Follow along with the video below to see how to install our site as a web app on your home screen.
Note: This feature may not be available in some browsers.
Sounds like a very crude way of doing it if you ask me. ;D Just rattling your cage a bit there Butch. Your method is exactly the way I chamber barrels. Taper boring the hole is the key to the whole thing. You get that hole bored correctly and bushing fit is meaningless.butchlambert said:The deep hole bores are not perfectly straight. Some are damn good and some aren't . You can put them on rollers with a light on one end and spin it and you would be surprised that you can see a very small crook real easy. Did some experimenting several years ago with real crooked barrels. If you set up properly and chamber it, they shoot well.
Now, that is why I don't allow my bushing to fit the bore snugly. If you do as the reamers works it's way around the bore it tends to cut the base of your chamber wider, not cam shaped, just larger. Since I do this for my self, time doesn't matter. I first indicate both ends with my Deltronic pins. They are in .0001 increments. I predrill the chamber to allow my Mitutoyo indicator body to reach inside the drilled chamber. It has a short stylus that I like. I indicate the throat area. I want the bullet to see the center of the bore at that point. Actually in about 1.750" was only about .0001-.0002 off of the initial indication with the pins. I cut and thread my tenon. Now I set my compound to taper bore the chamber at the angle of my reamer. Now I ream with a flat pusher in the tail stock. I do not use a floating reamer holder or hold my reamer in the tailstock. I want the flutes of the reamer to follow my taper bored hole. I do not want my reamer following a tight bushing in a possible crooked hole. I know my chamber is straight and concentric to the throat.
You can use whatever method that you choose, but indicating different ways will not straighten a crooked barrel bore. I've tried the Gordy method and it just didn't show me anything better than what I am doing. There are several ways to chamber, I like my way, my BR buddies like their way, and Speer likes his way. My machinest background leads me to do it my way, but others shoot well doing it otherwise.
Removing the twist in the ways, to me, is part of leveling. Most every 'floor' lathe I've ever dealt with has slope in the chip pan for coolant return. The chip pans under bench lathes are usually flat so........ Big lathes, and I've helped move and setup lathes as big as 36"x 120", all need to be leveled with the twist in the ways removed. I don't move machinery for a living, but over the 36+ years in machining, I've helped move more than one. From engine lathes, turret lathes & mills (horizontal & vertical) to multiple spindle screw machines and now CNCs, too.jscandale said:Why is leveling the machine so important in your assessment?
JS