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When did copper fouling stop in your barrel.

I guess that we are bored. 3 new threads started on this topic weekly. We do have a search function. Probably enough there for a years reading.
Nylon brush??
 
I did do a search. I dont belive in barrel break in but i did it since they recommended it. I was trying to see the general consensus of when people saw a decrease in fouling. Shilen chambered it.
 
Shilen243copper.jpg

How's this for a Shillen barrel coppering !!!
It was like this for the first 100 to 150 rounds. And it was nearly impossible to get all the copper out.
Now it doesn't get any copper fouling, only powder fouling. I haven't seen any copper fouling for the last 900 rounds.
It's a 243win.
 
View attachment 1013661

How's this for a Shillen barrel coppering !!!
It was like this for the first 100 to 150 rounds. And it was nearly impossible to get all the copper out.
Now it doesn't get any copper fouling, only powder fouling. I haven't seen any copper fouling for the last 900 rounds.
It's a 243win.


That is Shilen, not Shillen. Looks like an 8 groove barrel. Now what is the rest of the story?
SS or CM?
Lapped or not?
Chambered by?
Barrel prep or breakin?
Cleaned after----rounds.
Bronze brush or nylon?
What did Shilen say?
 
I don't like to shoot a "dry bore".
Exactly right. Dry bores promote copper fouling. WET a patch with a good oil (Butches or Marvel Mystery Oil), then run a loose fitting clean patch through to remove the excess and your done. Stay away from oil that has teflon-Rem Oil. Many shooters fear oil will prolong the fouling process......I've never seen it in any of my bench guns. Mostly one fouler and their shooting POA, never took more than two in any of my premium barrels.
 
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Well i learned that its 50/50 on break in. As far as fouling i have read some show no copper in 3 shots and others never quit fouling. I did lightly lube the bore with a high quality non teflon oil before every shot on a clean barrel.
 
I have had three rifles rebarreled with Douglas supreme barrels, all in 223 Rem. I'm now using Bore Tech Carbon Remover with bronze brush followed by Bore Tech Copper Remover with nylon brush. I don't know if I'm doing something wrong but I haven't gotten any traces (blue) of copper on my patches after initially cleaning. Accuracy seems fine, no first shot flyers. Bullets are Nosler BT's

PS: I didn't perform any barrel break in cleaning procedures. Cleaned barrel after every 30 rounds which is my standard cleaning frequency.
 
There may be something to that, but I've never seen it.

For my part, I shoot moly-coated bullets in a custom stainless barrel (250 Ackley). Not a single bare copper bullet has ever been through it. Probably only 800 rounds over 20 years. No special cleaning regimen, no accuracy issues to address. Then a couple of years ago I got a Lyman borescope, and looked through the chamber and barrel for the first time. I was shocked by just how pristine it was, no build-up of any kind evident, and (incidentally) no tool marks in the bore. FWIW it's an electro-polished BlackStar AccuMax II, "SS700" (aka LW-50?) alloy.
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Interesting. Decades ago when I was shooting high power matches, I had contacted Sinclair regarding moly bullets. At the time they were all high power competitors too. They stopped carrying them but would special order them if a customer wanted. They are the ones that told me moly, if not removed correctly and thoroughly, would promote rust and they have seen pits caused by moly. Maybe the product has been improved since then.
 
Interesting. Decades ago when I was shooting high power matches, I had contacted Sinclair regarding moly bullets. At the time they were all high power competitors too. They stopped carrying them but would special order them if a customer wanted. They are the ones that told me moly, if not removed correctly and thoroughly, would promote rust and they have seen pits caused by moly. Maybe the product has been improved since then.
Not sure how it could be improved, it's just molybdenum disulfide powder.
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That is Shilen, not Shillen. Looks like an 8 groove barrel. Now what is the rest of the story?
SS or CM?
Lapped or not?
Chambered by?
Barrel prep or breakin?
Cleaned after----rounds.
Bronze brush or nylon?
What did Shilen say?

Stainless Match
Savage pre-fit (chambered by Shilen)
Shoots great.
No break in.

I clean it every 150 or so rounds...
Few wet patches with Butches bore shine...
Seven strokes each way with a Bronze brush...
Few more patches with BBS...
Couple dry patches..
One oil patch...
Clean chamber.

No sign of Copper after the first 150 rounds. I've run a patch with CR-10 and let it sit for 10 minutes and the next patch came out 95% white with a hint of blue. Second Patch of CR-10 comes out with out any blue.

Factory ammo 5-shot group at 109 yards (Federal Premium 100gr Sierra Gameking)
Shilen243Factoryammo.jpg


Handloads at 328 yards, 5-shots, 107 smk, H-4831, Win. brass & 210m.

328 yards 243win.jpg
 
I'm kinda old and slow. First post you said it copper fouled and this post says no copper.

If you're referring to my posts, I said this particular 243win Shilen barrel coppered badly for the first 150 rounds and no more copper at all after that. It only gets powder fouling now.
 
I did do a search. I dont belive in barrel break in but i did it since they recommended it. I was trying to see the general consensus of when people saw a decrease in fouling. Shilen chambered it.

As far as I know, Shilen posted a break in procedure on their website only because they kept getting hassled about not having a break in procedure.
Hand lapped barrels only need a cleaning to get rid of anything left from the chambering and hand lapping. Lapping a barrel does what braking in a barrel does. Why do it twice.
 
My .308 coppers after a while. After 175-200 rounds the accuracy starts to go away until it's cleaned. The copper remover I use is called Wipe-Out / Patch-Out. It takes 5 to 6 applications to get it completely clean, letting it soak 20-30 minutes each time. This product can be left in for a long time with no damage to the barrel. Something I though would help, and I do it every time I clean, is to use a light coating of oil in the barrel and then patch it out. The oil burns and fouls the barrel a little on the first shot to make it harder for the copper to stick. Have a clean dry bore may cause it to start to copper from the first round.
 
Took it out for load devolpment and shot a group with bergers and then cleaned with butches. Very very little copper. Shot another 10 rds and cleaned no copper, and it only took 5 patches. 2 wet then brushed it 2 strokes then one dry, one wet let it soak and then a dry. No blue at all after the soak. Also velocity looked liked it was picking up, couldnt get a good number because my chrono took a crap half way through.
 
Took it out for load devolpment and shot a group with bergers and then cleaned with butches. Very very little copper. Shot another 10 rds and cleaned no copper, and it only took 5 patches. 2 wet then brushed it 2 strokes then one dry, one wet let it soak and then a dry. No blue at all after the soak. Also velocity looked liked it was picking up, couldnt get a good number because my chrono took a crap half way through.


Velocity picked up? How did that happen?
 
Well it happened when the copper stopped. With the 10 sighter rounds i had velocity started at 2545 and right before the chronograph quit i was at 2670 fps. I would assume it has to do with the throat being smoothed out a bit.
 
Well it happened when the copper stopped. With the 10 sighter rounds i had velocity started at 2545 and right before the chronograph quit i was at 2670 fps. I would assume it has to do with the throat being smoothed out a bit.


Probably why your chrono quit.
 

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