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Want to buy or build a competition rifle. Where do I start?

I have been shooting bolt action rifles all my life(44). I have been buying rifles since I have been old enough to fill out the paper work. I reload and I have even shot some local gun club matches. My problem is that I have not been able to find a factory rifle that will consistently shoot 1/2 MOA. I started with a used Rem VS 22-250. It was good, but soon lost its consistency. Next was a Savage BVSS 22-250....same problem. Then a new Rem 700 223 and new Savage FV 223 and then used Savage and Rem 700 308. I keep buying factory Rifles with same results. I have upgraded all my reloading equip and have HS precision stocks on my REm 700's. I have also upgraded my scopes to Nikon Monarch's and Leupold.
I am ready to sell my 6 or 8 varmint/Tactical rifles and buy or build. I am open to any caliber up to 308 and would be willing to rebarrel anything I have. What is an accurate competition set up?
 
Hi Mike

First off I think we need to define what type of competition you intend to build for. Lots of discaplines out there to dip your toes into.

1. Tactical
2. IBS and NBRA Bench rest both short ( 100 200yd) and Long range 600 and 1000yrd.
3. NRA Across the course, 200 300 600yds
4. F class prone 300 through 1000yds
5. NRA Prone with a sling... 300 through 1000yds
6. Rifle silhouttee 200 meters to 500 Meters all standing!!!
7. Good ole plate shooting with freinds and beer as the wager on the line.

Everyone of the above has a diffrent requirment as to how the rifle is set up and how accuarate it needs to be to be inthe winners circle or at least competative.

A 1/2 to 3/4MOA gun in NRA Across the course will get you to the top while that same rifle will never get your anything in IBS or point blank benchrest... dispite the complete rifle and accesories difrences. So you can see that your question is quite open ended.

Help us out here and im sure we will chip away at it.
Welcome aboard... Its very very addicting.

Russ T
 
The rifle club I am a member of has a monthly fun shoot. 300m 2"X4" and 2X2".......same metal targets at 200m. Each is 10 shots from a bench in 6 minutes. Then 100 meters best 5 shot group.
The longest shot I would make at the gun club is 500m.
 
As far as Caliber is concerned I dont think you could go wrong with the 6BR.. Lots of info right here on the main page. Its super easy to load for and is pure joy to shoot... Seems it will shoot ALOT of loads very well.
You already have a good platform in the two 22-250 rifles you have right now. Both The Remington and Savage can easyly rebarreled into the 6BR Norma. I believe your half way to a good shootin and winning rifle already.

Sounds like you have to spot your own shots so a high Quality High magnifcation scope is going to be your friend...Best to have the magnification and not need it and need it and not have it when it comes to the Variable power scopes. Your going to have to spend a pretty good chunk of change on good glass to get it done right!

6BR Norma, Simple Accurate and consistant.

RussT
 
Out to 500 meters? 8 twist 6BR Norma would be my choice. .060 freebore would allow you to use 55-105 grain bullets.
Flat 3 inch fore end benchrest stock with a front rest rear bag setup. Remington action or custom action Remington clone. Jewell trigger. Good quality high magnification scope like a 12-42 BR Nightforce in a good set of rings on a good quality base.
Build new, or check the classifieds for a nice used rig.

Danny
 
Looks like the decisions are unanimous. Rebarrel your Remington 700 with a 1:8" twist barrel in 6BR and shoot 105 gr bullets. You will be amazed! Jewel trigger is a must!
 
And from the history of your rifle problems, that you supplied, learn how to properly clean and maintain your new, custom barrel. If left carbon or, copper fouled your results will not be pleasant.
 
I was thinking the exact same thing as DocEd when I first read the OP. It would appear the OP is clueless about rifle and barrel maintenance. Granted a 22-250 is somewhat of a barrel burner but a .223 barrel should last easily 5000 or more rounds before losing precision and a .308 would be the same.

My suggestion would be do to a thorough and I mean COMPLETE cleaning on the .223s and .308 using good chemicals, one piece rods and nyon brushes. And patience. If the OP cannot properly maintain a .223 or a .308, what do you think will happen with the 6mm?

