Which MB for threaded bbl that doesn't require timing?

[qbert]

I have a couple of barrels that are threaded 5/8x24 and I want to put muzzle breaks on them when I'm not running a suppressor. Are there any decent brakes I can install myself that doesn't require timing the brake? Maybe with shims or set screws that won't look hideous?

Thanks!

 

[jonbearman]

A harrels radial brake needs no timing.

 

[bugman]

Vais is another one to consider. If you are shooting on your belly, these will kick up a lot of debris due to the exhaust design,

 

[wwbrown]

Keep in mind that most of the brakes out there will require a lathe to install as you need to bore the inside of the brake to the barrel diameter plus 0.01" clearance on each side.

Most are not bored out at the factory because boring them as a part of the install "insures" concentricity.

wade

 

[qbert]

Thanks for the replies. I forgot to mention that I do a lot of prone shooting in the desert, so I'd prefer to have a closed-bottom design. I hate getting dusted out after each shot. I didn't know about needing to bore out the inside. Hopefully there are some good turnkey designs out there.

 

[masterblaster1]

Claymore brake, just tried one today on my Hog Hunter, not as good as the ported brakes but cuts half the recoil and sends gas and noise forward.

 

[Preacher]

Any brake needs to be bored out to .020 OVER bullet diameter for the best accuracy..
Some folks just drill them out with a HSS drill.
I prefer to use a dedicated reamer...
John 11/87 on this site makes as good of a brake as anyone can....

 

[Nomad47]

Qbert, if I understand your question and subsequent comment, you want a brake without ports on the bottom because you shoot prone. But you don't want to have to time the brake. That means you would have to look for a clamp-on style, as the reason for timing is to make sure the ports don't end up on the bottom.

Edit: I just read your first post again. Yes, you could use shims to "time" a brake. I bought shims at McMaster-Carr that are 5/8"ID & 1" OD so I can adjust my brakes similar to what a tuner does. Their shims are .001" to more that .020". (- I stopped buying at .020".)

 

[qbert]

Bill, that's exactly what I want. I'd also prefer a brake that is already suitable for the caliber that will be going through it (I don't have a lathe or drill press and I'd rather not pay to have the bore reamed out).

I want to either get: a) one for my 6.5x47 and one for my .308 or b) one that can be used on both rifles (I have thread protectors for both that I can use when the muzzle brake isn't on). It doesn't need to be super-effective on the 6.5 because the recoil is mild on that one. I mainly care about taming the .308 so I can see hits as they happen.

Easy on/off is important to me because I like to clean/keep carbon off my crown and I do use a sound suppressor (direct thread, not one that uses a dedicated flash hider or brake) from time to time.

 

[Ggmac]

You better bore it more than .001 or you WILL have problems , usual is what Preacher said .020

 

[pikespeakgoat]

Might want to look at a "peel" washer for the timing issues, Thunderbeast carries them.

 

[fdshuster]

My gunsmith, doing a brake for me now, also said .020" clearance is needed.

A friend recently came over to use my barrel vice to hold his barreled receiver while he installed a side discharge brake. He was using the peel washers, as instructed by the maker, and it was an easy and quick installation with the flat top surface perfectly level.