Which metal

[birddog1]

I am wanting to build a "presentation grade" rifle off of an old 700 action. Want to get a deep gloss blue finish. Is chrome moly the material I should use for the barrel, If so what is the best chrome moly barrel maker.

 

[fe1]

Take your pick of the top barrel makers, Kreiger, Bartlien,Brux.

 

[firearmdoc1]

Your finish will be a result of the quality of polish on the barrel. Any chrome moly barrel will work for what you're trying to do.
Just my opinion, but a quality rust blue finish looks much better than any hot blue job.

 

[Preacher]

Plus 1 for what doc said, and I've been hot tank blueing for 40 years....

 

[birddog1]

Thanks to all for their input. Going to buy a #4 Brux in chrome moly high polish, I want a deep luster blue. Custom walnut stock .270 cal with a brake. Can't wait to shoot it
Thanks to all
Mike

 

[p-man]

Mike, I think you missed the point from some experienced advisors - the final polish and finish of your rifle will be the gunsmith (artist I say with all respect) who does the blueing - do not waste your money and time asking the barrel maker to do other than his standard finish - by the time you unpackage it and have it rebarreled, and send it to the blueing shop it will have all kinds of handling marks and scratches that will need to be polished out - the polish is called a 'final' polish for a reasons; also on a high polish blue, you will want your receiver and barrel to be polished at the the same time to the same "grit" level so that they match when blued. Hope this makes sense - I think you will pay extra for a wasted step in the process as you're pursuing it.

 

[X Ring Accuracy]

Your gunsmith should be able to "polish" the action, lug, barrel, once the machining work is done. If he can't, pick another smith. The point is when the parts are in a lathe, then is the time to do it. I know of polishing wheels, etc. We do all of our polishing on a barrel, action, etc in a lathe. Makes for a better product. Just our .02

 

[p-man]

XRing, are you saying that you recommend having you to "high" polish his barreled action even if he will have someone else do the blueing? When he gets the final product and the finish has flaws or imperfections, who makes it good? You or the blueing service? According to your website, you only do cerakote. He'll be hard pressed to find a blueing service that will guarantee a high polish finish when someone else does the metal prep.

 

[TRECustom]

Doc, I've only rust-blued a couple of actions and some small parts, but they came out a deep black, semi gloss. I had a high polish on the actions and parts, but the rust blue dulled them down some. A couple of questions: Can a deep blue, high gloss finish be done with rust bluing, and is it as durable as hot tank blue? I have a S&W mod 28 that needs refinishing, and would like to do it myself, but don't want it to come out black. Semi-gloss (blue) would be perfect though.

Thanks Doc.

Apologies for horning in on your thread, Birddog1.

Tom

 

[shortgrass]

Your gunsmith should be able to "polish" the action, lug, barrel, once the machining work is done. If he can't, pick another smith. The point is when the parts are in a lathe, then is the time to do it. I know of polishing wheels, etc. We do all of our polishing on a barrel, action, etc in a lathe. Makes for a better product. Just our .02

How would you polish a flat bottomed receiver in the lathe? Not to jump in Docs' way here, but, I've never seen a "high gloss" slow rust blue. I guess that doesn't mean it doesn't exist. The 'subdued' look is just the nature of the beast, from what know about it. I've slow rust blued for 20 years and have tried many different preps and several different formulas. Polish it out to 400-600 grit and give it a dip in a hot , caustic tank, and it might blind ya'!

 

[firearmdoc1]

Tre,
It is the nature of the beast with rust blue that you will not normally be able to obtain I high gloss finish. This is because you have to card the parts off between coats of blueing solution and boiling. I believe some continental gun makers may be able to do something like that, but I have no idea how they do it.

As far as durability goes, rust blue is way more durable than hot bluing ever will be.

As for the S&W 28, rust blue and hot blue will probably not give you the desired results. If you want a blue finish like an older Colt or S&W, you will want to have it charcoal blued, also known as carbona bluing. As with an finish work, final polish is critical to the end result. For charcoal bluing contact Turnbull Mfg Co at 585-657-6338 or www.turnbullmfg.com.

Hope this answers your questions.