What is slickest bolt lube that stays put?

[6MMsteve]

Joes Lugsliccer so slick a cat can't touch it

 

[Chfcemerson]

Pro one

 

[OIF/OEF]

Don't forget Astroglide. So slick you could park a Cadillac in a doghouse.

 

[cmillard]

mil-comm tw25!!! that is all I use for everything

 

[1lnbrdg]

Never-seeze on the lugs, run the bolt dry but it's a Remington and it's loose to start with.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Never-Seez-...Seize-Compound-297-Degree-F-New-/182085330953

 

[mauser284]

If your conditions are super dusty as in sandbox dusty you need to think about running dry lubricants or nothing at all. Miltec-1 was good stuff back in the late 1990's I bought it by the gallon. This was before it got super popular with the Army in Iraq and Afghanistan. Back then it was less than $200 a gallon I think I was paying $140 a gallon. You used a single patch coated with it to lube an entire rifle many times. You put the patch in a ziplock bag and reused it over and over again. Back then Schaffers 131 was $9 a gallon but today it is $43 to $53 a gallon. All oils no matter if they are liquid or have been thickened as a grease attract dirt. You have to find a balance between preventing wear from running dry to causing wear from attracting dirt. Rust prevention is also an issue for some materials. If you can see it with the naked eye clearly than you have too much. Oil does not soak into metal in a way that is of any use for wear prevention since oil migrates away from heat. Only the tiniest film is doing anything for wear prevention on a gun. Unlike a car engine wear oil is not just there for lubricity but is also acting as a coolant and it is actually being pressurized by a pump having a sump full of more oil than is needed is a sound investment. On a gun oil and grease attract dirt because their is no way for the gun to operate and have it's air filtered and oil filtered like we do on a car. This means that nothing is there to stop dirt mixing with your grease and oil and forming a primitive lapping compound.

I guess I do not understand why you guys think you need to have bolt action rifles bolt throw feel like it is riding on roller bearings? A slick action does = accuracy, better machining, or enhanced durability etc.......Some of the worst weapons for smooth operation are the most durable weapons in history and are about like coach roaches with regards to surviving anything and everything. Look at the AK variants and Mosin–Nagant horrible but durable even with no maintenance. Ruger M77MkII rough as can be and 200 years from now they will all still be working just fine but few custom BR rifles with slick bolts and lubed to death will be working as they should. Just like more rifles are damaged by excessive cleaning done in a slip shod fashion than weapons reined by lack of bore cleaning since the advent of non-corrosive primers. Either extreme is not good but 99% of the time when it comes to firearms less is more!

In order for a lubricant to do anything the parts have to have sufficient load or heat to work in an EP sense. If not then the only thing a lubricant can do is float the parts but it takes quite a thick film to dynamically separate the moving parts that is why we pump oil under pressure to the main bearings and rod bearings in a car/truck. You would have to make the rod bearings and main bearings HUGE and use low compression and low rpms to have them carry the load with out forced lubrication like they did on old HUGE early engines were you had a 30 ton engine that produced 8hp and 200 years latter is still working with all of it's original parts. So when we design guns we design them to have parts that slide fairly easily when we want them too with very little load. We tend to harden surfaces that slide against each other while leaving other areas of the same part softer and tougher. So most surfaces just need reduced friction. In those applications were we foolishly use the wrong material for cosmetics or corrosion resistance we have to use a grease to prevent galling like on stainless steel automatic slides. They use the wrong steel for corrosion resistance anyways so all you end up with is two SS parts prone to galling. Prior to SS handguns you never saw EP grease being used on firearms. Prior to custom BR actions you never say routine greasing of the locking lugs of bolt action rifles. Crease was normally for preserving rifles and parts in storage like cosmoline. You saw oils and semi-liquid greases like LSA which almost no one ever called "semi-liquid grease" in fact the old school 3:1 oil and Ed's Red which was ATF and Acetone mixed 50/50 were the most common gun oils and general cleaners from 1950 to early 1990's. I think BreakFree CLP opened the door and RemOil opened the door for all these other products we see today. Some of them are really good but 99% of them are just there to lighten your wallet. Magick is science we do not understand and there is absolutely nothing magical about lubricants, guns, engines, knife blades, hammers, axes, nice cuts of meat, great spirits, malted brews or attractive women! Man has full command of these things and the science behind them and complete understanding of them. Esoteric and beliefs not based on facts are great for religion and politics and maybe how best to season food but for the those things gun related we should stick to facts! Cheers!

