What accuracy can I expect from a Savage Target action.

[BigBlueandGoldie]

A screwdriver and a hammer? That sounds really half ass. I don't doubt it would work, but what's another $100 for the right tools when you've already spent $2k on a rifle and scope?

 

[Concha]

"reliable respected Savage Smith"

I can see one saying "I have heard of this....." but can't fathom one saying "all you need is a scew ........"

Care to name him. I want to know who to stay away from.

 

[CharlieNC]

No names guys. Outside of the legitimate concern of damaging the barrel nut, I will say it is quicker and easier than using the tools and less tempermental getting the headspace right.

 

[DennisH]

Having the right tools makes a difference. Including myself along with a few others here know what it means to have the right tools.

I don't know how many Savage Barrels I have replaced, but I use a good barrel vise, and a good Barrel Nut wrench which is 1/2" thick (this wrench works on both type Savage Barrel Nuts). I have never put a mark on any Savage Barrel Nuts. I have "never" put anything on a Savage Action (I have seen actions damaged by sticking a screw driver in the port, a screw driver will damage the action). I do have an action wrench, but I have only used it on Remington's.

You secure the barrel in a barrel vise (I have a metal one, but two pieces of Oak in a bench vise is hard to beat especially for novices), then secure the wrench on the barrel nut, give it a medium smack with an orange rubber/plastic hammer, and the nut will loosen up. This even works on smooth barrel nuts. NOTE: Make sure you remove the front scope rail screws, another rule to insure a defect free barrel change.

Also, you put a 1/2" thick tool around the smooth nut, and it's coming off. It's never failed me.

I might have to readjust a few to get the correct head-space I like, but most of the time the head-space is correct the first time.

If someone wants pictures, I will be glad to email them to you, just PM your email address.

It's really a simple procedure. Probably the biggest concern for me is when removing the barrel nut wrench, be careful not to scratch the barrel in the process. On a highly polished barrel, I just put 2 strips of masking tape on the barrel before taking the wrench off. Just extra insurance, and a little more self confidence when head-spacing an expensive high end barrel.

Dennis

PS: Back to the OP's, I have 3 Savage PTA's, worked over by Fred, a/k/a Sharp Shooter Supply, all with his Evolution Trigger. These actions hang in there with the best of them.

I also have BAT's & Panda's, their all very close in performance. Fred does a great job on the Savage PTA's, but then your almost at the cost of a BAT/Panda. One of the biggest plus's with Savage is being able to change the barrel on a Savage in minutes, anywhere.

 

[zanemoseley]

Well a Panda F Class with Jewell trigger will cost at least $1600. A savage worked over by Sharpshooter supply with their new trigger is $940. The Barnard P with their trigger is $1295 so it's probably the next step up.

 

[zanemoseley]

Also I'm curious do you guys with the Savage actions ever change barrel while keeping the scope on the action? I was looking at my Tikka T3 and hangs off the front of the piccatiny rail 1/2"'-3/4" and seems like if there were a barrel nut there it would get in the way of the nut wrench.

 

[BillPa]

Also I'm curious do you guys with the Savage actions ever change barrel while keeping the scope on the action?

After the factory installed barrels for swaps nothing but a rear entry action wrench, a modified open ended spanner( nut wrench) and a 5/32 allen wrench, no vise. I've already shot as many as four barrels ( three swaps) at the range on a shooting bench.

Bill

 

[DennisH]

Also I'm curious do you guys with the Savage actions ever change barrel while keeping the scope on the action? I was looking at my Tikka T3 and hangs off the front of the piccatiny rail 1/2"'-3/4" and seems like if there were a barrel nut there it would get in the way of the nut wrench.

NO, I won't risk damaging my expensive scopes when it only takes 30 seconds to take it off. Plus, I always remove the front scope rail mounting screw before taking the barrel off.

It's not worth it, and it's too easy to remove.

Dennis

 

[JarheadAZ]

I have this 2001 Savage 10FP factory action, it got some truing despite mic'ing in the 'already true' range. There have been 3 barrels used on it, in two chamberings, and another chambering is soon contemplated.

The advantage here is that I can have performance in those 4 chamberings with a single good action, nice aftermarket trigger, outstanding premium stock, and proven (over nearly 15 years) optics/mounting setup.

If you only need one rifle, you can dress it up real nice and only need to do it the once.

But a 'Remage setup' (non-Savage action) using a barrel with the a barrel nut can work in many other actions. Mossberg is using the nut already, too. Some are following soon.

I bought the Wheeler bolt nut wrench ensemble, and it handles essentially any Savage barrel nut.

Shooting F Open 1000yd at Bodines for a couple of years got me in/around the 190's on a usual basis. Undoubtedly someone more experienced could have wrung better wind calls and marksmanship out of it and put it up there with the big dogs. The gun's not the problem.

Greg

 

[SierraCJ5]

Who supplies this action wrench? Thank you!

After the factory installed barrels for swaps nothing but a rear entry action wrench, a modified open ended spanner( nut wrench) and a 5/32 allen wrench, no vise. I've already shot as many as four barrels ( three swaps) at the range on a shooting bench.

Bill

 

[coyote-slayer]

I currently have a Tikka T3 Sporter in .308 and just finished a 6mm Fat Rat AR. Now of course my head is going onto the next project. I'd love to do a full on custom but that will have to wait until I get my house paid off a few years down the road.

I've had my eye on the 6.5x284 as it seems to be great for accuracy but not so good for barrel life. The appealing thing if I had a Savage with a 6.5x284 barrel changes would be easy.

