Which Loctite for gunsmithing uses?

[243winxb]

In years past , it was Blue, Green, Red. Red needing 500 degrees heat to unlock.

Today, we have these for guns.

http://m.loctiteproducts.com/browse_products.pl/10/15

I shot indoor pistol with a Loctite salesman back in the 70s. Free samples.

 

[jepp2]

Anyone have experience with Vibra-Tite VC3? It was on the scope base screws on a used rifle I purchased. Seemed to hold to keep from loosening but fastener easily removed.

https://www.vibra-tite.com/threadlo...rZVKCx9Kn6cNEzsjtZ0Eg-qcJx2jwZBIaAqCUEALw_wcB

 

[Kracken McGraw]

My long time gunsmith was adamant that I use NO loctite on my scope base screws. He said to tighten them correctly and no issues,

My gunsmith says the same. I use a drop of gun oil and tourque them down.

 

[dcali]

I think a lot of the reason people want to use loctite on scope bases comes from screws that don’t have a good hex or torx head. It’s hard to torque a slotted screw properly. A drop of oil and a solid torque has always worked for me. The next step up would be to glue them on, but that’s usually overkill.

 

[jk80]

I've used the purple loctite for years on all firearms and it's worked well. I used a lot of loctite in my trade working construction and have always considered red loctite as permanent. Even with heat you risk a good chance of galling threads. Ymmv.

 

[Dusty Stevens]

WOW,what did he use the red ? I have been using the wifes finger nail polish hardener ,seems to work well and Easley breaks loose. What do you use if you don't mind me asking?

Yes it was red.
I use the tried and true method of proper torque. I do go thru a few bottles of loctite a year on harleys but cant think of a single thing on a gun that needs it

 

[dsinfour]

In the 70's my brother worked at Loctite for several years.. I use blue only on firearms and scopes.. Don't ever use red on firearms or you will have to heat to 700 degrees to get it or use a big hammer thus destroying it..

 

[243winxb]

Red 271 keeps the Ruger MK1 5.5" bull barrel type, front sight screw from vibrating loose. The method of applying torque with a screwdriver, to the screw, while vibrating it with a hammer , didnt hold.

There was a machinist, a Wanna Be gunsmith at club. Used a Locktite product to affix a target front sight to a GI 1911 45. The sight became airborne on the 2nd shot.

 

[AJC]

Used a lot of blue and pink on a lot of stuff from guns to motorcycles. Only direction I have ever been given is to completely read the directions and use the correct stuff as directed. Never gave me any issues yet.

 

[Outrider27]

Can't think of anything on a firearm where you would want to use red (271/277) Loctite, unless you want to install a barrel that you are sure will never be removed. As for temperature to soften Loctite to make removal easier, 500-700 degrees F will certainly do it, but the fun starts at 400F, so you don't usually have to go that high.

One area where the use of Loctite (222 or 242) is useful is attaching scope bases or rails to Ruger 1022 receivers, which are aluminum and whose threads are, unfortunately, easily stripped if one goes for what would seem to be an adequate torque. Just don't use much Loctite, and only on the screw....

 

[msinc]

My long time gunsmith was adamant that I use NO loctite on my scope base screws. He said to tighten them correctly and no issues,

Exactly right.

Okay....I'll nibble....exactly why do you not want to use any thread locker on scope base screws????

 

[Dusty Stevens]

Okay....I'll nibble....exactly why do you not want to use any thread locker on scope base screws????

Corrosion, breaking screws later, plus when it seeps down into the barrel threads its nothing but trouble.

 

[muleman69]

Yes it was red.
I use the tried and true method of proper torque. I do go thru a few bottles of loctite a year on harleys but cant think of a single thing on a gun that needs it

Have you ever tried never

Corrosion, breaking screws later, plus when it seeps down into the barrel threads its nothing but trouble.

I always wondered if a tiny bit of never seize would work? I remember having trouble with sprocket segment bolts coming loose on a dozer and either falling out or brakeing off. We used every locktite on the planet and it didn't seem to do much good. I hired a different mechanic and he said to use never seize as it will allow bolts to tighten down and will not back out, It's working to this day. Just thinking out loud?

 

[243winxb]

The Ithaca pump slug guns have a "permanently" affixed slug barrel, using Red Locktite. It could be removed with 500 degree heat.

Should be ok in a blind holes.

A little Locktite between the receiver and scope base seem to make a better fit..

Would some gunsmiths hand lap the base to better fit a receiver?

 

[dcali]

Have you ever tried never

I always wondered if a tiny bit of never seize would work? I remember having trouble with sprocket segment bolts coming loose on a dozer and either falling out or brakeing off. We used every locktite on the planet and it didn't seem to do much good. I hired a different mechanic and he said to use never seize as it will allow bolts to tighten down and will not back out, It's working to this day. Just thinking out loud?

Any lube on the threads will increase the preload on the screw, sometimes dramatically. That’s why it’s generally best to use clean, lubricated threads torqued as high as you can without breaking anything. Sometimes you need a locking feature of some sort (pellets, loctite, etc), but often just a good solid torque on clean lubricated threads does the job.

 

[msinc]

The Ithaca pump slug guns have a "permanently" affixed slug barrel, using Red Locktite. It could be removed with 500 degree heat.

Should be ok in a blind holes.

A little Locktite between the receiver and scope base seem to make a better fit..

Would some gunsmiths hand lap the base to better fit a receiver?

I asked the question about not using it because I apparently am odd man out on this one...but, then again I am odd man out on a lot of things and that works just fine for me.
I have always used red Loctite on scope bases. I have not had the problem of it getting in the action, I use the proper amount. I look at it this way, I never need/want a scope base to move...ever. In fact, if every action on this earth came with either Leupold dual dovetails or mil-spec rails milled right on that would suit me just fine.
If I need bases for another gun I just buy more. The only time I have had to remove them was the time I sold one and the buyer asked to have the scope bases removed. I heat a sacrificial driver red hot and hold it on the screw, straight slot, Allen, Torx, it don't matter just get it glowing and hold it there in good contact and the screw will turn loose. If not on the first try it will on the second, the point is it's there until me and Mr. Mapp gas say otherwise. I switch to an unheated good driver to remove the screw after it has been heated to release.
In answer to the hand lapping of bases to better fit the receiver, yep...been there, done that. I find it works just as well to rough up the surfaces where they meet and use some glass bedding. Loctite needs pressure to set, the more the better. I have used it alone between the receiver and base and it worked fine. Not real sure it did anything, I mean you can install the base bone dry, screws and all and it can/will hold and not move.
Maybe it's all just insurance and peace of mind, but I have had no problems using it at all.

 

[dsinfour]

Its a free world to use Loctite or none.. Its like the glass is half empty or half full everyone will look at differently... Oh well..Later

 

[Oldeadeye]

Jepp2 mentioned in his post above about using Vibra Tite VC3. It is a mil-spec thread locker. It’s also reusable. You apply it to the threads and let it “cure”. It only takes a few minutes. It cures to a rubber like consistency. You can install and remove the fastener several times before having to apply new material. What I like is that it doesn’t effect torque value.

 

[Luisyamaha]

I've used the red Loc-tite under the scope bases, without getting any on the screws, without any ill effects. Kinda like bedding the bases. Definitely would not move. Come off easily enough with a little heat or a solid whack from a hammer. The Loc-tite residue came off, I think, with acetone. Or heat. Or both. In any case it was not that big a deal.

Luisyamaha

 

[Drop Port]

Clear finger nail polish works good. Pick your color.

For picking up guys?