 

[jimmymac]

Thread is 3+ years old. That's a fact...

 

[Raythemanroe]

Wondering if anyone has tried graphite? Just hand rub some powdered graphite on the bolt surface.


Ray

 

[dolek]

If your conditions are super dusty as in sandbox dusty you need to think about running dry lubricants or nothing at all. Miltec-1 was good stuff back in the late 1990's I bought it by the gallon. This was before it got super popular with the Army in Iraq and Afghanistan. Back then it was less than $200 a gallon I think I was paying $140 a gallon. You used a single patch coated with it to lube an entire rifle many times. You put the patch in a ziplock bag and reused it over and over again. Back then Schaffers 131 was $9 a gallon but today it is $43 to $53 a gallon. All oils no matter if they are liquid or have been thickened as a grease attract dirt. You have to find a balance between preventing wear from running dry to causing wear from attracting dirt. Rust prevention is also an issue for some materials. If you can see it with the naked eye clearly than you have too much. Oil does not soak into metal in a way that is of any use for wear prevention since oil migrates away from heat. Only the tiniest film is doing anything for wear prevention on a gun. Unlike a car engine wear oil is not just there for lubricity but is also acting as a coolant and it is actually being pressurized by a pump having a sump full of more oil than is needed is a sound investment. On a gun oil and grease attract dirt because their is no way for the gun to operate and have it's air filtered and oil filtered like we do on a car. This means that nothing is there to stop dirt mixing with your grease and oil and forming a primitive lapping compound.

I guess I do not understand why you guys think you need to have bolt action rifles bolt throw feel like it is riding on roller bearings? A slick action does = accuracy, better machining, or enhanced durability etc.......Some of the worst weapons for smooth operation are the most durable weapons in history and are about like coach roaches with regards to surviving anything and everything. Look at the AK variants and Mosin–Nagant horrible but durable even with no maintenance. Ruger M77MkII rough as can be and 200 years from now they will all still be working just fine but few custom BR rifles with slick bolts and lubed to death will be working as they should. Just like more rifles are damaged by excessive cleaning done in a slip shod fashion than weapons reined by lack of bore cleaning since the advent of non-corrosive primers. Either extreme is not good but 99% of the time when it comes to firearms less is more!

In order for a lubricant to do anything the parts have to have sufficient load or heat to work in an EP sense. If not then the only thing a lubricant can do is float the parts but it takes quite a thick film to dynamically separate the moving parts that is why we pump oil under pressure to the main bearings and rod bearings in a car/truck. You would have to make the rod bearings and main bearings HUGE and use low compression and low rpms to have them carry the load with out forced lubrication like they did on old HUGE early engines were you had a 30 ton engine that produced 8hp and 200 years latter is still working with all of it's original parts. So when we design guns we design them to have parts that slide fairly easily when we want them too with very little load. We tend to harden surfaces that slide against each other while leaving other areas of the same part softer and tougher. So most surfaces just need reduced friction. In those applications were we foolishly use the wrong material for cosmetics or corrosion resistance we have to use a grease to prevent galling like on stainless steel automatic slides. They use the wrong steel for corrosion resistance anyways so all you end up with is two SS parts prone to galling. Prior to SS handguns you never saw EP grease being used on firearms. Prior to custom BR actions you never say routine greasing of the locking lugs of bolt action rifles. Crease was normally for preserving rifles and parts in storage like cosmoline. You saw oils and semi-liquid greases like LSA which almost no one ever called "semi-liquid grease" in fact the old school 3:1 oil and Ed's Red which was ATF and Acetone mixed 50/50 were the most common gun oils and general cleaners from 1950 to early 1990's. I think BreakFree CLP opened the door and RemOil opened the door for all these other products we see today. Some of them are really good but 99% of them are just there to lighten your wallet. Magick is science we do not understand and there is absolutely nothing magical about lubricants, guns, engines, knife blades, hammers, axes, nice cuts of meat, great spirits, malted brews or attractive women! Man has full command of these things and the science behind them and complete understanding of them. Esoteric and beliefs not based on facts are great for religion and politics and maybe how best to season food but for the those things gun related we should stick to facts! Cheers!

you just dredged up a 3 year old thread to write a novel ? Your long winded posts confuse the hell out of me,maybe if you stayed on topic it would help ?