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which floating reamer holder to purchase

If 7 to 9 thou is not uncommon how would you ever chamber through the headstock? How do you make up for that difference? The only barrels I ever screwed up was when I used a floating reamer holder.

I have been chambering at the tailstock with my old lath and did pretty good pushing with a dead center. Wanted to increase my precision thinking chambering from the headstock would be the way to go. What are folks doing to get that those tolerances in their equipment?

Grizzly said they will take the tailstock and machine it down so I guess I'll have to see what comes back.
 
As I understand it tailstocks come from the factory high for two reasons, they wear lower over time and the sag some when you put a large diameter work piece on them.

Lgs

You could make something to fit on your compound to push you reamer. If made on your lathe with the headstock it should be dead nuts.

Hal
 
My pusher is similar to a Bald Eagle. The one piece fits in the tailstock. It is flat. It doesn't make any difference if your Tail stock is indicated. It is just pushing, not guiding your reamer. If you prebored your reamer will follow the reamed hole.
If you have done much machine work at all you will understand what I am doing.

wswly8.jpg
 
No, just in the chuck. The flat pushing on the radius of the back of the reamer holder is not going to push the reamer away.
 
Hey Mister Butch, your pusher and the logic behind it causes me to ask you this question. Im using a Bald Eagle "clone" which Im thinking about modifying. Lets say the Bald Eagle and the many versions of it could benifit from what Im going to ask you. Lets modify the "ball and socket" feature of this reamer holder;

I want to take the body and mill the socket "FLAT" so the snout of the MT floats in "any" direction without loading to one side. It should represent what your doing only in "reverse".........?

You just keep making your contributions to this industry, it makes a difference !
 
StraightPipes said:
Hey Mister Butch, your pusher and the logic behind it causes me to ask you this question. Im using a Bald Eagle "clone" which Im thinking about modifying. Lets say the Bald Eagle and the many versions of it could benifit from what Im going to ask you. Lets modify the "ball and socket" feature of this reamer holder;

I want to take the body and mill the socket "FLAT" so the snout of the MT floats in "any" direction without loading to one side. It should represent what your doing only in "reverse".........?

You just keep making your contributions to this industry, it makes a difference !


Sounds good to me.
 
What you are saying, you will do what Butch does in reverse? If that is true, and your tail stock is out of center it will push out of center. With the one butch made the single point it pushes from is in the center of the reamer and the flat is on the tail stock. What about press fit a ball bearing in the reamer holder and face off the pusher flat?…… jim
 
JIM, that would be just the oppisite of the holders I make. I tried the ball bearing & I didn't care for it that much...maybe I didn't give it much time to get use to though..good idea though.
 
I see the reasoning behind what Butch's idea and it makes sense to me anyway. It allows for the misalignment of the tail stock, or am i all wet ? A flat pushing a ball will always still push to the center?……… jim
 
Thats what i'm getting at, backwards is a point pushing a flat and it would push off center if the tails stock is off center…….. jim
 
johara, possibly. Lets get away from "point". Butch prebores, so the reamer is allowed to follow the prebore without influence. Im assuming Butches reamer holder isnt pointed, but rounded. It was built to negate a tailstock misalignment. If it slips around on the flat until it finds its center, BINGO.

Im asking if this arrangment would still "slip" around and find its center if it were built in reverse? It will slip either way, Yes? No argument, I will try everything or anything to improve my chamber reaming. I could very well be building the best chamber already.
 
TRECustom said:
Finished the chamber late last night. I don't know how to do one better. Even with the borescope, the chamber walls look like they are polished. In the lathe, the bolt closed on the go-gage + .0015". Made up in the vise to 100 ft/lbs, it will almost close on the go-gage, and takes factory ammo smoothly.

Other than having to stand up, and having to relocate my dial indicator to clear the reamer holder handle, I had no problems at all. I still can't see ever going back to the tailstock mounted holder. This one just has too many advantages.

Rockjag4, this is one of my best investments. Thanks, Tom
 

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