Ultrasonic Cleaning questions...

[alank2]

Hi,

First, thanks Jason, the Ultrasonic cleaning article is very cool.

I picked up a Harbor Freight unit to try this out and I have a few questions:

1. I have both brass and nickel plated cases. Will the cheap and shiny method work for nickel as well?

2. I noticed you go from the BC solution to hot water to then distilled water. Why the two water rinses? Can I go,1) vinegar solution,2) bc solution,3) distilled water? I plan on dunking the cases in regular water between these steps to rinse as well.

3. I've read about cases possibly being too dry. Is this an issue with the cheap and shiny method, or does the BC solution add something. A crazy idea, but could something be added to the final distilled water to add something to the cases? I have used NuFinish/PaintThinner in my tumbler, could a few drops of NuFinish be added to the distilled water to add a minor slickness to the cases?

Thanks!

Alan

 

[alank2]

Hi,

I found a place online to sell the Kimax in singles, has anyone ordered from these people:

http://tinyurl.com/2qqq7t

Thanks,

Alan

 

[alank2]

Hi,

Well, I was all ready to mix some vinegar and try my luck at ultrasonic cleaning tonight and Harbor Freight let me down. The cleaner I bought there yesterday died. It was their "Industrial" model and it ran a total of 25 minutes yesterday, but today nothing. Oddly its power switch still lights up and the timer seems to work, but no transducer action.

I guess I'll have to find another before I can try this!

Alan

 

[Magical_Merlin]

Push the little red button and see if the UC comes back on. It is the timer reset.

 

[alank2]

Hi,

Yeah, I was hoping that at first, but I noticed yesterday that there is a light on the timer which indicates when it has turned the unit off and that light isn't on. I've also tried pressing the reset and adjusting the timer wheel, both do nothing unfortunentely.

Thanks, I appreciate the help!

Alan

 

[65joe]

what size beakers work best in ultrasonic cleaner model CD-4800?
dimensions 230x180x160mm
capability: 1400ml
thanks Joe

 

[jwv2001]

I've found that plastic containers,24 oz. sour cream) and tin cans,28 oz. size)work just as well glass. They are unbreakable and easily replacable if you lose them. The small Glad storage containers also work.

 

[jb1000br]

Hi,

First, thanks Jason, the Ultrasonic cleaning article is very cool.

I picked up a Harbor Freight unit to try this out and I have a few questions:

1. I have both brass and nickel plated cases. Will the cheap and shiny method work for nickel as well?

2. I noticed you go from the BC solution to hot water to then distilled water. Why the two water rinses? Can I go,1) vinegar solution,2) bc solution,3) distilled water? I plan on dunking the cases in regular water between these steps to rinse as well.

3. I've read about cases possibly being too dry. Is this an issue with the cheap and shiny method, or does the BC solution add something. A crazy idea, but could something be added to the final distilled water to add something to the cases? I have used NuFinish/PaintThinner in my tumbler, could a few drops of NuFinish be added to the distilled water to add a minor slickness to the cases?

Thanks!

Alan

1: Don't have a clue...I don't shoot nickel

2: the BC cleaner is very sudsy - it is just an extra rinse to assure it is gone...and the extra time helps get that last little bit of carbon crud off as well. You will need more than "dunking" to get the BC cleaner rinsed off.

3: "Too dry" as in too CLEAN, affects bullet seating. "too dry" as in etched, effects primer seating. The Clean and Shiney Proc. using the BC cleaner does NOT affect primer seating. The primer seating is only affected,IME) when there is too much baking soda in the Cheap and Clean Proc.

Because it is easy to screw up the Cheap and Clean route, I'd suggest the Clean and Shiney Proc with BC cleaner. I still use this...though am planning to play with some more citric acid cleaners.

Thanks for the added experimentation guys...May have to try some gladware type containers in mine

JB

 

[alank2]

Hi JB,

2: the BC cleaner is very sudsy - it is just an extra rinse to assure it is gone...and the extra time helps get that last little bit of carbon crud off as well. You will need more than "dunking" to get the BC cleaner rinsed off.

3: "Too dry" as in too CLEAN, affects bullet seating. "too dry" as in etched, effects primer seating. The Clean and Shiney Proc. using the BC cleaner does NOT affect primer seating. The primer seating is only affected,IME) when there is too much baking soda in the Cheap and Clean Proc.

Because it is easy to screw up the Cheap and Clean route, I'd suggest the Clean and Shiney Proc with BC cleaner. I still use this...though am planning to play with some more citric acid cleaners.

I didn't know the BC would stick like that; I'll do the extra rinse.

I'm going to start with the Clean and Shiny proc for now!

BTW, Have you tried the IOSSO cleaner?

Thanks,

Alan

 

[jb1000br]

the BC cleaner doesn't "stick"

Due the the US method,=totally clean brass) sometimes the bullets gaul as they are seated,clean brass neck vs. clean copper bullet)...you don't see this with tumbled cases because it still has the carbon on the neck as a lube.

I was not saying that the extra rinse alleviated the "sticky seating" just that i do it as added insurance, and to get the last little bit of crud out.

To beat the "sticky necks" I use NECO moly dry lube from www.neconos.com - equalizes seating depths/friction etc...

HTH,
JB

 

[alank2]

Hi,

No, I just meant that I didn't think the BC would "stick" to the cases so much that you couldn't just shake them a little in water to rinse them off.

What do you think about my idea of adding a little NuFinish to the final distilled water run? Crazy?

