang thicknesses, different inlets for straight or swept bolt handles, different inlets for R700 and for clones. My MPA's are V-Block cookie cutter and don't fit great. They work well enough for my accuracy requirements, but I have thought about bedding them for improvement.

For the OP, try before you buy! Go to a match and get behind them. You may hate what you thought you would love and vice-versa.
 
Please explain. The bedding block designs that are popular these days (including the one used by John Whidden) are designed to be self centering. The rest of the system is floated. I am not sure which bedding block you are using but I can assure you that aluminum can be machined flat and square and so can actions.

If I had an action that was crooked I would not use it. I know I can buy a bedding block that is straight. Most of the good bedding blocks being sold today actually engineer around variations in the surface of the action.

Urban,

All I am saying is, your average Remington 700 is not straight and neither are most bedding blocks. Whether an action or bedding block, metal moves when it is machined. Just a fact of life, but easily overcome with a little bedding compound and some ingenuity. :D:D

Paul
 

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