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What material to use between barrel surface and barrel vice when changing barrels?

I've been using about 1/8" thick leather as a cushion between my barrel outer surface and barrel vice to protect my barrel surface from scratches when changing barrels. However, the barrel vice when tightened cuts through the leather, though it still seems to protect the barrel surface. Are there materials other than leather that can adequately serve this purpose?
 
I've been using about 1/8" thick leather as a cushion between my barrel outer surface and barrel vice to protect my barrel surface from scratches when changing barrels. However, the barrel vice when tightened cuts through the leather, though it still seems to protect the barrel surface. Are there materials other than leather that can adequately serve this purpose?
WTF...
GRIND OFF THOSE TEETH
 
I use wood blocks and the sticky powder - I used to use index cards but that dont seem to be necessary - no scratches yet with just the wood blocks and powder
 
Can we see a picture of your barrel Vice?
I just use a couple of wraps of note pad paper.

here is my barre Vice. The aluminum insert’s ID is machined on the same taper as a typical LV and HV taper. I have others for other profiles.image.jpg
 
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I normally use 'card stock' that I use for targets, which is like index card material. I had one very stubborn barrel that needed more, so I took an adhesive round sanding disc, placed the adhesive side toward the barrel and it worked great.
 
Depends on the action AR or bolt gun...different barrel and action, and conditions. I use electrical tape, evenly around action and barrel on a bolt gun, oak wood will crack on tough barrel removals and I bore Aluminum blocks to the exact diameter. Lube action bolts with grease, to prevent thread galling, cause these big bolts and nuts are gonna get a bunch of pressure applied...and a 2 ft plus cheater bar on the wrench...bolted to a milling machine table...will take off usually the most stubborn...but not always. I've had to machine the barrel off a old Remington 700 action in the lathe...groove the barrel, then face up to the recoil lug and break it free ...this releases all the torque on the barrel...but it still took a cheater bar, penetrating oil, and hundreds of pounds of force to get the barrel to move.
I use a special machined "full lenght engagement" wernch, (no action flexing ) and barrel vise to install 90-95 ft /lbs on bolts.. 60 ft/lbs action wrench in mill vise and whatever wrench fits the barrel nut on your AR build, no more no less.. shim, grind or mill a groove in the barrel nut for those that require timing for the gas tube...I do not change the torque value to get timing.
Whatever it takes...to accomplish the job, for the desired outcome.
 
Spray some Free All penetrating oil on the threads inside the action, down through the scope base screws, and outside crack between the recoil lug and the action. Stand the barrel up and let it soak for a while, and you will see MANY stubborn barrels break free.

I use two wraps of dry wall tape, and often a tad bit of powdered sugar.
 
Anybody ever try some heat, like as in heat gun, to help out? Like maybe three or four hundred degrees. jd
Mapp gas works well for factory barrels that are locked in place by some kind of sealant. For lack of a better word. Just use the heat sparingly. Business cards work well.
 
Leather strip on to and bottom nothing on sides.
I have the same vice.
The vice doesn't have to be greatly tight for me about 40-60 lbs i figure. I just "snap" the stock tight.
One friend had 100 lbs+ and it was cheater pipe tight to get it off
 

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