Thanks,

Alan

 

[jb1000br]

gotcha

RE: mineral spirits in the final rinse...I really don't have a comment...try it and see what happens

JB

 

[Fred Bohl]

Ultasonic Cleaning Safety Issues

While relatively new to using ultrasonic cleaning for cartridge cases,2 years now - Thanks to Jason Barney), I have been using Ultrasonic cleaners in laboratory processes and other hobbies,model railroading) for 42 years. They are excellent tools when properly applied, but do need to be handled cautiously.

The following risks are small but potentialy serious.

Although on a microscopic level and far below the level we are accustomed to with firearms, the activity within the solution of an active ultrasonic cleaner is quite violent. This agitation can and does result in heating and breakdown of the solution constituents. For inappropriate constituents, this will reduce the vapor pressure and greatly speed up their evaporation and often also release some compounds or elements as fine aerosols. The combined result can be the creation of a dangerous cloud of combustible and/or inhalant risk material.

To minimise risk:

1. Always work in a well ventilated area.

2. Preferably use solutions and concentrations formulated for use in ultrasonic cleaners.

3. Avoid cleaning agents that contain alcohols, petroleum distillates, aromatic hydrocarbons, and VOCs,volatile organic compounds) unless specifically formulated for use in ultrasonic cleaners.

There is also a mechanical damage risk to your skin and nervous system from prolonged exposure to active ultasonic cleaning solutions.

4. Do not put you hands in the solution or hold anything in contact with the solution while the cleaner is active.

As with firearms, powder and primers - SAFETY FIRST

 

[Flybuster]

Wow, thanks for letting us know about the dangers involed, Fred I had no idea. I Got my Chicago Electric cleaner 3 weeks ago for like $28 plus shipping from Harbor frieght. I also ordered Citranox, an ultra-sonic cleaning concentrate. I ordered that from Scientific Distributors in Portland, Or. For $36.30! Solution cost more than Ultrasonic cleaner, go figure. BUT the stuff,citranox) makes up to 100 gallons of solution with just a gallon of concentrate. Let me tell you this stuff works. See im allergic to tumbler media, the walnut dust chokes me up. So this ultrasonic brass cleaning is perfect for me, I had dirty brass for along time, till now.

 

[Fred Bohl]

Flybuster

I hope that I didn't scare anyone away from ultrasonic cleaning. Many of the chemicals used in firearms care are potential health risks even without ultrasonic agitation without proper ventilation and care in use.

For example, many shooters use brake cleaners, carburetor cleaners, and even some popular "gun cleaner/scrubbers" that have in past formulations or may still do contain "chlorinated hydrocarbons" aka VOCs. Which is why many have disappeared in most states particularly in aerosol form. Prolonged exposure to inhalation,poor ventilation and/or lack of respirator/filter mask use) can lead to damage to internal organs.

Another example is one of my own mistakes. In other applications I have often used isopropyl alcohol,isopropanol) as both a solvent and more commonly to dry small parts. In high concentrations,90% or greater) it is very hygroscopic,absorbs moisture). I tried it to expedite drying cases,I'm not very patient at times) by using it in the ultrasonic cleaner to dry water rinsed cases fast. That it did but it also evaporated so fast that the smell of the isopropanol was almost over powering and made breathing strained.

The rule I use for myself is - if you can smell it during or after tryout in the ultrasonic cleaner - either don't use it or provide much better ventilation.

 

[Ron J.]

I have been reloading for more than 50 years, and my least favorite part is cleaning primer pockets. Based on what I have read, decided to try ultrasonic cleaning. I bought a large unit with 240 watts of transducer power. I bought RCBS solution, mixed it per their instruction with distilled water, heated the solution, and after 90 minutes the primer pockets still have to be mechanically cleaned. I tried soaking the cases for a couple days beforehand, but am so disappointed. I am beginning to think this is one of those products that only works on TV! I could sure use some ideas of what I am doing wrong.

 

[vulrath]

First, necrooopost.

Second, I use the Hornady one shot concentrate. In my 1L, I used a healthy splash (you sorta get a feel for it), then heat it. Cold (room temp) solution won't do much at all for primer pockets, but hot solution can be magical. Run for an 8-16 minute cycle, use a scoop to check some primer pockets and drop the good ones into a bucket of tap water, and repeat until I get satisfactory results.

So, in short, try some heat.

 

[Ron J.]

First, necrooopost.

Second, I use the Hornady one shot concentrate. In my 1L, I used a healthy splash (you sorta get a feel for it), then heat it. Cold (room temp) solution won't do much at all for primer pockets, but hot solution can be magical. Run for an 8-16 minute cycle, use a scoop to check some primer pockets and drop the good ones into a bucket of tap water, and repeat until I get satisfactory results.

So, in short, try some heat.

Sorry, did not realize anyone had responded. I did pre-heat, ran the ultrasonic cleaner with the liquid at 50 C or 122 F. Should the temp be higher than that? I ran 3 30 minute cycles with nothing like the results I expected. I have tried on both cases that were fired years ago, and ones that were fired just a couple days before with the same results. Thanks for the advice!

 

[piie]

Sorry, did not realize anyone had responded. I did pre-heat, ran the ultrasonic cleaner with the liquid at 50 C or 122 F. Should the temp be higher than that? I ran 3 30 minute cycles with nothing like the results I expected. I have tried on both cases that were fired years ago, and ones that were fired just a couple days before with the same results. Thanks for the advice!

I know this is not what you want to hear… after decapping, use a primer pocket uniformer or those small units that have the checkered face and just twist it a couple times to break the hard crust of the residue before cleaning in the sonicator. It tends to result in many more shiny pockets than without. If anything remains, it is not of a packed on nature and looks more like just a burn discoloration.

 

[vulrath]

I go to 80-100C. I don't bother breaking up the "crust" either. Most of the junk usually falls away without much effort.

Maybe try a different solution?