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What Do I Tell My Gunsmith?

There are about 3 people in this world that I will follow a recommendation from without hesitation or question.

Bart Sauter, my gunsmith, my mother.

If my smith told me to seat my bullets backwards, I’d do it. If you don’t have that kind of faith in yours, find another.

You tell him the what and let him tell you the how.
 
My only suggestion was going to be throating long. Apparently the knowledge mentioned about the reamer's throat dimensions have that covered.
AFA the blanket advice of "letting the expert's judgement reign"?
NOPE.
Firstly, there are gunsmith, then there are gunsmiths, then there are GUNSMITHS. How many engine builders are out there? How many have the NASCAR owners beating down their doors for a place in line? Having never chambered anything, but a retired toolmaker, l can speak w at least a modicum of experience. I know of one name that would be recognized here that told me during a chat at our home range that "Sometimes l just can't get one closer than .004". Having indicated a myriad of sizes n shapes in on a lathe, l about dropped my jaw.
Yes by all means Ask your question! Absorb, research. Therefore learn. NO ONE KNOWS IT ALL. You may just pass on a "Whattabout...." question to your smith that may give him an idea about a technique or process.
Being an interested, informed purchaser never hurt anyone. :)
I agree. I know many gunsmiths - and I know them well enough to know what some of their individual shortcomings are - some of which was learned the hard way. And therein lies the problem. One almost needs to know as much on what should be done to know their limitations. Getting consensus on this site of very knowledgeable people won't hurt any more than trusting your rifle to someone who may not be up to snuff. If one always sends their rifle to a reputed and known specialist in the field - and he is used to building rifles for your sport, you will do well to listen to his recommendations. I personally have found that it is better to have knowledge to ask intelligent questions or give intelligent guidance if you are not dealing with one of these folks. Not everyone has time to get put on the two-year waiting list.
 
There isn’t much you can tell your gunsmith except Thank You.
you bought that reamer because that was the chambering you wanted. When he chambers the barrel the seating depth is set by that reamer.
take it out and see What The Paper says. That is, how does it group.
I have always said that I would rather burn a throat out than cut it out.
with the 26” barrel, it will be hard to push high velocities.
 
I have always said that I would rather burn a throat out than cut it out.
with the 26” barrel, it will be hard to push high velocities.

Your white paper on the .223 and heavy bullets, handed to me at one of my first travel matches, still comes to mind often after well more than 10 years on. Great observations.

Agree on the throat. Some people might not understand that if the throat starts long, while that might be pleasant to load for and accurate with low pressure over the first few shots and then some, once that initially long throat burns much longer, there is no place to go. The throat was long in the first place because the shooter didn’t want to seat bullets deep. Soon it will be so long there is gas blow by, and once that starts accuracy goes away. That can happen early, well before fire cracking would claim the barrel.

You can get much more accurate barrel life, not starting with the ideally-long throat, imo, it is going to be there soon enough and it will shoot well on the way.
 
Your gunsmith should be open to as many questions as you have. Once you tell him how to do something he may suggest you should do it yourself. You tell him the destination, listen to any bad stories about the neighborhood, then meet him there. Dont ask how he got there just pay him once he arrives
 
Barrel length. I'm stuck with the 26" finish. Lead time for this one was 14 months. Making it to a 1000 would be nice but it is not the be all end all. I'll be totally satisfied to be at 600.
 
I don't know which is why I asked originally. From the comments I've seen thus far I really don't need to ask or tell him anything except when it will be done.

You are trying to ask the right questions, esp regarding the chamber and reamer. If he simply uses yours and it doesn't shoot well then that's on you. If you leave it to up him then you trust he is knowledgeable about the specific caliber and bullet. Understanding pertinent questions, options, and then having meaningful conversation to determine the best steps assure optimum outcome. I would not conduct any professional transaction any other way, as client or provider.
 
I don't know which is why I asked originally. From the comments I've seen thus far I really don't need to ask or tell him anything except when it will be done.

Is that T15 reamer something Manson had on the shelf and shipped quickly? or is it a custom order?
 
i would ditch the 85.5 before doing anything else. You will spend more time chasing ghosts than enjoying shooting. The T15 reamer will work with 90s and 88s.
 
What velocity are the F/TR shooters getting with 90's in a 223 and with what barrel length?
At the high end with a 30" barrel, Lapua brass, and sufficient freebore to seat the 90 VLDs properly in the neck, there is a very nice node at ~2850 fps with H4895. Varget loads will likely tune in at ~25 fps slower. Brass life with such a load is typically poor...MAYBE 4-5 firings before the primer pockets let go. Some will be done after 2-3 firings. Nonetheless, such a load can shoot very, very well, and some are willing to accept the poor brass life.

For those that tire of replacing Lapua brass that often, there is also a very nice node with 90 VLDs at ~2775 fps using H4895 with a 30" barrel, maybe 2750 fps or so with Varget. One gives up just a tick of resistance to wind deflection with the slower loads, but will be compensated by much better brass life.

Whether one chooses a bullets such as the SMK 90s, 85.5 Hybrids, 88 ELDMs, 90 VLDs, or 95 SMKs, using a 28-32" barrel length is common in F-TR. The use of various powders such as H4895, Varget, N140, N135, N150, and probably a few others means subtle differences in tune windows, so the chosen bullet/powder/case volume/freebore can make a significant difference in where each load will tune in. There are also subtle difference in BC between the above-mentioned bullets. However, performance with any of the ~85-95 gr .224" bullets should be a noticeable improvement in terms of wind deflection as compared with .224" bullets in the ~80 gr weight class.

For the OP - if a 26" [finish length] barrel is what you're going have, go with it. It will certainly work, although you may find loads with heavies tuning in at velocities well below what can be achieved at comparable pressure from a longer barrel. I'd expect something in the 2700-ish fps velocity range would be a realistic expectation for a moderate load with the 85.5s and a 26" barrel. You might be able to juice that velocity up a little bit, but will potentially pay the price in terms of shorter brass life. At ~2700 fps muzzle velocity, the 85.5 should remain supersonic out to 1000 yd. Predicted wind deflection at 1000 yd will be higher because of the lesser velocity, but you can think of that as useful for honing your wind-reading skills. You will also be learning about how your bullet of choice behaves, and what it wants in terms of load development. While you are enjoying shooting out the 26" barrel, you can put in an order with a barrel manufacturer for a longer blank, or regularly check online vendors, so that you have another blank in hand when the current barrel nears the end of its useful life.

As has been noted by several others above, you need to inform the gunsmith exactly what you expect to achieve with the setup, and the gunsmith will determine the best way to get there. Good dialog and a friendly relationship between customer and gunsmith is a recipe for success.
 
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No offense taken. You may have given me the correct answer. I've read some suggestions for making a dummy round for the smith to work with.
Yes your smith could get in touch with a reamer maker and maybe fine tune some of the reamer measurements according to your dummy round. I would recommend JGS for a custom reamer. You did not mention neck dimension on your present round so I assume you have a no turn neck. For more precision work I'd recommend neck turning and have a reamer ground to correspond to that neck dimension.
 
No offense taken. You may have given me the correct answer. I've read some suggestions for making a dummy round for the smith to work with.
I have a reamer that is a bit short for the bullet I have ended up using. I bought
a throater. I shoot the 6BRX cartridge, very short neck and I do not want to be at or below the neck shoulder junction. I give him a dummy with the pressure ring seated halfway down the neck. Plenty of room to tune in or out.about 20 barrels later, same Smith, same reamer....pretty much the same load shoots in every barrel. It works, that is why I give him a dummy to give be the throat exactly as I need it.
 
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