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What Do You Think of This Barrel Break-in Process?

From a production rifle manual. Rather unusual if you ask me, but what do I know...I am a novice. Your thoughts? I think Howa rifles use a hammer forged barrel.

BREAK-IN PROCEDURE FOR GUN BARRELS USING JACKETED BULLETS
For the first ten shots we recommend using jacketed bullets with a nitro powder load (Most Factory Ammo). Clean the oil out of the barrel before each shot using a simple window cleaner (like Windex®) which will soak the oil out of the pores. After firing each cartridge, use a good copper cleaner (one with ammonia) to remove the copper fouling from the barrel. We do not recommend anything with an abrasive in it since you are trying to seal the barrel, not keep it agitated.

After cleaning with bore cleaner, clean again with window cleaner after each shot. Use window cleaner because many bore cleaners use a petroleum base which you want to remove before firing the next shot. This will keep the carbon from building up in the barrel (oil left in the pores, when burned, turns to carbon).

To keep the temperature cool in the barrel, wait at least 5 minutes between break-in shots. The barrel must remain cool during the break-in procedure. If the barrel is allowed to heat up during the break-in, it will destroy the steel’s ability to develop a home registration point, or memory. It will have a tendency to make the barrel “walk” when it heats up in the future. We have all seen barrels that, as they heat up, start to shoot high and then “walk” to the right. This was caused by improperly breaking in the barrel (generally by sitting at a bench rest and shooting 20 rounds in 5 minutes or so). If you take a little time in the beginning and do it right, you will be much more pleased with the barrel in the future.

Look into the end of the barrel after firing a shot, and you will see a light copper-colored wash in the barrel. Remove this before firing the next shot. Somewhere during the procedure, around shot 6 or 7, it will be obvious that the copper color is no longer appearing in the barrel. Continue the window cleaner and bore cleaner applications through shot 10.

Following the initial ten shots, you then may shoot 2 rounds, cleaning between each pair of shots, for the next 10 shots. This is simply insuring that the burnishing process has been completed.

In theory, you are closing the pores of the barrel metal that have been opened and exposed through the cutting and hand lapping procedures.


BREAK-IN PROCEDURE FOR BARRELS USING LEAD BULLETS
The same shooting-cleaning process may be used when firing lead bullets and black powder with this exception: shoot 2 cartridges, then clean for the first 30 rounds. Naturally, you will use a cleaner appropriate for black powder. You can also use harder lead if available to accelerate the break in. This will accomplish the same as the jacketed bullets.

It may take 80 to 100 rounds to break in with lead. That is why we recommend using jacketed bullets when possible. After this procedure, your barrel’s interior surface will be sealed and should shoot cleaner and develop less fouling for the rest of its shooting life.
 
There's so many different procedures. every manufacturer recommends something different. So I say pick one and see if it makes you happy enough to adopt it.

The 1 shot and clean for 10 rounds recommendation is a good idea for proper break-in, but I've never heard of using window cleaner..... ???

And ammonia based cleaner is not "needed". If you are getting the copper out, you're getting the copper out. There are many non-ammonia copper removing solvents to do the job extremely well and wont burn your nose hairs off ;)
 
And, to further add: All barrels are different and require different break-in procedures. I've had new Krieger barrels (as well as Bartlain, Hart & the old Shilens) that coppered like crazy for the first 5 to as many as 20 rounds fired, then suddenly quit coppering.

At the good extreme, just broke-in a new Kreiger & Bartlein & from the first shot fired, there was not a trace of copper in either, so these 2 had no "break-in". These findings all verified with my Hawkeye borescope. I'm not basing the coppering on the color of the patch's, or the amount of copper as seen with the naked eye, at the muzzle. I've had barrels that were copper free at the muzzle, but had very heavy deposits from the front of the chamber to 3/4 of the way down the barrel, then nothing.

I'll say it again: All barrels are different!
 
