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Which electronic scale for reloading

Looking for a nice accurate electronic scale for reloading. I once tried one of the hornady scales and it was horrible. Not repeatable at all. So I went back to my old redding beam scale, but would really like something accurate and fast for reloading especially my smaller calibers. What are you guys using?
Thanks,
John
 
I went from using RCBS chargmaster to the A&D FX 120, and it’s no comparison other than they both weigh things. A&D is a quality that is far above anything else I have used and greatly helped my 1000 yard scores.
 
My suggestions:
- for a portable = A&D EJ-123 Portable Scale <> hundredth / 0.02-gr scale
- for precision = A&D FX-120i <> hundredth / 0.02-gr scale
- high precision = A&D HR-100A <> thousandth / 0.002-gr scale

CE Products (a Gold site contributor here) has all 3 priced well, and also Autotrickler combo's:
https://ce-products.myshopify.com
They have a Black Friday Sale going on until Monday night (expand quote below).

***BLACK FRIDAY/CYBER MONDAY***
Starts Friday Nov 24th 12:30am- Ends Monday Nov 27 11:59pm

https://ce-products.myshopify.com/…/fx-120i-reloading-scale…

USE CODE: BFCM17

$10.00 off scale,
Free 100 Gram Calibration Weight
Free Programming,
$45.00 in savings
Applies to FX-120i,HR-100A, Autotrickler package and FX-120i Combo Package

Please Share! Stocked and ready to ship out
Questions please call 1-800-535-3751
 
Last edited:
Looking for a nice accurate electronic scale for reloading. I once tried one of the hornady scales and it was horrible. Not repeatable at all. So I went back to my old redding beam scale, but would really like something accurate and fast for reloading especially my smaller calibers. What are you guys using?
Thanks,
John
You and I had the same experience. The Hornady is just not accurate enough, especially when trickling up to a weight.
 
Oh it was horrible. I was using it when I was trying to develop a load for a little 218 bee I built. I nearly went crazy trying to figure out my accuracy issues, then realized the scales were junk. Once I went back to my old redding beam scales everything came together. That sounds like a good deal on those A&D scales, but I just can't justify that for scales at the moment.
 
I started with a Lyman 55 powder dispenser, then a Niel Jones conversion, then a Harrell's BR dispenser. They all throw in approximately the same accuracy range, & all not as good as I would like.

I have a Pact scale (0.1 gr resolution), a RCBS Chargemaster (0.1gr resolution), A Gempro 300 (0.02gr resolution), and now a A&D Fx120i with the Autothrow and Autotrickler (0.02 gr resolution).

The OP wanted accurate and fast.

The A&D package is the fastest, most accurate and most expensive. Drops a load in 10-15 seconds. $950-$1000 I recently got it, I only wish it was available 40 years ago. It is my "go to" scale now. The scale alone is $500 This is a laboratory grade " force balance" type of scale, not a strain gage scale.

The Chargemaster is accurate to 0.1 gr, and is slower, takes 30 or more seconds, and overthrows or underthrows occasionally. You must wait for the "beep" at the end to see if it is in range. It is medium priced. Midway has them at $350 but there is a RCBS $100 rebate, so say $250. I still use it when I am reloading at the range. Tuning the scale and feed tube will help.

DO NOT confuse the Gempro resolution performance with the A&D. The Gempro will drift a lot, and the A&D is ROCK STEADY. The Gempro is $150. You cannot buy A&D performance for $150

The Pact is typical of the strain gage style scales in the $30 to $100 range.

So the low cost scale is faster than your Beam scale, perhaps a different brand would work better. The GemPro will take a lot of care to account for the drift. The next step up is the Chargemaster, which I would recommend to you if you feel that accuracy in the .1 range is OK for your purposes. If you need better, then the A&D is the answer.

Note:
I always turn on my Pact or Chargemaster and let it warm up for 15 to 30 min to help stabilize the readings and prevent drift while measuring. The A&D also says let it run for 15-30 min, but It seems to be stable right away.

As to comments on a lot of threads that you can't get near fluorescent lights, cell phones, and electronics, I have an overhead 2 bulb 8 foot fluorescent fixture immediately above my reloading bench, another next to it and another 5 feet behind me, and my cell phone is in my pocket when I load, and the A&D and the Chargemaster and the Pact all work fine. I have a ferrite choke on the power supply to the Pact and the Chargemaster, but NOT on the A&D which is, as I said rock stable.

I hope this information will help you in your choice of scale.

ps CE and Autotrickler are great companies to deal with, and the Autothrower is the best thing since sliced bread.
 
Thank you guys very much. Would that EJ-123 be better than the rcbs charge master? I could probably afford one of them.
 
