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What makes h4198 better than the others?

I just bought my first pound of powder today. I bought some Lt30.
Iv heard that most 30br guns , once the load is found,you really don't have to change it.
How true you think this might be of Lt30 compared to the rest?
I would agree but I would test incrementally as summer temps rise just to be on the safe side and not to d out at a match. So far for me, the N130 has held consistently thru the summer temps here in Kentucky.
Tim
 
I would agree but I would test incrementally as summer temps rise just to be on the safe side and not to d out at a match. So far for me, the N130 has held consistently thru the summer temps here in Kentucky.
Tim
Thats useful information. Im southern NC so im about the climate so to speak. I just about didn't buy any 130 today, but did at last minute. Second store went to today had some so i went ahead and got a lb. Iv set jam distance and shot those two decent groups with a iffy powder, so thus far thinking I can do a powder charge ladder around what I got measured with V130. Iv heard to start at 32g charge and go up. With both V130 and Lt30.
That sound right?
 
Thats useful information. Im southern NC so im about the climate so to speak. I just about didn't buy any 130 today, but did at last minute. Second store went to today had some so i went ahead and got a lb. Iv set jam distance and shot those two decent groups with a iffy powder, so thus far thinking I can do a powder charge ladder around what I got measured with V130. Iv heard to start at 32g charge and go up. With both V130 and Lt30.
That sound right?
Yes, start low and work up, every rifle is different. One of my 30BR is spot on with the same load as H-4198, the other rifle is a little bit more. I also have a 30 BRS, (.080 longer) at the shoulder. With N130 as well it is a few tenths more as well. I use a Forster long drop tube funnel, I like the powder to be right near the base of the bullet. So I adjust my powder pour so I am at that point in each of the different rifles. This is just a technique I use, it may work for you or may not make any difference on the target.
This next season I am hoping that the load will still shoot the same, I may tweak it a little. When I shoot my local club matches, sometimes I use that time to test loads and anything that I want to tweak.

Hope this helps.
Tim
 
Yes, start low and work up, every rifle is different. One of my 30BR is spot on with the same load as H-4198, the other rifle is a little bit more. I also have a 30 BRS, (.080 longer) at the shoulder. With N130 as well it is a few tenths more as well. I use a Forster long drop tube funnel, I like the powder to be right near the base of the bullet. So I adjust my powder pour so I am at that point in each of the different rifles. This is just a technique I use, it may work for you or may not make any difference on the target.
This next season I am hoping that the load will still shoot the same, I may tweak it a little. When I shoot my local club matches, sometimes I use that time to test loads and anything that I want to tweak.

Hope this helps.
Tim
All the replies are helpful for sure.
Thanks

How about neck tension? Do you run alot or just enough to hold a bullet?
 
Bra/shooter,
I run quite a bit of neck tension, I start at a bushing .004 under loaded neck measurement at the pressure ring. Believe that is what I was originally given advice on when I first started (shout out and thanks to Mr. Robinett & Mr. Nyhus. Neck tension is so subjective in how everyone measures it, I prefer "interference fit". Consistent neck thickness when turning is key. I use pin gauges to measure after neck sizing and if I need about .0005 > to .001 more based on the pin gauge, I resize the neck with the next smaller bushing. I also segregate that brass so it all is grouped together.

I also jam my bullets, I have found through testing that I achieve the best accuracy with a good jam on all my rifles regardless of who made the bullets or weight.

Just IMO and some of my techniques.

I just got on the 6PPC train and learning it as well, I picked a rifle here on the forum from a member and after talking with him, he is related on my wife's side of the house. Great individual all around that I was able to meet in person and come home with a new to me rifle (Panda), bullets, brass and dies.

It is a journey worth taking and you will meet and become acquainted with some the best people out there.

Tim

(Edited)
 
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LT30 is faster burning than N130 so signs should show up quicker. I think a good sub for H4198 is N120 rather than N130 in 30 BR. Careful working up. Measure head diameter just ahead of extractor slot, no more than .0005" expansion is acceptable. Otherwise you'll be replacing brass quickly.
Case head separation?
 
Case head separation?
I've never had a case head separate but the brass will start clicking and become more difficult to chamber. Along with that the primer pocket will enlarge and leak gas or not hold a primer. If I shoot fast I want a cartridge to go in easily so as to not upset the rifle in the bags.
 
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If a 30BR won't shoot H4198, it's got issues. In that respect, H4198 is invaluable as a baseline powder for a new build 30BR.

But N130, N120, LT30, H322 (and a few others) have all won in registered competition. With the non-availability of H4198 (it's popping up recently here and there), it's best to just jump right to N130 or LT30 and go from there.

For what it's worth. -Al
110% what Al said
 
If a 30BR won't shoot H4198, it's got issues. In that respect, H4198 is invaluable as a baseline powder for a new build 30BR.

But N130, N120, LT30, H322 (and a few others) have all won in registered competition. With the non-availability of H4198 (it's popping up recently here and there), it's best to just jump right to N130 or LT30 and go from there.

For what it's worth. -Al
H4138 is the got to powder for 30BR Her's tow groups at 200 yards with 4198, top off to right bottom adjust to center, bottom target official Varmint for score target.
 

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Don’t over look lt-32, it will shoot winning aggs
I actually shot some Lt32 today. I was out of powder for my 30 so I had remembered bass pro had lt32 on the shelf. I noticed after I got ther I looked at the burn rate chart before I bought it. I did not know that Lt32 was listed as faster than vv130 and 4198. Looking at the chart kinda sealed the deal for me as to go ahead and buy some.
I've kinda been having to returned my 30 here lately because of brass issues and retesting seating depth anyway so I loaded up a powder charge test. 34 to 36 in .3 grain widths.
35g charge shot lights out twice.
I'll probably be buying more in near future
 
I actually shot some Lt32 today. I was out of powder for my 30 so I had remembered bass pro had lt32 on the shelf. I noticed after I got ther I looked at the burn rate chart before I bought it. I did not know that Lt32 was listed as faster than vv130 and 4198. Looking at the chart kinda sealed the deal for me as to go ahead and buy some.
I've kinda been having to returned my 30 here lately because of brass issues and retesting seating depth anyway so I loaded up a powder charge test. 34 to 36 in .3 grain widths.
35g charge shot lights out twice.
I'll probably be buying more in near future
Lt32 is not a speed demon in 30br but it will shoot some tiny aggs, i shot it for a full season in 2014 , Won several grand aggs with the stuff when others said it won’t work.
 
Lt32 is not a speed demon in 30br but it will shoot some tiny aggs, i shot it for a full season in 2014 , Won several grand aggs with the stuff when others said it won’t work.
I reshot a small ladder yesterday in Lapua brass and found that the tune came in a whole grain more than when using alpha brass.
35g for alpha and 36 with Lapua.
Did not speed check this yet but 35g of Lt30 shot 3050 out of my bbl
 

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