update: rigid reamer holder

[ELR LVR]

I like the idea that I can *lightly* withdraw the reamer before stopping the spindle as well. Using the tailstock. But if that's not been a problem with another method, that's fine, too.

Yes, I do the same - since I advance and push with the tailstock (so I can monitor depth by thousandths)
I do the same at the end of a cut and especially at the end of chamber depth
lightly back off tool pressure so the reamer stops cutting
stop spindle, then withdraw

 

[Taylorbok]

--- the path of least resistance is taken by the reamer, which is into the hole only
every chamber is true to reamer size

I've kind of thought this might be why the solid reamer in tail stock still works, there's enough flex/ play in the entire system that if everything is aligned relatively well the little bit of "float" and flex would still allow the reamer to follow the hole.

 

[AckleymanII]

Not a very good plan. Youd have to have your tailstock at the exact spot everytime cinched down with a torque wrench

Those with EARS, let them Hear!

 

[Taylorbok]

The outboard spider is not for jacking a barrel around to indicate, it for support. Without that support, your perfectly dialed barrel is no longer perfectly dialed at rpm. That is one reason I dont run a tbas.

I was under the impression that both ends got indicated in an attempt for the bore to run as true as possible to the center of the spindle but I've heard this elsewhere.

Do you just clamp down with the jaws and snug up the spider bolts where ever that end sits or how do you go about that?

I've only chambered one barrel so far as practice, it's an old barrel that I was told was shot out. I do plan to see if it shoots but if it doesn't gonna be hard to say if it's the barrel or my fault but everything works, looks and measures good.

I used a piece of copper wire around the barrel and obviously had to apply some pressure with the spider to get the angular alignment spot on.

I'd like to see how you set up a barrel

 

[Sniperhandle]

Forward the video to 12:52 where Nate tells you to use the outboard spider to support the barrel from whipping or oscillating.

 

[Taylorbok]

Forward the video to 12:52 where Nate tells you to use the outboard spider to support the barrel from whipping or oscillating.

That works for a TBAS but if running a normal 4 jaw and you run the jaws straight down on the barrel you won’t have anyway to adjust angular misalignment, or you’ll be bending the barrel. Thats why I chose to use the copper wire to give it a pivot point and use the spider to align the bore.

 

[LVLAaron]

That works for a TBAS but if running a normal 4 jaw and you run the jaws straight down on the barrel you won’t have anyway to adjust angular misalignment, or you’ll be bending the barrel. Thats why I chose to use the copper wire to give it a pivot point and use the spider to align the bore.

I dont like the copper ring thing. It moves. I have little aluminum "soft jaw" inserts on the 4-jaw that let the barrel move. Certainly requires some finesse at the final stages to make sure you aren't bending things.

One day I'll get some jaws and install bronze inserts like this:




Or a bigger lathe and a TBAS. Or a TBAS and a CNC. You never know. It's a wild time to be alive.

 

[Sniperhandle]

That works for a TBAS but if running a normal 4 jaw and you run the jaws straight down on the barrel you won’t have anyway to adjust angular misalignment, or you’ll be bending the barrel. Thats why I chose to use the copper wire to give it a pivot point and use the spider to align the bore.

I was only referring to the TBAS system, If your barrel is long enough it can be supported with the outboard spider, It may be hard to do on a Haas because of the length of the headstock though.

Many guys including myself are using the TBAS system, I don't know how drews contraption works, So I have nothing to say about it, I will say he has had some pretty cool ideas, I would imagine he will work out whatever bugs are in his system that people are complaing of.

 

[Taylorbok]

I dont like the copper ring thing. It moves. I have little aluminum "soft jaw" inserts on the 4-jaw that let the barrel move. Certainly requires some finesse at the final stages to make sure you aren't bending things.

One day I'll get some jaws and install bronze inserts like this:

View attachment 1741076


Or a bigger lathe and a TBAS. Or a TBAS and a CNC. You never know. It's a wild time to be alive.

I was thinking of doing something similar. Looks like it would work well. The copper seemed to work pretty decent but I could see potential for issues.