Any change that could result in a different powder burn rate (i.e. new Lot of powder or change in primers), case volume (i.e. a new Lot of brass, or different brand of brass), or variance in bullet dimensions (i.e. new Lot of bullets), necessitates at the very minimum enough testing to determine whether the load is shooting the same as it was before the change was made.
The problem with load development procedures that use a very small number of total rounds is that almost by definition, you're testing fairly wide increments in order to cover a sufficiently wide range. Without further fine increment testing, you'll never really know where in the "window" a coarse increment load actually is. Is it right in the middle of the window? Is it right on the very edge? Obviously the latter case will be more prone to going out of tune as conditions change.
There are a variety of charge weight tests including ladders, OCW, etc. Although there are subtle differences in the testing methods, they are essentially all looking at elevation in response to varying charge weight. Both can work. BR shooters tend to favor the ladder approach. F-Class shooters tend to use either (both) approaches.
Ultimately, the key to successful testing may not necessarily be which approach you choose, but how carefully you carry out the testing and interpretation. Clearly the discipline you intend to shoot should influence your choice of methods. But it's also important to point out that with any method, testing increments cannot be too coarse, or the information you get in return is limited at best (i.e where is a given load actually located within some optimal window?). On the other hand, testing exceedingly small increments on the first pass when all you're really looking for is the right neighborhood to test further can sometimes be a waste of time and effort. I think most people try to find an acceptable balance between the two, and it may take time and experience to know in advance where that balance may be.
Regardless of the approach you choose, your initial charge weight testing should cover a sufficient charge weight range to reveal at least one potential accuracy node, maybe two or more. So you can certainly use a coarser charge weight increment such as 0.5 gr to cover a wider overall range initially and minimize the total number of rounds necessary. Regions that look promising can then be tested further in small increments to better define the boundaries of any "optimal" window you find.
Even if I don't use it, I understand the reasoning behind a "10-round" load development approach. I also have no doubt there are those that have been very successful and satisfied with this approach. However, I have gotten the feeling as this thread has progressed that you are becoming more and more lost with the process of load development. Maybe it's time to think less about the total number of rounds used for testing and focus more on a methodical stepwise and incremental approach, regardless of how many rounds it takes.
Your groups at 42.5 gr above give you a good starting reference point, even if you decide to change brass. For that reason, I would suggest trying to reproduce the 42.5 gr grouping and velocity. Changing brass will likely change case volume and therefore pressure/velocity. However, the expected changes shouldn't be huge, as 2-3 gr. It's far more likely you will observe a more subtle change. So use your 42.5 gr load as a reference or starting point, and test in finer increments (maybe 0.2 gr per test point) on either side of that, making sure you cover a sufficiently wide window in the process. I doubt you would need to test more than about 0.6 gr to either side to fully cover the window, even if it has shifted slightly to one side or the other due to using the Hornady brass. Further, your previous velocity at 42.5 gr will also be a good indicator as to what the switch to Hornady brass accomplished. Unless I'm mistaken, the Hornady brass should have greater case volume than Lapua. Therefore, you would anticipate achieving slightly lower velocity at a given charge weight. If that assumption holds, you'd know right away that you're going to need more than 42.5 gr to hit the same velocity, and can adjust the test window accordingly, if necessary. Once you find similar grouping with the new brass, you can move on to a seating depth test, at which point you ought to be close to where the rifle is shooting optimally.
From my observation, and your unexplained poi shift from a different day and those group shapes, youd be way money ahead and cut the learning curve by investing in some wind flags. Perfect practice makes perfect.
Any signs of pressure ?
May I ask why 42.5 over 42.6
Makes sense
Can I ask another question?
I think what he's trying is the method described here:
And more generally here:
https://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=satterlee+load+development+method
I think it's more of a short cut for experienced reloaders that are familiar with a given cartridge and know pretty much where they should end up. More of a verification of an existing 'pet' load in a new barrel/gun than full-on load tuning. Some people swear by it; others swear at it...
Personally I've seen enough variability in chronograph readings from one day to the next, with the *same* load, to have my doubts...
I actually like 42.5 as well, being in the middle of the obvious node.
1- I also count 12 initial shots and 28 on the last test.
2- I believe you could have done this test in 5 shots starting at 42.0 grains
3-Q Is why start the ladder at .020 jump?
Thank you for such a detailed response.
I wouldn’t say I’m lost. I enjoy the process and am gathering data in the mean time. My quest began to find the most efficient method to do so.
So starting with different brass and a different bullet, going from the hornady 140 HPBT to the 143 Eldx.
Based on all the info gathered thus far on this thread here is my plan.
Using Lapua Brass, cci srm primers, 143 eldx, and h4530, try a similar method to my original “10 round” and shoot three of each load in the ladder test. Also instead of shooting them all into one hole, I will shoot each load into its own group over a chronograph. This is a mix of the ladder test and ocw.
My plan is to start at 41.0 and load in .2gr incriminates up to 42.8.
Have I interpreted all the info correctly?
I think that's a good plan, but I would suggest using either the ladder OR OCW approach, not a combination/mix of both. The rest range and increment size you have indicated are appropriate. If you like the ladder approach, I would suggest that you simply shoot two or three separate (but otherwise identical) single shot ladder targets. Having multiple (but separate) ladders to look over should provide you with the desired answers of where your nodes are with respect to charge weight. If you prefer the OCW approach, I'd follow Erik Cortina's methodology exactly. Good luck with it.
The people who have and regularly use wind flags are shaking their heads about now.I appreciate the advice but there was no wind today or yesterday. I do agree that I need practice reading it though.
The people who have and regularly use wind flags are shaking their heads about now.
It wouldn't be a good node at that point. IMOI thought when you shoot a ladder you load up until you see signs of pressure, then back off ? What if there is a good node over your max load ?
I thought when you shoot a ladder you load up until you see signs of pressure, then back off ? What if there is a good node over your max load ?
If you go to a short range benchrest match, you will see a forest of wind flags. The one place that you will not see them is at the target. Generally, you will see four when the targets are at 100 yards. Locally, because of prevailing conditions, the nearest one will be 10-15 yards from the bench. The closer to the bench that a cross wind is, the more influence it will have at the target. Do a little experiment. Get a roll of surveyors' tape and some 4' pieces of 1x2. Sharpen one ends of the 1x2s and attach lengths of the tape to the other ends, long enough so that they hang to just above the ground with the stakes driven in enough so that they will not be blown over. Put one at ten yards, the next at thirty, the next one at fifty and the last one at seventy (all approximate) and watch them for a while. You may be surprised. Let us know what you discover. Generally, flags will not agree with each other down the line, at any given moment, but if you try to have them all in the same positions for each shot in a group, your groups will be smaller. None of us is born knowing this stuff.I can imagine my comment sounds a little ignorant but my range is lined with trees with one having branches hanging over the 100 yard target board. I usually try to use them as a guide, leaves were still today...