Turn Your FX-120i into a Prometheus

[J-rod]

also, I have been tinkering with the spout in Inventor, I may have a couple different variants machined to see if I can get higher flow but then more single filing of the kernels once it slows down.

Nonetheless, I loaded up 99 rounds the other night +/- a kernel...I was done before I knew it....this thing freaken rocks. Thanks for the 3,892 time Adam!

 

[Kiba]

I think I am going to try two of these in the housing versus bearings (well at least on the O-ring side anyways)....with as little load as there is, these should work fine and I won't have to take the thing to work to have machined, I may have the right reamer. A drill bit may even work lol. I will report back if it works.
http://www.mcmaster.com/#6377k5/=13hk4fu

Rulon is a good choice and should work well, as would oilite bronze.

My bearings arrived today, going to try to spend a few minutes on the mill tomorrow. I also think you can probably get away with using just a hand drill or a drill press, but since I have access to a mill I'm going to use it. With the bearings I chose you can bore all the way through from one side without hitting the bottom of the trickler housing.

Still waiting on a tracking number for my FX-120i, been a week and it still hasn't shipped. I'm thinking Cambridge Environmental didn't actually have 17 of them in stock like their website claimed...

 

[spclark]

Still waiting on a tracking number for my FX-120i, been a week and it still hasn't shipped. I'm thinking Cambridge Environmental didn't actually have 17 of them in stock like their website claimed...

Likely as not true....

I ordered one 7/4 from scalesgalore.com, based on 1) price and 2) availability.

Was then informed they were OOS but that factory (San Jose, not Japan!) would ship no later than 7/19.

Guess what?

After no further word, early this week I checked several vendors who all reported being OOS. A couple confided factory supposed to ship new stock today.

I got word - finally yesterday - mine shipped Tuesday, on track for delivery Monday.

I think we collectively 'cleaned them out' when Adam first started shipping his invention.

Have faith! You may get a surprise on your doorstep any day now.

 

[Kiba]

Just received a tracking number this morning actually, supposed to be here Wednesday. Yay!

Guess I need to get the trickler modded for bearings and once I finish with some other hot projects in the shop (wrapping up an LS3-525 swap in a 72 Corvette that needs to leave for Hot August Nights in 4 days) then I'll get back on the automatic bulk dispenser. Electronics and software is sorted, but Revision 1 of the mechanicals (which I assumed would be the easy part) did not work as anticipated thanks to excessive friction in the Redding 3BR.

 

[r1200mike]

Here is something pretty interesting.

Would the stickers on the cartridge case cause problems ? Bet that is pricey !

 

[IPSCNUT]

Likely as not true....

I ordered one 7/4 from scalesgalore.com, based on 1) price and 2) availability.

Was then informed they were OOS but that factory (San Jose, not Japan!) would ship no later than 7/19.

Guess what?

After no further word, early this week I checked several vendors who all reported being OOS. A couple confided factory supposed to ship new stock today.

I got word - finally yesterday - mine shipped Tuesday, on track for delivery Monday.

I think we collectively 'cleaned them out' when Adam first started shipping his invention.

Have faith! You may get a surprise on your doorstep any day now.

Just received a tracking number this morning actually, supposed to be here Wednesday. Yay!

Guess I need to get the trickler modded for bearings and once I finish with some other hot projects in the shop (wrapping up an LS3-525 swap in a 72 Corvette that needs to leave for Hot August Nights in 4 days) then I'll get back on the automatic bulk dispenser. Electronics and software is sorted, but Revision 1 of the mechanicals (which I assumed would be the easy part) did not work as anticipated thanks to excessive friction in the Redding 3BR.

Rulon is a good choice and should work well, as would oilite bronze.

My bearings arrived today, going to try to spend a few minutes on the mill tomorrow. I also think you can probably get away with using just a hand drill or a drill press, but since I have access to a mill I'm going to use it. With the bearings I chose you can bore all the way through from one side without hitting the bottom of the trickler housing.

Still waiting on a tracking number for my FX-120i, been a week and it still hasn't shipped. I'm thinking Cambridge Environmental didn't actually have 17 of them in stock like their website claimed...