DO NOT confuse the Gempro resolution performance with the A&D. The Gempro will drift a lot, and the A&D is ROCK STEADY. The Gempro is $150. You cannot buy A&D performance .......

No question!!!!!!! I bought the GEMPRO several month ago because everyone was ranting and raving about how great it was. Bought one to have in addition to two RCBS scales and I'd carefully set them up to avoid and protect any electronic scale from electronic and natural interference from lighting, air movement, etc. From day one, that GEMPRO drifted like no other I'd ever seen. I tried all sorts of things including letting it warm up (forever) enclosing it, hooking it up to it's own independent surge protector, etc, blah, blah blah. What a POS!!! Sold it to someone who said he was aware of its problems and knew how to fix it. By then, I was about ready to use it for target practice so I sold it to him. Now what I'm hearing lately is that people who've been using the RCBS auto model have gone to the new Hornady Scale which they believe is the newest model that is short of spending the money on an A&D 120i which is still the best available. But like powerbrake says, don't confuse any scale with an AD120. It's really the best to buy if you can afford one.

Alex
 
. . . That sounds like a good deal on those A&D scales, but I just can't justify that for scales at the moment.
Understandable. But no other scale is likely to be a true upgrade from where you are.

So my advice is to wait until you can justify that new scale.
 
Gotcha! My old redding beam scales have always done well, and my redding br powder thrower really is consistent especially with smaller powder. Probably like anything else there is always going to be something better.
Thanks for everyone's feedback!
 
Went from Hornady Auto scale to Chargemaster which was a big improvement IME.. Then went to AnD FX120i coupled with Adams Auto Trickler and my search for an accurate and fast powder throwing system was over.. Highly recommend.

Cheers Rushty
 
I've had several scales over the last year. I had 2 different GemPro 300s. Actually, not bad for the money. About 98% of the time it would weight to within +/- .02 grains. In the test below, I alternated between 2 weights and didn't zero in between weighings. The second scale seemed ok, the first one needed the scale re-zeroed/tared each weighing to be accurate. In the 1st section (25 weighings each), most of the readings were in the middle. In the 2nd (75 weighings each) still, most favored the middle reading. In the 3rd with the first scale, still most hit the middle. The 3rd column was a repeat of the 1st column. I did see from time to time the reading jump to +/- .04 but maybe 2% of the time. If the weight was set onto the platform too hard, the reading would be farther off. Had to set them down like a feather. I tried the power adapter and running off batteries. Could not see a difference.

GMPRO300.jpg

I got tired of messing around and took the plunge for an FX-300i (exactly the same scale as the FX120i except for capacity. It gave me fits for a while until I found the problem which seemed to be the incoming electric into the house. After getting a line conditioner the scale is near if not 100% accurate. I haven't recalibrated in in 7-8 months and it's still right on. With different weights and objects, it hits the reading exactly on the correct weight. When I'm reloading I use a test weight close to the powder charge weight every few times just to keep tabs on the scale. It's always 100%. It is very important that either of these scales are 100% level. If you move it and it's just slightly off, the reading will change.

GMPRO300.jpg

Also got a Hornady Autocharger for Christmas last year. Suppose to be +/- .1 grain. Nope! usually worse. Here is another test comparing it to the FX scale. I set the Hornady to a .223 load and a .308 load of Varget. The overcharge alarm went off once when the reading was correct and didn't go off with it showing .14 gn over. With the heavier load, the alarm went off with an overcharge of .08 gn but failed on with a .1 gn. Setting the charge at 42.5, the spread was from 42.38 to 42.60 and at 25.2, it spread from 25.10 to 25.34. with no warning. Not accurate enough for reloading for me but it works fine to drop 1/10 light and trickle up on the FX. If you can, buy the FX!

Hornady AC.jpg
 
It depends on the bucks in your "fun" budget. I had a Gen6 and a Chargemaster combo. Returned both and got a Redding beam scale and a Redding drop, not wanting to spend @ $750 for the set up.

I probably made a mistake.
 
All the balances mentioned are good. Actually any Force re-constituting balance would be good as long as the accuracy is to 0.01 gr.
I took the cheap way out. I bought a used balance on ebay. In fact, I have three Ohaus TS-200 balances with one non functional for parts if necessary.
These measure to 0.02 gr or 1 mg. For sometimes better resolution I put it on grams and get accuracy to about 0.015 gr. Some of this class of balance are grams only with some have a set of selectable weigh units.
If you buy on ebay, just be sure the add says that the balance was tested and performs correctly so you have an out if it doesn't work.
If the seller says the power unit is not there or they "didn't have the equipment to test it" steer clear as it probably is dead! A good price for a balance similar to the ones mentioned or the Ohaus TS-120 or TS 200
should be around $100.
 

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