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Slick bolt lube

It's not that bad over here Donovan. I tried to search out terminal performance on 6.5 142 ablr on another site recently. The first reply.... "My 30 cal elds are good". Second reply...."My 7mm bergers do good". After 2 hours the best I could come away with for advice was to just go shoot an animal in the guts and see what happens. I SH!T YOU NOT.

Tom
146 Eazors

Ray
 
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I know a lot of guys ask, ''whats the slickest bolt lube''. I have tried em all. This is the slickest I've tried by a long shot. GM friction modifier. It's an additive for rear differentials with clutches for the limited slip. It reduces the coefficient of friction so the clutches wont chatter. Its thin and lets the bolt slide very slick, not gummy like stp. Thought I'd let you know, some of you guys may have some in the garage.
I know a lot of guys ask, ''whats the slickest bolt lube''. I have tried em all. This is the slickest I've tried by a long shot. GM friction modifier. It's an additive for rear differentials with clutches for the limited slip. It reduces the coefficient of friction so the clutches wont chatter. Its thin and lets the bolt slide very slick, not gummy like stp. Thought I'd let you know, some of you guys may have some in the garage.
The stuff use to be sperm oil, oil from sperm whales. For a long time after it being outlawed, the petroleum based stuff wasn't nearly as effective. They have come a long way with it now.
 
Years ago I meet Dave Dorhman, who made Tru-Kote bolt lube..everybody back then used it, asked Dave ''what is this lube'', he said ''99 percent olive oil and 1 percent of something so it doesn't smell like olive oil''.
I knew it would stir the pot, but it works.. If veg oil ruins your gun, you have gun problems not lube problems.


Ray
 
Oil in a trigger..... is a huge No..No... and bad/risky/poor advise.

Other's please be aware.... do not put oil or any liquid on/in a trigger !.!.!
( Attention @Forum Boss )
I have oiled all moving parts including triggers for many years and never had an issue. I always put a drop of grease on the sear where they engage. The surfaces where the sear engages is under pressure and has quite a bit of friction to overcome. The application of a lubricant is not going to make the sear disengage. The only downside I can see is the lubricant could attract dirt or debris in some cases. Nothing I'd probably do in a battlefield situation but my weapons are kept clean.

I would like to have your opinion and a reason. Enlighten me.
 
I have oiled all moving parts including triggers for many years and never had an issue. I always put a drop of grease on the sear where they engage. The surfaces where the sear engages is under pressure and has quite a bit of friction to overcome. The application of a lubricant is not going to make the sear disengage. The only downside I can see is the lubricant could attract dirt or debris in some cases. Nothing I'd probably do in a battlefield situation but my weapons are kept clean.

I would like to have your opinion and a reason. Enlighten me.
Don't oil triggers, leave them alone except for a spring cleaning annually..

Ray
 
Holy cow ..... this thread is going in bad directions fast - IMO

First we have replies with advise of using a vegetable oil on a metal surface, to someone telling how putting oil in his trigger reduces pull, to yet another speaking to use of a petroleum product inside a cartridge case.
All of which are known to have bad/risky/poor side effects, if not used with exceptions and do care.

Thanks Alex for the thread, but am almost speechless by the replies and to what this forum and the internet has been turning into.
And isn’t this a seven year old thread brought back to life.
Something in the air today!
 
Yeah, I was always taught to keep the bolt and action dry, with the exception of a dab of lube on each bolt lug. Nothing worse for the raceway that grit, trapped in an oil, grinding back and forth with each bolt cycle. Storing the gun is a different matter: lube away.

I have oiled all moving parts including triggers for many years and never had an issue. I always put a drop of grease on the sear where they engage. The surfaces where the sear engages is under pressure and has quite a bit of friction to overcome. The application of a lubricant is not going to make the sear disengage. The only downside I can see is the lubricant could attract dirt or debris in some cases. Nothing I'd probably do in a battlefield situation but my weapons are kept clean.

I would like to have your opinion and a reason. Enlighten me.

The reason I know, and have experienced in the past, is that oil in a trigger gums it up. All of a sudden, it won't cock on bolt close or you pull the trigger and the sear doesn't release the firing pin. You may say, well clean it more often and relube. I say a good trigger needs no lube to operate well, and if kept dry will go very long stretches without needed any cleaning or adjustment.
 
Don't oil triggers, leave them alone except for a spring cleaning annually..

Ray
Somewhere I read that a good trigger flush with Ronson lighter fluid was a good way to clean oil and debris from a trigger. As the lighter fluid evaporates, it leave a slight lubricating film. Charcoal lighter fluid is a good substitute for the Ronson. I wipe dry my bolt after each round of shooting and flush the trigger with Ronson and have had no issues.
 
I can hardly cycle the bolt on any of my custom, single-shot, bolt-actions without lube, don't see how any of y'all do it dry. So much chatter dry.
 
Somewhere I read that a good trigger flush with Ronson lighter fluid was a good way to clean oil and debris from a trigger. As the lighter fluid evaporates, it leave a slight lubricating film. Charcoal lighter fluid is a good substitute for the Ronson. I wipe dry my bolt after each round of shooting and flush the trigger with Ronson and have had no issues.
Ya, people do it and most would tell you just to get through until you can actually take it apart and clean it up.. Using it for regular service is not recommended. Triggers are not complicated and should really never need to be flushed if you are taking care of your rifle.. I start my rifle off each season with new firing pin spring, trigger clean.

Ray
 
I can hardly cycle the bolt on any of my custom, single-shot, bolt-actions without lube, don't see how any of y'all do it dry. So much chatter dry.
I guess I should clarify. I store guns after wiping them down with an oily cloth. When I get them out to shoot, I run a dry cloth over everything and a dry patch through the bore. So the bolt isn't dry-dry like if I'd cleaned it with acetone but it is a far cry from "lubed up". My Rimrock cycles nice and smooth in this state.
 
What is in it? It matters because rear differentials just like transmissions are not exposed to combustion heat, forces or byproducts. So things that might be fine in them would become corrosive in the engine. In fact gear lubes and transmission fluids have acid based chemistry and we measure the reserve capacity of them in TAN which is Total Acid Number. Engine Oil is measured in TBN or Total Base Number. Different chemistry for different environmental conditions. Likewise additives that might work great in a low speed gear box like Lead Acetate would be worthless in an Engine or high speed gear box not to mention getting in the way of predictive trend based testing like UOA Used Oil Analysis since it might make it impossible to see if any bearing damage has happened in an engine with lead based bearing alloys.

My point is just like the "butt dyno" is not an accurate way to judge automotive performance you likewise can not use feel alone to tell if a lubricant is doing a good job as a lubricant. Keep in mind we want low wear on the parts even more than a slick fast feel. Parts can be eroded mechanically or chemically and if it is minor enough you would never see it with the naked eye until it is too late.

How slick does a bolt need to be? Bolt thrust is more likely to damage a bolt than friction. Corrosion is more likely to damage than friction wear and tear under normal non-competition and non-war use.

Where need use a grease and were not needed very light oil film so as not to attract dirt should be used. More malfunctions are caused by over oiling than under oiling!
 
Why the change?
CW
All actions feel great when first lubed. But it seems like the oil gums up, especially when its humid like deep creek is in the mornings. It seem like done dry handles that humidity better. You should be a able to flick a bolt and it flies back.
 
All actions feel great when first lubed. But it seems like the oil gums up, especially when its humid like deep creek is in the mornings. It seem like done dry handles that humidity better. You should be a able to flick a bolt and it flies back.
One drop off olive oil and streak lightening

Ray
 

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