Is the name of the thread "When will I receive my FX-120i?" Why in the hell would you order a trickler and not have a scale?

 

[spclark]

Why in the hell would you order a trickler and not have a scale?

Well, since you asked... in my case I already have a scale (two actually; one's been back in the box since the first week I used it years ago, the other's incompatible with Adam's device) and a trickler.

If things had gone as I'd expected the new scale would have arrived before Adam's parcel.

 

[Cujo]

My bearings arrived today, going to try to spend a few minutes on the mill tomorrow. I also think you can probably get away with using just a hand drill or a drill press, but since I have access to a mill I'm going to use it. With the bearings I chose you can bore all the way through from one side without hitting the bottom of the trickler housing.

I have a question for Kiba. . .

I received the 2 sealed bearings in the mail yesterday. Man are those things skinny and small! Anyhow, I plan on milling the body, press fitting the bearings in, and holding them in place with green Loctite (609). The white spacer included with Adam's kit looks like it'll still work. The other is needed to turn the tube.

I was wondering what your thoughts are on using green Loctite to permanently affix the powder tube to the bearings? Then you could get rid of one of Adam's white spacers and the shaft would completely turn on the bearings with no slippage. I'm kind of leaning this way.

I'm looking forward to your bearing install. . . For some reason, I can't picture it. Where were you able to source the spacers, wave spring washer and locking collar? A local hobby store?

Thanks!

 

[jlow]

I have a question for Kiba. . .

I received the 2 sealed bearings in the mail yesterday. Man are those things skinny and small! Anyhow, I plan on milling the body, press fitting the bearings in, and holding them in place with green Loctite (609). The white spacer included with Adam's kit looks like it'll still work. The other is needed to turn the tube.

I was wondering what your thoughts are on using green Loctite to permanently affix the powder tube to the bearings? Then you could get rid of one of Adam's white spacers and the shaft would completely turn on the bearings with no slippage. I'm kind of leaning this way.

I'm looking forward to your bearing install. . . For some reason, I can't picture it. Where were you able to source the spacers, wave spring washer and locking collar? A local hobby store?

Thanks!

I was wondering about the same thing i.e. how you guys are going to install the bearings.

Cujo – I am not sure green Loctite is meant to hold this type of setup. I’ve used it in the past but it has always been on threads since it is made for wicking application. One could try to glue it with epoxy but that would make removal difficult. I am thinking perhaps something like 3-4 small clips that could hold the sides and is screwed into the trickler itself?

I’ve looked at Kiba’s setup and that I think is a little easier as they seem to be only ¼” in length. A slightly undersized hole that is large enough diameter wise one way would work as you could press them in and the white spacers could be used as retainers?

Just throwing ideas out there as I have been thinking about the same questions.

 

[spclark]

My bearings (what Kiba spec'd) arrived today.

I'm planning on using JB Weld to secure them while a 5/16" drill rod holds bearings on axis. Red or blue Loctite'd probably work too but I have more JB than either of those.

Not thought about thrust washers or keepers (Belleville or wave washers, shaft collars - maybe McMaster?) yet but maybe tomorrow.

 

[jlow]

My bearings (what Kiba spec'd) arrived today.

I'm planning on using JB Weld to secure them while a 5/16" drill rod holds bearings on axis. Red or blue Loctite'd probably work too but I have more JB than either of those.

Not thought about thrust washers or keepers (Belleville or wave washers, shaft collars - maybe McMaster?) yet but maybe tomorrow.

Sounds like a good plan. Tell us how it works out.

 

[Kiba]

Is the name of the thread "When will I receive my FX-120i?" Why in the hell would you order a trickler and not have a scale?

Maybe because I received the trickler from Adam before my backordered FX-120i arrived? You quoted several of my posts, that info was in there.

Anyways, back to trickler mods.

You want to use retaining compound loctite-- not threadlocker. Can't just go by color with Loctite as there are literally dozens of formulations with different applications that share colors; for example 609 and 648 are green and are retaining compounds for unthreaded sleeves and bushings while 290 is a low viscosity medium-high strength wicking threadlocker that is also green.

