whats the difference between-.284 baer and .284 shehane and .284 win?

[japple]

I was considering a .284 win for a fclass rifle. As I looked around more and more I saw these other 2 variations. Can anyone tell me what the differences are between them?

thanks
John

 

[uncleduke]

This is just a ? about what you want to do. I shoot a straight .284 with the168's. 9 twist bbl. If you are looking at the 180's consider the shehane. For a average joe looking to compete in f-class the plain .284 with H4350 or RL-17 is simpler. ie: cost of dies and fire forming. Just make sure your gunsmith has a reamer that will accomodate the brass you want to use and the bullet you want to shoot. Many people here have more knowledge than I. Don't get caught up worrying about an extra 100fps when reading the wind is more important. Just my 2 cents.

 

[TonyR]

The 284 Shehane is just the 284 Win with about 0.010 iches smaller diameter at the shoulder neck junction. Lots of successful 1000 yard F-Class shooters using one or the other. The Shehane lets you use a couple of extra grains of powder and makes it possible to shoot the 180gr bullets above 2900 fps without excessive pressures. The 284 Baer is a necked down belted magnum case of some sort, maybe 308 Norma Magnum. Here is a link to Bruce's website, Click on the 308 baer link and you should get this:
http://www.baercustomrifles.com/

 

[japple]

Thanks guys,

I am pretty new to this game so trying to figure out the minute differences is a lil tricky for me! Thanks for the info. I have a feeling I will go with the shehane for my build. Please feel free to keep the info coming the more I can get the better!

 

[habu]

the shehane is also a bit 'straighter' in the case body - as in bigger.

it also requires special dies. which i understand cost a 'whole' bunch more.

than you must fireform brass, etc.

as a first timmer, stay with the straight .284 and learn to shoot 'f-class'. folks think it's esay - and it is to a point. if you want to win you have to work hard at learning.

ron

 

[sewwhat89]

Look at the shehane as a 284 AI of sorts and the 284 baer is a necked down 300 Ackley (300 Weatherby with radius shoulder blown out to 37 degrees I think).

 

[BURL]

you could consider the 280 or 280AI also although there is that debate about the shorter wide powder colum versus the tall more volumous colum -I am going the 280AI for ease and I am sure through reading more that the 280ai is very accurate but it will be interesting to see the if verticle dispertion happens as much as those that adhere to the stubbier case theory is as critical as thought --mmm but then there is also the driver of said rounds and I imagine that is most critical

 

[HPMike800]

The yardage you are going to shoot at also makes a big differance. The Shehane will shine at 1,000yds but will not be much better at 600ds or less. The straight 284 will probably have more barrel life. What kind of ranges and matches do you have in the area?

 

[japple]

I would really like to shoot some 1,000 yd stuff! I really like the performance shehane from what I have read. the smith I am using for the build wants a dummy round for when he chambers it so he can get the chambering exactly right for the rounds I am going to shoot. I am not sure how I would accomplish this if I decided to go with the shehane. Any suggestions there?

 

[Steve Blair]

I was just developing some loads in a new .284 rifle for Highpower prone, not F-Class. The rifle is a Borden long Tube Gun action with a nitrided, 29" Brux 9" twist. My PT&G reamer that Jim Borden used to chamber has a .220 throat and is sized for Winchester Brass. The OAL with Berger 180 VLDs is 3.220 and a charge of 57.4 IMR 7828 SSC provides 2905 fps. Currently adjusting seating depth to tune but results have been very promising. I am shooting 150 12-14X on the MR 63-C at 300 yards with irons. I will have 500 of the new Hybrid Bergers Tuesday and looking forward to trying them. The hope is that they are a little less sensitive to seating depth than the VLDs.

As far as the chamber, have your own reamer ground. Talk to Dave at PT&G about either the straight .284 or the Shehane. He knows both well. I had mine ground with a .313 neck for a light turn but he can also supply it with a no-turn and sized for Lapua brass. You would not go wrong either way.