Thinking about replacing the gap barrel on my long range rifle wanting to keep it 212 to 225 bullet range . How fast a twist would y'all recommend and length (thinking 30" finished length ) also is there a reamer out there for what my bullet range is or just a regular reamer(wouldnt mind having my own reamer)
What twist rate and length for 300WM barrel
- Thread starter lal357
- Start date
Berger 215 Hybrids, 28" barrel, 1:9 twist, 300 win rhian mantha reamer.
Berger stability calculator online says 10 twist is enough for 230 otm tactical at 2750.
Seated length of cartridges?
Magazine length? Whose magazine? This will determine bullet selection, chamber (throat), powder capacity (bullet seated deeply into cartridge?), powder selection.
1. Pick a bullet you want to shoot
2. Choose how fast you want to shoot the chosen bullet
3. Decide if you want to load singly or mag length
4. Pick a cartridge which has the capacity you need for powder
5. Pick a powder
6. Pick a chamber spec
7. Repeat 3-6 as needed
8. Pick a barrel twist rate required to propoerly stabilize the bullet at the velocity you will achieve above
9. Find the barrel
10. Find the reamer
11. Find a competent smith
12. Send the stuff and a boatload of money
13. Wait awhile for your new toy.
14. Find and buy the relloading equipment and components while waiting for smith
Magazine length? Whose magazine? This will determine bullet selection, chamber (throat), powder capacity (bullet seated deeply into cartridge?), powder selection.
1. Pick a bullet you want to shoot
2. Choose how fast you want to shoot the chosen bullet
3. Decide if you want to load singly or mag length
4. Pick a cartridge which has the capacity you need for powder
5. Pick a powder
6. Pick a chamber spec
7. Repeat 3-6 as needed
8. Pick a barrel twist rate required to propoerly stabilize the bullet at the velocity you will achieve above
9. Find the barrel
10. Find the reamer
11. Find a competent smith
12. Send the stuff and a boatload of money
13. Wait awhile for your new toy.
14. Find and buy the relloading equipment and components while waiting for smith
46and2
Silver $$ Contributor
Repeat yearly to feed addiction.
1- bullet is going to be 225 eldm with the 212 eldm as a back up
2- right now im getting a good group at 2785 fps and can take it out to a mile
3-i load single
4-norma brass right now but looking at others
5- h1000
6- looking into this now
7- repeating per loads
8- have a 1-10T now thinking a 1-9T since i want to keep it around the 225 range
9- have it down to 3
10- asking here
11,12,13- i have other rifle to shoot while this is getting done
14- been reloading since 1985
Auuhhhh.... the preverbal argument on twist, scopes, etc.... Usually you will have some old timers that have had excellent results and that have tons of experience shooting slower twist. The more progressive thought is a faster twist because we are shooting farther today-well into subsonic and spin decay IMO is the lasting you want. The transition from supersonic to sub can be difficult for longer high bc projectiles especially at lower attitudes.
A 1/9 twist would be a good idea IMO.
A 1/9 twist would be a good idea IMO.
definitley not high altitude most shooting done at 600ft above sea level(rockford ,al.) 1000 yards then down to the arena training facility at blakley,Ga for the longer ranges .4 times a year
I'm going thru this very same process. I start by picking a couple bullets I'd like to shoot then go to a ballistic twist rate calculator site and put in WORSE CASE SCENARIO values of where most of your shooting will be. You now have your twist. Asking someone who shoots at 7000ft asl is not going to give you your answer. I live 21 ft asl and plan on making it out to Blakely also and most of what I'm finding with bullets above 215g is a 9 twist.
Then make a dummy round of the bullet you want to shoot and where you want it to be seated into the case, and ship it to your gunsmith along with the barrel, action, etc and ask to have the projectile just touch the lands on the finished chamber. This will give you some play in seating depth but still keep the projectile approximately where you want to seat it to. Doing this, you don't need a special reamer. Just a regular reamer and a throater to get you there.
I like 30" barrels on non hunting guns. I like the balance, the extra velocity when using slow powders, and the ability to possibly reach a higher accuracy node without pushing the load too hard.
Hope this helps
Then make a dummy round of the bullet you want to shoot and where you want it to be seated into the case, and ship it to your gunsmith along with the barrel, action, etc and ask to have the projectile just touch the lands on the finished chamber. This will give you some play in seating depth but still keep the projectile approximately where you want to seat it to. Doing this, you don't need a special reamer. Just a regular reamer and a throater to get you there.
I like 30" barrels on non hunting guns. I like the balance, the extra velocity when using slow powders, and the ability to possibly reach a higher accuracy node without pushing the load too hard.
Hope this helps
For the record I ran the 215 hybrids at 40 degrees (yes we do shoot when it's chilly) and ZERO altitude which in my opinion makes more of a difference than anything else. Berger calc. shows marginal 1.41 SG at 2950 FPS with 10 twist and stable 1.74 SG out of a 9 twist.
230 hybrids w/ 10 twist at 2850 FPS and all else the same 1.32 SG (very marginal) and 1.63 SG (stable) with a 9 twist. Choice is obvious for me.
Now change your parameters to 6000 ft asl and everything is more than stable in a 10 twist. All depends on where you shoot.
DirtySteve
Gold $$ Contributor
Always go for the fastest twist available for heavy bullets. I use a 1-9 on my 308 Win. and 300 WSM.. The faster twist will provide better stability through the transonic zone.
If you're going to shoot the heavier bullets, the Tikka won't be as likely to stabilize them with that twist. The .300 Win Mag is a great caliber. My go to for all around hunting.
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