What accuracy can I expect from a Savage Target action.
- Thread starter zanemoseley
- Start date
I'm curious how you keep the action from turning when you screw the nut against it to tighten everything up and keep the recoil lug in it's correct position? Yeah, somebody's got to have a lathe for either barrel fitting. Somebody has to thread and chamber the Savage barrel too. From here the cost is the same to do a Savage or Remington and the turn around is usually within a couple of weeks. I don't have an issue with Savage, but somehow the internet has gotten them to the point that changing a barrel is nothing to it. Actually the other actions are easier once you have the barrel done.
You need a lathe to cut the threads and chamber the barrel. That is where the others keep going and the Savage stops. You buy a chambered threaded barrel for a Savage like any other. BUT the barrel headspacing is done by you with 3 tools. No need to have the barrel and the action go to someone to set the headspace. (which today can be a pain with shipping the action if you don't have a 'smith near you)
I don't know about the INTERNET saying there is nothing to it. You have to know what you are doing but it involves zero machining.
Yes on the others once the headspace is done it's over. HOWEVER that barrel is dedicated to that action only (unless you have it sent out to be done again). With the Savage you can swap actions and barrels as much as you desire.
Stone the nut, lug and receiver face flat and things won't pull around so much.
The recoil lug has a small bolt, the head of which fits into a recess in the action so that it won't turn. Once you have the barrel secured in the vise and the action screwed on to just the correct position for exactly the head space you want, then you simply snug up the nut while holding the action in position with your hand, attach your torque wrench to the nut wrench at 90 degrees (so that you don't have to do any math) and tighten the barrel nut to the correct torque. If you properly lubricate the threads, it's easy. Then you re-check the head space to be sure it's perfect and that nothing moved. If not, do it again. It is assumed the gun owner is working for free and if it takes three days for a first timer to set the head space EXACTLY perfectly, well just chalk the time up to educational experience. It's nearly impossible to damage or ruin any expensive components. The first time I fitted a Savage barrel it only a few minutes to attach the barrel to the action once I finished making my barrel vise. It took longer to double check the head space than it took to initially set it and torque down the barrel nut.
Fitting a conventional barrel where the shoulder must be turned down exactly the correct amount takes quite a bit of operator skill to do correctly and even then, sometimes the stopping point is achieved when the headspace is "good enough". Very few shooters have the skill or equipment to fit a barrel.
Producing a chambered and threaded barrel for either type involves nearly an equal amount of work; therefore, the cost is close to the same to purchase a barrel ready to screw onto an action. The difference is that with a Savage (or a properly modified Remington) you can do it with unskilled labor and without the requirement to use an expensive lathe.
Ill agree the Savage PTA action I had with a Brux 1-8 full bull was a hammer. I have a Haverkamp that was built by a guy on here and his work is second to none. The Savage will edge out the Haverkamp but I do not have a lot of trigger time behind the Haverkamp. In Short the Savage PTA will doggon shoot. If there could be a Jewel trigger for a Savage I think youd see more at big matches
And here's how to have the best of both worlds... Get the barrel set for headspace and drill and tap for an allen screw ( I go 50 thousand's in to the barrel its self) Now it works just like a "shouldered barrel" but you could remove the allen screw to set it up for another action. I have 3 6br's , a 30br, a 6dasher and 3 6.5x284's set up this way.
Alexander-M
Gold $$ Contributor
Are the Savage PTA's the same actions as on their target rifles, such as the Savage 12 F-T/R? I tend to think so, but the 12 F-T/R description on their website does not mention the action.
Thx
Nando
Thx
Nando
Like the above poster asked, not sure if the mod. 12 F-T/R is same as the pta action, but here is a target from last week from my mod. 12 F - T/R Savage. (3 groups - was working on receiver bolt tension settings). Smallest group was final receiver bolt setting "sweet spot")
Target was from 200 yards on a virtually zero wind day (range configuration is basically protected). All shots fired from Joy-pod. I new to F - T/R and still getting used to light trigger so add in some variation due to the dumb wing-nut behind the trigger. Based on the above, I can't blame any issues on the rifle in a match!
