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Which case neck chamfering tools work best for you?

I use an RCBS case prep center including their tools for chamfering inside and outside of the case mouth. The outside chamfering tool seems to be getting a little dull, so I'm thinking about a replacement. Which inside and outside chamfering tools work best for you, particularly those that would work on my case prep center.
 
this because you can get consistent chamfering from case to case if you trim all the same first. it indexes on the flash hole. they make a shallower one also, but i like the vld.
then this for the outside, 4 blades work better than 3, less slipping.
 
The cutting tools are all steel (maybe SS) and the cases are all just soft brass. Do the tools ever get dull? My RCBS chamfer/deburr tool is almost 50 years old. Is it time to replace it?
 
I took a fine hand stone to the cutting edges of my RCBS
it helped much
I also use a VLD inside reamer for a 2 angle inside chamfer job
then spin the neck against steel wool to smooth and break off swarf
--------------
If a guy was gonna get custom and serious
there are a number of different fluted, different angle, Carbide countersinks on Ebay
My 2 tools have done the job for many moons though
 

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I took a fine hand stone to the cutting edges of my RCBS
it helped much
I also use a VLD inside reamer for a 2 angle inside chamfer job
then spin the neck against steel wool to smooth and break off swarf
--------------
If a guy was gonna get custom and serious
there are a number of different fluted, different angle, Carbide countersinks on Ebay
My 2 tools have done the job for many moons though
I’ve been wondering about sharpening my outside chamfer tool. I don’t think it was ever particularly sharp even when new. Have you tried sharpening those before?
 
Inside I use the Lyman VLD. Outside I use my Herters which I received from my parents along with a Herters press, scale, and dump for my 14th birthday and on the 29th of this month that will have been 64 years ago. The scale is still like new and the powder dumper is fantastically accurate with very light pistol loads, I still use it for that.
 
I’ve been wondering about sharpening my outside chamfer tool. I don’t think it was ever particularly sharp even when new. Have you tried sharpening those before?
Not the outside ones no
Just the inside ones
The outside is not really critical in my book
the inside is because that sets the ease of bullet seating
however, the outside, can simply be burnished with steel wool if anything
I actually, and get this!!!!
Find running the RCBS BACkWARDS!!!!!
works best on the outside, (Smoother finish, no chatter)
Try that man, it's brass, it's soft, you can chamfer with a butter knife
 
Jim Ziegler - I read a comment in another post that Giraud can trim case mouths to the extent that a sharp edge occurs resulting in hand/finger cuts if people aren't careful. What has been your experience?
 
Forster trimmer with their 3 in 1 cutter for big batches. Green handled Sinclair 28° for small batches.
 
Jim Ziegler - I read a comment in another post that Giraud can trim case mouths to the extent that a sharp edge occurs resulting in hand/finger cuts if people aren't careful. What has been your experience?
Some people can screw up a wet dream. Both Giraud and Hendersons work flawlessly.

Also, the handhelds work well. You just have to learn a consistent touch. The handheld types on an electric case prep center is the cheaper compromise and also easier to get consistency than turning with your hand.
 
I use an RCBS case prep center including their tools for chamfering inside and outside of the case mouth. The outside chamfering tool seems to be getting a little dull, so I'm thinking about a replacement. Which inside and outside chamfering tools work best for you, particularly those that would work on my case prep center.
The four blade Hornady mentioned in post #2 should fit your prep station.
 
I put a heavy outside chamfer on my cases almost rounded, I use all no turn nks in barrels but that's just how I do it...you cannot feel a burr just smooth outside...I never have to touch up never no worries
 
What had to be done to make this work? Any insight?
I ordered a longer threaded shaft to replace the Wilson cutter shaft. The 3n1 trimmer has an inner diameter of .490" and the shaft is .500" OD so the new shaft needs to be turned down to .489" so the trimmer will fit. The Grainger shaft I bought is too long by about an inch so I used an abrasive saw to cut it down to 3.5". You need to leave about 3/8" to 1/2" extra length on the shaft to be able to retract the cutter from the case mouth when finished trimming. I don't have a lathe so I chucked the shaft up in my drill press and carefully sanded the last half inch down to .489" with 150 grit sandpaper. The new shaft was hardened so sanding it down took about 40 minutes. The hardest part was sanding it down so it had a consistent diameter.

You will also need a thread adapter because the shaft thread is 5/16-18 and the Wilson handle threads are 7/16-20. I couldn't find a shaft with the correct threads. The thread adapter will protrude from the handle just enough to get the locknut on it. Use a thick washer to take up the space left between the shaft shoulder and the locknut (locknut comes with the Wilson trimmer handle). If you have access to a lathe there are quite a few precision ground unhardened shafts available so you could get one of those instead and cut your own threads.

Since the 3n1 trimmer takes up quite a bit more space than original Wilson trimmer, I drilled a new mounting hole for the shaft holder about halfway between the original hole and the edge of the base. This allows you to move the shaft holder further out to give a bit more space for the 3n1 trimmer. Be aware that this still doesn't give you the same max case capacity as with the original Wilson trimmer. I’m still able to trim .300 PRC brass though with a shorter shaft length. The maximum capacity can be fine tuned a little bit by either carefully measuring the length you cut the shaft to or by using 1/2" ID washers or spacers between the handle locknut and the shaft holder.


It did take a few tries to get the trimmer situated on the shaft so there was almost no runout. This will probably not be an issue if you can turn the new shaft down to size on a lathe.

Parts list:

Shaft: Grainger threaded shaft

Thread adapter: McMaster thread adapter

5/16" x 1/16" flat washer

Spacer: 1/2" spacer

Motor drive kit: https://www.ebay.com/itm/144206832682
 

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