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Wheeler fire lap kit ?

I got my 7saum Broughton 5c chopped down to 24" and rechambered after not quite 1000rds. It had started to foul real bad but still shot 168smk`s in one hole @100yrds but my lands moved .1 so I got it set back. Now, at the range today it flat out shot but I`m still geting bad fouling. I did the normal break-in gig and J&B`ed it good but still lots of copper. I ordered a Wheeler fire lap kit but I`m having second thoughts about useing it. In anybodys experince is it better to live w/ the foulling or does a fire lap help restore a worn bbl? This is a dedicated varmint bbl.but I still need it to shoot... Should I try it???
 
Be REAL careful with that Wheeler kit.
Personally I would not use it.
I've moved a factory 308 tubes throat out .1 and I did not use the full recommendation amount of rounds.

I also used it on a custom 243 tube that must have missed the handlapping process. It coppered like a pig and the throat was a little short for the heavy pills it was twisted for.
5 rds of the finest grit,600) moved the throat .03

It would have been better to firelap before setting back but...

I have used the abrasive from the kit on a tight patch and lapped problem barrels by hand. This works much better and does not blow out the throat. Usually just the 600 is needed.

Another method of curing coppering problems that seems to work better than abrasives is Lock Ease used liberally.
Clean the tube to bare steel. Then clean some more.
With muzzle vertical spray Lock Ease down the tube until it pours out the muzzle.
Run a very loose patch through it 3 times to remove any puddling and spread the graphite consistently. Use the same patch for all three runs!
Run around twenty rds through the tube without cleaning. I would not suggest a full house load for the first few shots.
This actually works. I'm amazed at how fast a rough tube will smooth up with just copper pills if you can keep the copper from the first few shots out of the barrel.
When you clean the barrel you'll notice the first few patches are carbon and then you'll begin removing the graphite.
It takes a while to remove the graphite or you can leave it.

It may be time to use a sootier powder with that tube. A coating of carbon helps alleviate copper fouling better than bullet lubes in my expierience.

I'm not sure how much more life one should expect from that chambering but you can try and nurse it a little.
 
patchhound: I used the Wheeler fire-lapping kit in 2001, on a 30-06 03-A3 barrel, and a commercial factory 223: big mistake in both. Measured throat depths & recorded, using the Stoney Point OAL gauge. Followed instructions, using the 600 grit only, roller applied to cast bullets, for both, fired 20 total rds. with each. Throat depths increased, by approx. .035". Same bullet,s) that previously could be seated to touch, could not be kept in the case neck. Slugged the 308 dia. bore & it now measured .309", noticably less resistance with a new bronze brush. Group sizes almost doubled with both ctgs. But, hey, the barrel was easier to clean/ less copper. Wow! I personally would never do it again. For those who say it worked for them, great, I'm happy to hear that: for me, it did not. If the barrel "has problems", I now replace it. End of "problems".
 
Thanks a bunch for the warnings. Ive been a bit wearry about trying it. I got 20rds- 5+5+10 600grit I was going to pop off in the morning. Didnt see any response for a few days so I figured on goin ahead with it to see what happends. Guess I won`t... I plan to use the bbl to fireform the brass for the new Krieger I got but I rather do it hitting what I aim at. It still shoots:D
 

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