Dave H.
Target was from 200 yards on a virtually zero wind day (range configuration is basically protected). All shots fired from Joy-pod. I new to F - T/R and still getting used to light trigger so add in some variation due to the dumb wing-nut behind the trigger. Based on the above, I can't blame any issues on the rifle in a match!
Dave H.
Attachments
Is this what you looking for?:
http://www.accurateshooter.com/technical-articles/savage-action-screw-torque-tuning/
http://www.accurateshooter.com/technical-articles/savage-action-screw-torque-tuning/
memilanuk
Gold $$ Contributor
Yes. The 12 F/TR, F-Class, BR, Palma and LRP are all essentially the same action, with slight variations. The LRP is a repeater; the BR is a dual-port (or used to be, haven't handled one in a while); the Palma is drilled-n-tapped for a rear sight base as well as a scope base. There used to be two 'generations' i.e. the older 12 F/TR and F-class with one action hole spacing, and the BR and Palma with a newer hole spacing (to move the front screw back into the bolt lug area where it would get more than a couple threads worth of engagement).
There were plans to move everything to the new hole spacing; I didn't really keep track of it beyond that. Most of mine have more than a few miles (rounds) on them (one was pre-CNC production) so I'm not 100% sure if they did or not.
CharlieNC
Gold $$ Contributor
I was told from a reliable respected Savage Smith that you do not need any special tools to change the barrel. Lay the barreled action on its side on the carpet, insert wide blade screwdriver into the barrel nut notch, wack screwdriver with hammer to loosen nut, and unscrew the barrel. Reverse procedure to tighten and wack it to secure the nut. I'm sure this will shock many who would never try this. I have also read you can sufficiently hand tighten the barrel nut. In other words the tightening torque is not critical. I have used a barrel nut wrench, but mostly now just the screwdriver, with no discernable difference in accuracy.
memilanuk
Gold $$ Contributor
CharlieNC,
Once the factory barrel is loose, yeah, you *can* do that. I have, mostly as a proof of concept. But really, it takes the normal shade-tree 'gunsmithing' used with Savages just a little bit too far. Most people I know that use this method have some sort of phobia about taking the barreled action out of the stock, or the scope off the rail - but not about whacking their precision firearm with a deck screwdriver and a hammer. Go figure. Me, I'm like lightning - (almost) never strikes the same place twice - so me swinging a hammer near my scope would be... ill advised
Classic example of 'just because you can, doesn't mean you should'. Just do it right.
YMMV,
Monte
Once the factory barrel is loose, yeah, you *can* do that. I have, mostly as a proof of concept. But really, it takes the normal shade-tree 'gunsmithing' used with Savages just a little bit too far. Most people I know that use this method have some sort of phobia about taking the barreled action out of the stock, or the scope off the rail - but not about whacking their precision firearm with a deck screwdriver and a hammer. Go figure. Me, I'm like lightning - (almost) never strikes the same place twice - so me swinging a hammer near my scope would be... ill advised
Classic example of 'just because you can, doesn't mean you should'. Just do it right.
YMMV,
Monte
CharlieNC
Gold $$ Contributor
Fox nobody likes unwanted marks on their nuts
. But with the screwdriver it can be isolated to the underside next to the stock. I was told this procedure is frequently used by a band of prarie dog hunters to rapidly change out barrels in the field with action in the stock, scope on. Obviously not for everybody.A reputable and experienced High Master Shooter used the screwdriver method. While at Camp Perry two years ago . He had a catustrophic case failure on the firing line when the stretched barrel nut failed to hold the barrel on correctly. You are an individual, I am a licensed and insured gunsmith. I can't recomend the method. I would bet Paul the owner of Accurate Shooter would not look highly at the recommendation of this method of loosening and tightening Savage barrel nuts. He is very Savage oriented an a lawyer to boot.
Nat Lambeth
Nat Lambeth
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