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which floating reamer holder to purchase

I have a question. IF the tailstock is properly aligned with the chuck and you have done a good job of indicating the barrel, what is the need for a floating holder? How does it keep the center lines aligned if they're not initally indicated true? If the back end of the reamer is floating won't it float out of alignment just as easily as it floats into alignment? I don't see a bushing 5 or 6 inches away keeping anything in line. Seems to me the only way to assure reamer/bore alignment is to keep the headstock and tailstock aligned. I'm not trying to be an a$$hole here, but would like some reasonable discussion on why a floating reamer holder.
 
A F.R.H. WILL FOLLOW AN OFF- CONCENTRIC BORE WHERE MOST OTHER HOLDERS WILL NOT. A F.R.H. IS DESIGNED TO ALLOW FREE MIVEMENT OF A FLOATING REAMER IN 3 DIRECTIONS,-VERTICAL,-HORIZONTAL,-& ANGULAR, AS REQUIRED FOR PROPER PERFORMANCE OF ANY REAMER..I HOPE THIS INFO HELPS YOU..ROCKJAG
 
clowdis said:
I have a question. IF the tailstock is properly aligned with the chuck and you have done a good job of indicating the barrel, what is the need for a floating holder? How does it keep the center lines aligned if they're not initally indicated true? If the back end of the reamer is floating won't it float out of alignment just as easily as it floats into alignment? I don't see a bushing 5 or 6 inches away keeping anything in line. Seems to me the only way to assure reamer/bore alignment is to keep the headstock and tailstock aligned. I'm not trying to be an a$$hole here, but would like some reasonable discussion on why a floating reamer holder.


I can't get my tailstock aligned perfectly with the headstock at this time. So I prebore and use a floater.

If they were aligned perfectly, I could use a dead center in the rear of the reamer.

Jim
 
clowdis, is your tailstock aligned at one point or 2 points. I'm saying both extended and retracted. I prebore and use a pusher that I made that is similar to the one pictured above.
 
Butch,
I consider my tailstock very accurate for what it is. It varies about .001 when extended about 2". Perfect? No. But I don't believe that you can take a floating reamer holder and get a chamber any closer with a floating reamer holder of any brand, especially without preboring. Allowing the rear of a reamer to float allows it to float any direction it chooses. There is noting other than the prebored hole to keep it from floating .005 or more in any direction.
 
clowdis said:
Butch,
I consider my tailstock very accurate for what it is. It varies about .001 when extended about 2". Perfect? No. But I don't believe that you can take a floating reamer holder and get a chamber any closer with a floating reamer holder of any brand, especially without preboring. Allowing the rear of a reamer to float allows it to float any direction it chooses. There is noting other than the prebored hole to keep it from floating .005 or more in any direction.

You would be a fool to ream without preboring.
 
"You would be a fool to ream without preboring."

Why? If everything is aligned as it should be why would I be a fool not to prebore? As I stated above I think it would be foolish to use a floating reamer holder without preboring and that preboring would probably, but not necessarily, help if you had a floating reamer holder. But I do not think it foolish to ream without preboring. I've tried both and I really don't see any difference. Please explain.
 
I started making a holder at school on the cnc. I think i might have a few of the morse taper pieces like the bald eagle at my dads house. their made out of 304ss
 
I think your answer above answered that question. If your tailstock has a .001 difference, how can it do the best job? I don't know about the various floaters as I just push my reamer with a flat surface tool in my tail stock. It does not influence the direction of the reamer. If you taper bore to the indicated groove at the throat, your reamer will follow a hole that is coaxial to the spindle bore.
 
After rereading an above post I think I have been a bit misleading about a tailstock having a runout of .001. I did not intend for anyone to believe that it is that accurate for the entire 5" that it extends. It is that accurate for the 1/2 inch or so that I use when reaming. I go in a certain amount, back the reamer off the same amount and then pull it out to clean and go back to where I stopped and continue reaming. That way I only use about .100 of the travel in the tailstock. But it will indicate within .001 for about .500 of travel. Do not want to be labelled as a BS machinist :(
 
NOW ACCEPTING ORDERS FOR MORSE TAPER #4 FLOATING REAMER HOLDERS, THAT YOU GUYS HAVE BEEN REQUESTING ME TO MAKE...AS ALWAYS THANKS FOR THE BUSINESS.
 
Just reading this with interest since my new Grizzly 16x40 gunsmith lathe is high in the tailstock by approx. .009. Waiting for Grizzly to see if they can help me as trying to scrape 9 thou. is a bit much...

So this section has been right in line with my ideas on how I am going to work around this problem.

One reply form Butch Lambert was especially interesting. Butch said he drove his reamer with a flat off his tailstock, after he had reamed the chamber.

Butch if it's not too much of a bother can you expound on this technique and do you think I might get away with it with a tailstock that far out. I,m thinking without a center it wouldn't really matter how far I was off.
 

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