Kroil does wonders on cleaning the fouling out. Then use TM bore cleaner. My Bartlein barrel broke in within 7 one shot clean method. Get a good barrel and it wont take 100 rounds to start shooting accurately. .....SEMPER FI!
 
Getting a good hammer forged barrel is the luck of the draw. The prescribed break-in will not make those gremlins (walking shots) go away....it is a result of internal stresses ...resulting from the hammer forging process.
I agree with Frank, window cleaners no longer have any ammonia......neither do most popular bore cleaners. This procedure is most certainly out of date.
Most experienced BR competitors will NOT favor a totally dry bore as is advocated. Carbon in the bore is easier to remove if done at the end of each shooting cycle.
 
I have never had an after market barrel installed in any of my varmit or sporting rifles. So I dont know if the pracess will help the accuracy. I plan on getting a CZ 17 Hornet rifle and should I follow the Barrel Break-In Process can it harm the barrel ? I dont think so.
 
I like it.

One of the things I always do is use water to wash off my brushes immediately after using them with solvents. Many times that water remains on the brush and is used again. No matter to the barrel because you are almost immediately cleaning that out with solvents and oils. The water sure does remove many solvents.

After using a brush during cleaning, swish it around in water and look.

Rough barrels and copper fouling trash quality shooting. Try it.
 
I think this was printed for the American market only.I can just see some engineer laughing his ass off and saying "those stupid Americans really do believe everything that's written".
 
Ackman said:
5 minutes between shots? Complete nonsense. Window cleaner? Where did they come up with this stuff?



They get it on internet forums - you know that they can't make up stuff on internet forums :) :) :)
 
fdshuster said:
And, to further add: All barrels are different and require different break-in procedures. I've had new Krieger barrels (as well as Bartlain, Hart & the old Shilens) that coppered like crazy for the first 5 to as many as 20 rounds fired, then suddenly quit coppering.

At the good extreme, just broke-in a new Kreiger & Bartlein & from the first shot fired, there was not a trace of copper in either, so these 2 had no "break-in". These findings all verified with my Hawkeye borescope. I'm not basing the coppering on the color of the patch's, or the amount of copper as seen with the naked eye, at the muzzle. I've had barrels that were copper free at the muzzle, but had very heavy deposits from the front of the chamber to 3/4 of the way down the barrel, then nothing.

I'll say it again: All barrels are different!

I have little experience, but with my first "real" rifle, I used a Krieger barrel for my home built AR-15. I dutifully go out and shoot and watch for copper on the first and subsequent shots. Nothing. Was I just blind, or...? I cleaned the barrel for the first 5 - 10 shots or so (whatever Krieger told me), and nothing on the patch. ??? Maybe these custom barrels ARE really good and result in little fouling.

Then I got a Dan Wesson 45ACP pistol. High quality piece. Fired 35 rounds out of it and before those 35 went out, the end of the barrel was streaked in orange. It took some effort, but got it all out. I would have thought the Dan Wesson would not have copper fouled so much, but not the case.

I doubt I will use the Howa method of cleaning my Howa rifle, but have begun to look for some definitive article on it, for a factory barrel.

Phil
 
I got it. There is additional text, at the end, which reads "...and that is all there is to it". German has some other comments here.

http://riflemansjournal.blogspot.com/2010/08/equipment-breaking-in-bat.html

Phil
 
That is straight from the Legacy Sport site re: Howa Rifles.

http://www.legacysports.com/product-repairs-faqs/faqs

I actually did those steps a few years ago when I didn't know any better. I can say with complete honesty, I have no idea that the procedure worked or not, but the 2 guns I did it to shoot extremely well for factory guns. (As most Howas do.)
 
How about shooting the rifle then properly cleaning the barrel and so on and so on. Of course dont shoot 50+ rounds out of a new barrel. Start out 10 shots then thoroughly clean and slowly go up shots per clean. How many of you guys use that simple procedure? It works for me.
 

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