Turning case necks with power screwdriver?

[Chuckhunter]

Was thinking of getting a power screwdriver to turn case necks with and wondered what some of you fellows are using. I would guess that it would have to be a variable speed so you can turn slowly. A brand or model number would be very helpful. Thanks.

 

[tenring]

I use the Craftsman 3.2 volt cordless screwdriver, single speed. Priced reasonably and works good until the clutch wears out. K-Mart was selling them for $19.95. I usually buy an extra, keep one fully charged all the time.

 

[15Tango]

I'm using a drill with this: http://www.midwayusa.com/viewProduct/?productnumber=352653

and this: http://www.midwayusa.com/viewProduct/?productnumber=174316

Wayne

 

[anyrange]

Wayne,
How easy is it to tighten down on the case hard enough so the case will not slip when turning the neck. I have been thinking about getting one to try.
Larry

 

[15Tango]

Larry,

It's not difficult at all, you just chuck the thing up in a drill or whatever and those three little jaws inside go inward centering the case then as you tighten it harder the threads on the center part push that upwards giving the tension on the rim- it locks in hard. It takes some practice to get it to hold the case perfectly centered but if you're using your hand to hold the trimmer (as you should be) and doing the 'float' it doesn't matter if it's wobbling a little as it's pretty unavoidable any way you chuck it into any tool.

For about $15 for that Lee chuck you can't really go wrong, that's like half a box of bullets and it'll last a long time if not forever.

Wayne

 

[ronemus]

I tried the Lee holder, but prefer the Sinclair model; it has a short stepped post that centers on the primer pocket (the step makes it work for both large- and small-primer brass). It's better made than other models on the market, but it's also more expensive. Being from the "buy once, cry once" school, it was worth it to me. Just like their priming tool, it works extremely well. The one thing I changed was to put a piece of rubber hose over the knurling; it's much kinder to your hands when turning a large number of cases.

 

[JHardy]

I use a DeWalt screwdriver. It is higher on the price point, but I use it for other things as well.

I have used the Lee shell holder a lot for neck turning. It will hold plenty tight, but it will cut your brass up a little from time to time. I did clean up the jaws with a Dremel tool.

However, I have used the Hart version for years. It will only accept a Redding shell holder (not RCBS or Lee) but I love how quick and easy it is to get the brass in and out. I also cleaned up the lips of the Redding insert and the tightening stem with my Dremel so that they are very smooth (it only took a few moments). There are others out there, but I like this Hart most of all for neck turning.

Jim Hardy

 

[Kenny474]

For neck turning, I use the Lee 3 jaw chuck mounted in a drill modified for turning and trimming cases. I used a corded drill and made a mount for it so it sits on my bench like a mini lathe, and also removed the trigger from the drill and mounted it in a foot pedal so I have hands free speed control. I then mounted a switch on the side of the drill stand to operate the forward/reverse control so it's convenient to switch without fiddling around. That way I have both hands free and don't have to hold the drill for hours while trimming and turning. It also works for polishing cases as well.

For the few hours it took to fabricate it has made life much easier. It's far better than holding a drill or screwdriver, and is much less tiring as my arm tended to cramp up when I would hold the drill for extended periods of time. It also turns much faster than a powered screwdriver, though will also turn very slowly if needed.

I have a total of $35 invested and it works awesome.

 

[JohnnyJohnson]

I'm using the big cordless DeWalt variable drill with my K&M works slick.

 

[1shot]

It looks like we are all following the same path, more or less. After wearing out a cheaper B&D model then a heavy duty DeWalt 1/2" 18v drill I went with a Rigdid 2 speed, variable speed drill. I use the low gear for turning and the hi-speed for neck chamfering and de-burring. These drills are gear driven and although kinda pricey, I bet it never wears out. I also use the Sinclair model shell holder and a "Pumpkin" neck turner from Don Nielson. This combo has been serving me will for some time now.
I hope this helps,
Lloyd

 

[Chuckhunter]

Thanks for all of the advice and suggestions. Looks like a shopping trip for me. Really appreciate the advice.

 

[Hackberry]

I've got to go +1 on 15Tango's use of the Lee Zip Trim equipment - it works great with a variable speed drill, you can get the speed just exactly right to avoid as much wobble as possible.

 

[LHSmith]

Chuckster- I use a Hart case holder on a homemade motor drive. I tried the Lee case holder and found it did not find it to work to my satisfaction. You're welcome to try both of them.

 

[boltman13]

I use a Black & Decker cordless screw driver, which doesn't have a tremendous amount of torque, or real high speed. I use the Sinclair case holder, which holds the case very tightly. I make an initial trim with an old Forster neck turning tool and a final trim with a Sinclair. This allows me to get to my final neck thickness gradually and accurately while not using a lot of speed and torque that makes it more dificult to maintain consistancy.

 

[lightman]

I'm like Boltman,I use a Walmart B&D screwdriver with the Sinclair case holder.If you turn very many cases,an extra battery or two would be worth the cost.I like the slower speed of a screw driver over the faster drill,seems like heat is not much of a problem that way.Good Luck, Lightman

 

[4xforfun]

Dewalt cordless drill set on slow.......Sinclair's tool for holding cases...made for this reason.......I turn dry....no lube...I set the cutting tool in ice water between cases.......keeps the tool cool......very important.

 

[boltman13]

I never thought about thermal expansion. Hum. Maby since I rotate between 2 tools one cools off enough before I get back to it.

 

[ronemus]

I find that the steel cutter in my Sinclair turner stays sharp longer if I use a very light application of Imperial die wax on the case neck, and a bit on the turning mandrel reduces heating and lets the case turn smoothly.

 

[15Tango]

I run one of those nylon brushes covered in case lube inside the neck prior to turning and put a drop of lube on the mandrel as well. Lube is all over but it helps if the neck's a tight fit and helps prevent chatter or binding and reduces heat.

Wayne

 

[Kenny474]

I am of the belief that lube is required while cutting. It will keep cutting edges sharper and help keep things cool from reduced friction.
Any CNC machine you see will have multiple nozzles spraying coolant/lubricant on the tooling and stock, as well as most manual mills and lathes as well. I have found that keeping things cool and lubricated helps maintain tolerance and reduces the chance of galling and chatter.

I lube the mandrel a bit and the case necks inside and out as well. I also have a fan blowing on the case and cutting tool as well. I too use Imperial Sizing Wax. It works well and only requires a small amount.

I keep water away from things, as rust isn't fun and water is a poor lubricant and can cause galling between the case neck and mandrel. I would use a small bucket of WD-40 before I ever considered dunking my cutting tool into water. Water has no place in cutting or machining any kind of metal, they make special coolants that do the same thing without the chance of rust or corrosion.