So long story short is it looks like I can get a Savage Target action, pre-fit match Criteron barrel and McMillan f class stock for about $1800 and should be able to assemble myself with the help with my shooting buddies. What kind of accuracy should I be able to wring out of this setup? I'm not expecting .25 moa but would be nice to get close to .5 moa. I've also thought of rebarreling my Tikka but it would require gunsmithing as it's more of a standard headspaced setup.

I would suspect you will have as accurate as any custome... especially if you go with the shilen select barrel... have not tried the criterion yet and don't know if I will as I have put 2 shilen select match 28" SS bull barrels and both at 100-200 yards you can put through the same hole... I suspect someone more skilled than I could do that at much further distances... At 400 yards I hold about 7min high and still hit with 1/4 to 1/8 of eachother, 800 yards I was holding about 20 minutes high and still able to group 4inches and under... don't let savage haters bs you... you will hear lots of flat out bs about savages... my favorite is that the actions are extruded... Not true... they are machined from forged bar stock... my model 11 trophy hunter, I did all the work myself. Original price of rifle was $415, Hogue full aluminum bed stock $279, shilen 28" stainless select bull match barrel with precision ground lug/SS nut and 1.5-4lb accutrigger replacement spring $429. So about $1123 I built a tack driver that I would be comfortable putting against any $6000 custom. My other savage is pretty much the same except built on a target action in 22-250... both are surgically accurate.

 

[GSPV]

There is *nothing* Savage unique about switch-barrels.

In the past, the ability to buy pre-fits and headspace them at home was unique to Savage. That is no longer the case. I’ve seen barrel nuts for Shilen, Remington, and Tikka. Don’t see why it isn’t possible with any action. Now, whether it is financially attractive for a barrel manufacturer to make the pre-fits is a totally different story.

A third angle here is the easily-swapped bolt head on the Savage. I believe that the Shilen action is the only other with that feature.

 

[Ggmac]

There is *nothing* Savage unique about switch-barrels.

In the past, the ability to buy pre-fits and headspace them at home was unique to Savage. That is no longer the case. I’ve seen barrel nuts for Shilen, Remington, and Tikka. Don’t see why it isn’t possible with any action. Now, whether it is financially attractive for a barrel manufacturer to make the pre-fits is a totally different story.

A third angle here is the easily-swapped bolt head on the Savage. I believe that the Shilen action is the only other with that feature.

The other action with a changeable bolt head is the new ish is the Remington 783
Which is the Marlin Xs/l 7

 

[GSPV]

Cool! Thanks!

 

[memilanuk]

...and Big Horn Arms. Though $150-200 for a bolt-head seems a bit steep...

 

[varget204]

Savage switch barrel's here. 6BR, 6.5BR, and 2 in 30BR. One SAVAGE PTA action. The ability to swap barrels to me is huge. Meaning I purchase the barrels and do the swap myself. Barrel vise, nut wrench and ONE set of go...no/go gauges. So far I am way below the price of a lathe. And I rely on no one's turnaround time but my own.
Accuracy? I am a short range shooter and any of those 4 barrels in that action can shoot better than I can and they replaced a 222 benchrest rifle I've shot since the early 70's and is quite good. Bottom line (for me) is 3 tools and I have 4 barrels going on one action. That's a lot of diversity for an acceptable investment. Additionally I enjoy doing it. (except for those extractor balls)

I launched a few extractor balls too before i learned to assemble in a Bag,You put a Bolt Lift Kit in a Savage and they can compete w,the High $ ones,Quality Match PRE FIT barrels can be had for$300 to $400.

 

[JFrank]

Here's a question
Even with the best bolt lift procedure how do you overcome the stiff primary extraction that upsets the rifle in the bags just enough to require re aquiring the x ring prior to the next shot all while your competitors are cycling their dual and drop port actions without these issues?
Just curious

 

[6MMsteve]

I don't overly torque my barrel nut when installing a barrel, just a good snug, and a little that's it, which is quite tight, make sure to grease the threads with some decent grease, and clean the lug area well before installing the barrel, I clean with a action kit so my lug area is almost spotless when I remove a barrel. I always headspace on the tight side a little pressure on the go gauge, it has worked well for me

 

[dc.fireman]

I was told from a reliable respected Savage Smith that you do not need any special tools to change the barrel. Lay the barreled action on its side on the carpet, insert wide blade screwdriver into the barrel nut notch, wack screwdriver with hammer to loosen nut, and unscrew the barrel. Reverse procedure to tighten and wack it to secure the nut. I'm sure this will shock many who would never try this. I have also read you can sufficiently hand tighten the barrel nut. In other words the tightening torque is not critical. I have used a barrel nut wrench, but mostly now just the screwdriver, with no discernable difference in accuracy.

I have not had this experience.

I changed the barrel on a M12 BVSS, from .22-250 to .260, using a Shilen Select Match barrel from NSS. I used a new NSS barrel nut, and their action wrench. I used a set of Forster gauges to check headspace. I neglected to follow the part about torquing the nut to 80 ft. lbs. - I figured 40-50 ft. lbs was 'good enough'. 200 shots into load development, I was having rounds that would occasionally chamber, and then occasionally not.

After some frustrating attempts at load development, my shooting buddy and I discovered that the barrel had come loose. Opening and closing the bolt was actually changing the headspace each time we cycled the bolt. When we dismounted the action from the stock, it was so loose that it swiveled around by holding just the barrel.

The barrel and barrel nut need to be tighter than just whacking it with a screwdriver. Tighter than hand tight. Tighter than 40, 50, or even 60 ft. lbs. It needs to be torqued up around 80 ft. lbs.

 

[Texas10]

One really good reason to remove the rail or front scope mount before removing the barrel is the fact the sometimes the front screw is tight against the barrel tenon threads, and trying to unscrew the barrel from the action can tear up the threads in both the action and barrel.

Better safe than very sorry.