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When do you know that it's time to FL size your Brass?

I neck size, load, fire, repeat on a single piece of brass at my home range until it no longer fits back into the gun upon bolt close. I then set up my full length die off of that case, then I use my amp annealer aztec to get my code. easy peasy.
 
You need to find some other source to read. Assuming proper reloading methods, five loadings are just getting started. One of the problems that I see a lot of is very bad information being published by people who want the attention but do not have the necessary knowledge. On Youtube, there is good information and some very bad. The problem is that for someone who just starting out it can be hard to tell the difference.
+1^^^^ Exactly correct. A lot of info is made on Youtube by individuals that are masters at posting video, but marginal at best in shooting and or reloading. JME. WD
 
I am going to be the odd ball here. When I had one rifle/one caliber, only neck sized until I could’nt feed it anymore. Then FL sized. And my rifle shot better than 1/2 “ at 100. Now I resize after every firing
Thing is you learned, and now resize, I understand hunting and competition shooting are different in some ways, wouldn't it be a pisser if you saw that trophy buck and tried to put a round in the chamber and it wouldn't go??? I'm not going to spend the money I spend to get to a shoot and "think" everything is okay, hoping the case will go in just fine and (fingers crossed) it comes out okay without sticking or a clicker. Not sure what someone things they are "saving" by not full length sizing. (stepping off soapbox), wait, one more thing, to all my competitors, please just neck size all year long :p :eek:
 
Full length sizing dies are not all the same, depending on how they are bored or reamed they can size brass anywhere from .002 -.004 smaller than a sammi speced chamber, I like about .002 of radial sizing for my target rifle and a bit closer to .003 for a hunting rifle.

www.lewilson.com makes excellent FL dies and case gages
I guess I found the culprit in my erratic shooting of late. 5X Fired brass is just not going to shoot accurate from what I can read.
Erratic shooting does come from neck sizing, the problem with it is that when cases are tight and resist bolt opening and closer is that we upset the rifle in the bags and take time trying to get the next round chambered therefore conditions/wind changes.
When you sit next to a competitor that’s full length sizing and you’re not, you’ll notice he’s sent all his rounds during a lull and you are still fighting the bolt open.
 
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I always thought that you want to keep shooting the brass because it is now form fitted to your rifle and that FL sizing returns it to SAMMI.

FL sizing returns it to whatever you set your sizing die to.

SAAMI offers a set of standards (min and max); manufacturers [hopefully] build to stay within those. While you can return your brass to fall within SAAMI specs every time, all you really *need* to do is size so it chambers in your rifle without problems (note that if the rifle was built correctly, that will also be within SAAMI specs, but using the rifle, not the SAAMI specs, as a reference.) [not sure that all made sense, but I tried.]
 
I always thought that you want to keep shooting the brass because it is now form fitted to your rifle and that FL sizing returns it to SAMMI.
If the die and chamber are a good match, FL size every time.

Adjustments will only resolve the headspace part of chamber fit.

The diameter of the brass body right below the shoulder is the one variable that I’ve found lacking with factory dies - they usually size the brass too much for my liking.

But of the option between fl sizing each time and working the brass a bit much vs neck sizing until it doesn’t chamber well, I’ll full length size every firing. The extra chamber clearance does not reduce accuracy. Then if I shoot that rifle frequently I’ll consider buying a custom die that works the brass less.
 
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If your reading or sourcing info encouraging you to neck size your probably getting some dated info. I know back in the eighties when I first started reloading my mentor encouraged neck sizing only for accuracy. I did it for years on a couple rifles, never stuck one but after 3-4 years I came to the conclusion full length is a better route to take. Bolt lift was too stiff after a few firings in factory rifles. Full length is what most people do now, you won’t have that stiff bolt if your doing it right. Bump that shoulder back .002-.003 on bolt actions and .005 or so on semi autos. It really is a better way to go in my opinion. Sold all my neck sizing dies a long time ago.
 
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I prefer to have and use measuring tools to set my FL dies, rather than do it by feel. Most people do not have the gauges to determine if their chamber is within spec, and I have seen new rifles that were not. I remember one fancy Remington .223 that the bolt would close on a NO GO gauge. I am not a big fan of assuming. Also, no matter what they are called most tools for measuring fired and sized cases are only comparitors that require a known standard to determine whether fired brass falls within spec., something like a GO gauge.
 
Full size every time - period - but learn how to do it properly by measuring bump with a bump gauge.

Neck sizing is a myth promulgated in the 60's that purported better accuracy and longer case life. Neither is true when compared to properly FL sized cases with the added advantage of increased reliability and less wear on the bolt lugs with FL sized cases.
 
Will this do? Or should I go with something more specific?

Thanks.
 

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