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vibrating a powder measure

divingin

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Does anyone here have some sort of vibrator on their powder measure?

I recently changed powders for my bullseye pistol loads, moving from Titegroup to WST. While my loads for 32SWL seem pretty consistent (can't tell with 38Spl, as I'm low on bullets), my 45 loads seem to be getting a lot more charge variance, based on recoil impulse (haven't chrono'd anything recently.) I'm loading on a Hornady AP progressive, and generally have one hand full of cases and the other full of bullets, so giving the measure a tap every time is less than ideal.

I was thinking about getting something like a vibrating transducer (like the thing that vibrates your cell phone) and gluing it to the base of the powder measure. Not sure it would have enough force to do much, though.

So what do others use? Any other solutions?
 
Believe it or not for handgun stuff I have Lee Auto Powder Measures that I use on my Dillon 300's. They have the little disks with various holes drilled in them. The variation from charge to charge on any powder for pistol I use is virtually non existent. On my 550 I use the Dillon measure. They seem very good for consistency...

If I wanted to add a vibrating system I'd look at on mounting one of those cheep battery powder tooth brushes to the powder measure hopper/base. THe put out just enough through the handle so that should keep things shuffled down.

Your meaause does have a baffle in it right?

Gref
 
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I have gone to using the Lee Auto Disc also. Seems to be very consistent with pistol powders, from tite group to unique.
 
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In my experiments with my Uniflow, I found that dispersion doubled when I tap-a-tap-tapped at the fill end of the stroke. It was lowest when the measure operation was smoothest.
I think that sums it up pretty well .

The only time I tap my powder measure is after first fill . I'll give it several good taps to settle the powder , Then do several test throws using check weights . After that the vibration/operation of the press it self keeps it consistent as if I'm tapping it each pull . YMMV . If you just fill the hopper then dial in the charge over 10 throws or so . Depending on the powder being used , you might have another 50 throws needed to settle the powder in the hopper completely resulting in inconsistent charges throw out those 50 throws . Get the powder settled in the hopper before you start actually loading .

I'll add if you can tell the charge variance based on recoil pulse . You are either hyper sensitive ( in a good way ) to recoil or you are getting way more of a variance then your typical +/- .2gr . Do you use check weights to zero your scale to the intended charge you plan to use ? Do you then throw at least 10 throws weighing each one to check consistency before starting ? Titegroup meters great for me , I've never used WST so I don't know it's shape but changing powder to anything not fine ball powder is likely going to be a least a little less consistent .
 
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Does anyone here have some sort of vibrator on their powder measure?

I recently changed powders for my bullseye pistol loads, moving from Titegroup to WST. While my loads for 32SWL seem pretty consistent (can't tell with 38Spl, as I'm low on bullets), my 45 loads seem to be getting a lot more charge variance, based on recoil impulse (haven't chrono'd anything recently.) I'm loading on a Hornady AP progressive, and generally have one hand full of cases and the other full of bullets, so giving the measure a tap every time is less than ideal.

I was thinking about getting something like a vibrating transducer (like the thing that vibrates your cell phone) and gluing it to the base of the powder measure. Not sure it would have enough force to do much, though.

So what do others use? Any other solutions?
Look into the dandy trickler,,,I use it in conjunction with v3 autothrow and trickler system for final couple tenths…
 
I'll add if you can tell the charge variance based on recoil pulse . You are either hyper sensitive ( in a good way ) to recoil or you are getting way more of a variance then your typical +/- .2gr . Do you use check weights to zero your scale to the intended charge you plan to use ? Do you then throw at least 10 throws weighing each one to check consistency before starting ? Titegroup meters great for me , I've never used WST so I don't know it's shape but changing powder to anything not fine ball powder is likely going to be a least a little less consistent .

I can certainly tell the difference in recoil impulse: Most shots are "normal" - good stiff push, fair amount of muzzle flip, ejected case bounces decently off the stall partition. Every now and then (one in ten or fifteen) I get a shot with markedly less recoil, nearly zero muzzle flip, and the ejected case either drops next to the gun or doesn't make it out.

I do a 10 throw weight check to get the average right whenever I change the metering rotor (basically when changing calibers), and whenever the press (and I) has been idle for more than a few hours. Almost never have to adjust anything.

WST is, as I recall, roughly the same size and shape as Titegroup. Flattened disks. I went to WST after running out of TG mi-pandemic and not being able to replace it. Don't get me wrong; I can live with a little inconsistent. I'm having problems with what I believe is a fair variation here (though I haven't measured it. Yet.)

I may have to work on grafting the Lee Classic measure I've got onto the AP. Been meaning to do that for a while.
 
I forgot to mention a baffle in the powder measure can help . I use one in all my powder measures including my Hornady powder measure although the lee auto drums design seems to not need one but I have one in there as well .

You did not mention the powder measure you are using . The Hornady has a separate pistol rotor
sold separately designed for smaller charges FWIW
 
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In my experiments with my Uniflow, I found that dispersion doubled when I tap-a-tap-tapped at the fill end of the stroke. It was lowest when the measure operation was smoothest.
Wow. I never thought to compare. Maybe the tap-tap-tap thing needs to go…
 
Wow. I never thought to compare. Maybe the tap-tap-tap thing needs to go…
don't be tapping on the fill stroke bad bad you can add .5 grains easy with 3 taps..that's been my observation, on the down stroke maybe one,,,I keep the internals clean on the powder charger. where the powder enters the tube seems rust and buildup occurs there
 
I have a dillon powder measure that I took apart and polished and tuned a little. I also put an aluminum baffle in. I attach an aquarium pump with a hose clamp to the powder column.
I don't use it for pistol powder but it works well for stick powder like reloder 15, 8208 or n140
 
Spolar Gold shotgun shell loaders - which run upwards of $4,000 with their hydraulics - come with a vibrator which activates whenever the powder and shot are being released into the shell. The vibrator helps keep the primers coming down the track.
 
Somewhere in this thread or links contained in it has info on cell phone vibrators or equivalent.

 
I'm not using pistol powder in a progressive, but when I load up my Harrell's powder measure I always fill it to the very top, then thump the bottle with my hand several times to get the powder to settle out. I then add more to top it up and repeat the thumping process. Once that is done, I throw a handful of charges, then start loading. I never let the powder in the bottle drop below 3/4 full and I don't use a baffle. Gravity and pre-settled powder has worked for me. I haven't weighed a charge in the last half dozen matches or so. YMMV
 
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I found the pistol rotor for the hornady thrower to be a lot more consistent with small charges than the regular one that comes with the thrower.
 
I forgot to mention a baffle in the powder measure can help .
Good point, I mistakenly assumed the use of a baffle was a given.

Additionally, I always use the pistol (smaller diameter cavity) drum given a choice. Much of the variation in thrown charge occurs at the mouth of the cavity where the charge is separated (cut) against the measure body. A smaller diameter (deeper) cavity is better, even if two strokes are required for large cartridges.
 

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