Sorry to be harsh (like some chemicals), but I'm just surprised by what I read in the OP; rifles just don't go bad like that.
 
bayou shooter said:
rifles just don't go bad like that.

Oh yes they do! I have seen many F-Class rifles shoot great in the morning and mid morning (800 & 900 yards) and shoot really bad after lunch (1000 yards). ;D
 
bayou shooter said:
Right, but the next morning, they again shot great at 800 and 900. Must be due to the great cleaning the night before.
LOL, that must be it!

Except, that I suspect that if they shot the course in reverse, meaning shoot 1000 yards in the morning and 800 after lunch, then cleaning would hurt accuracy and fouling would help. Makes you wonder! ;D
 
Erik Cortina said:
I have seen many F-Class rifles shoot great in the morning and mid morning (800 & 900 yards) and shoot really bad after lunch (1000 yards). ;D

This is discounting a really drastic change in conditions? I've shot days at Raton when the lunch break ushers in a terrible change from what was easy conditions before the break.

Either that or the elevated blood sugar / full tummy's playing Hob with performance? I try to avoid eating anything less than an hour (more if possible) before my relays... but then I'm still futzing with sling & irons as I approach my 64th birthday....
 
It defdinitely cant be atmosperic changes from a calm cool morning to full sun, boil and heat soak after lunch either...

But yea, my factory barrels copper much faster than my kreiger. It barely coppers at all.
 
Thanks for all the input. I like the sound of the 6mmBR. Who makes the best barrel for the money? Also, how has a good turn around. I have a few gun smiths in my area.....I will make some calls. Do I need a benchrest stock? Od can I use my HS Precision tactical. What about reloading dies.....Is it worth the money to go with the high end stuff. I have redding and RCBS and a few Hornady.
 
You can't go wrong with a Kreiger, Bartlien, Hart, Lilja, Brux, Broughton, etc..

I have 2 Broughton's and not a bad word about either.

Ask 10 people and you'll get 10 answers. What really matters sometimes is who has what you want when you'll need it by?? Kreiger told me 6 months, Broughton told me 2 months..... that's probably why I have 2 Broughton's.

Set youself up a good smith- and he probably won't be local if he's good. Here's a list (probably outdated)- http://www.accurateshooter.com/technical-articles/gunsmithing/gunsmiths/

I used Carl Bernosky. Great work for a great price.

A good stock will set you back the better part of $1000 or more if it's done right.

Line up your smith.... make sure he has the reamer you'll need, or you'll have to buy one from PTG.
Line up your stock.... they can take 6 months or more this time of year.
Line up your barrels- don't settle for ANY barrel in your caliber choice. Get the length and profile you want/need, or your wasting your time.

It's a dance at times, but it will all fall together sooner or later.
 
Mike and anyone doing there first match rifle...

Here is a absalute wonderful article that German put together for the first time buyer. It will really help you and your smith to get exactly what your wanting. He helps you ask the questions you never knew to ask.... Thanks German!!! ( Click the link below)

http://riflemansjournal.blogspot.com/2010/05/equipment-ordering-custom-match-rifle.html
 
Another option is call Ray Bowman of Precision Rifle and Tool 336-214-5381 or www.precisionriflesales.com. He has built National Championship wining rifles in FTR and FO. He can explain everything you need and set you up right. He has built two savage rifles for me.

Va Jim
 
Va Jim said:
Another option is call Ray Bowman of Precision Rifle and Tool 336-214-5381 or www.precisionriflesales.com. He has built National Championship wining rifles in FTR and FO. He can explain everything you need and set you up right. He has built two savage rifles for me.

Va Jim
[br]
What's that guy's name? Crofts or something. He's done Ok with his PR&T rifle. ;)
 
Now that you know the caliber, your next big decision is what gunsmith. Don't look for a deal, or what is close. If you have an excellent competition proven gunsmith near by, then talk to him, but leave off the do it yourself design process. A good smith will guide you through the process. What you don't want is some local shotgun cleaner who has no competition credentials who tells you that he can do it.
 

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