Retaining compound is made to hold close slip fit sleeves and bushings and it holds VERY well when the surfaces are cleaned and prepped. 609 or 648 is what I recommend. 648 is higher temp rated than 609 but not needed for this application. Any local auto parts store will have it, they may have the Permatex branded stuff though; just look for "sleeve retaining compound." Smear a tiny bit on the OD of the bearing and ID of the trickler housing and slide it in and let it set; have the trickler shaft installed through both bearings while the loctite sets to maintain axial alignment. Using retaining compound to hold the trickler tube to the bearings will work and remove all slop but if you want to disassemble it in the future you'll probably be breaking out the heat gun to soften the loctite, it holds extremely well.

I picked up the shaft spacers, wave washer, and split collar from McMaster-Carr. Didn't have time to machine it today, might get it machined and assembled tomorrow then I can post pictures. Too many projects fighting for time right now!

 

[spclark]

Sounds like a good plan. Tell us how it works out.

Took about an hour this morning to get this done, short the twenty minutes I left the epoxy set up. (Hint: cover both sides of bearings with masking tape before applying glue.)

Didn't like the condition my only 1/2" drill bit is in for final bore so I went shy with next smaller size (31/64") then used a tapered reamer to enlarge sufficient to accept bearings.

Had some 1/4" ID o-rings (left from a faucet fix) that seem to work fine as spacers, will know more once my FX120i arrives next week.

Any users out there modify their tricker to increase / decrease pitch of discharge tube? Across the bowl top I got +0.7° left side high, pitch at tube shows +0.2° above 0°.

 

[boltfluter]

Took about an hour this morning to get this done, short the twenty minutes I left the epoxy set up. (Hint: cover both sides of bearings with masking tape before applying glue.)

Didn't like the condition my only 1/2" drill bit is in for final bore so I went shy with next smaller size (31/64") then used a tapered reamer to enlarge sufficient to accept bearings.

Had some 1/4" ID o-rings (left from a faucet fix) that seem to work fine as spacers, will know more once my FX120i arrives next week.

Any users out there modify their tricker to increase / decrease pitch of discharge tube? Across the bowl top I got +0.7° left side high, pitch at tube shows +0.2° above 0°.

View attachment 986209 View attachment 986208

That is quite the setup. Very nice. How about a small video of it in action.

Regards, Paul

www.boltfluting.com

 

[Cujo]

Any users out there modify their tricker to increase / decrease pitch of discharge tube? Across the bowl top I got +0.7° left side high, pitch at tube shows +0.2° above 0°.

Nice job on your mod! The O-rings look like a good idea. Sourcing the other parts from M-C gets kind of expensive if you only need a couple of pieces.

Anyhow, Adam recommended placing a piece of tape underneath the stand to get the angle you need. I had some electrical tape lying on the bench and it works great.

 

[spclark]

I had some electrical tape lying on the bench and it works great.

Yeah I tried shimming with paper when I was twisting the handle by hand, see how things function. Seemed to work, anxious to see how it works run off the FX120i due Monday.

I'm headed to Lodi Monday, help finish off the SMT installation there. I'll be awhile before I can get my scale unpacked & warmed up, get Adam's controller installed & programmed. Be patient! I plan an "old vs. new" loading session to compare time savings once I get everything working.

 

[mgdietrich]

Just loaded 200 rounds of 6br with mine tonight. Works well.

For those of us who are using two pans, not starting from zero weight, I did notice a little drift. Might be a good idea to start from zero every 10 rounds or so since the scale is supposed to auto zero. I will try to remember that next time.

 

[jlow]

Just loaded 200 rounds of 6br with mine tonight. Works well.

For those of us who are using two pans, not starting from zero weight, I did notice a little drift. Might be a good idea to start from zero every 10 rounds or so since the scale is supposed to auto zero. I will try to remember that next time.

Mgdletrich – I’ve not had a problem but if you want to check to see if the FX-120a has drifted, there is a different way to do this.
What I do is to write down the weight of the pans (they should be exactly the same) and so when I take off the pan, I look at that number on the FX-120A display (should give you a negative of that number) to make sure it has not changed.

I think I have mentioned that I double check each weight when I use the FX-120A/autotrickler. I used to weight the prime case with and without powder, enter those numbers in Excel and have it calculate the difference (which should be the targeted powder weight), well that of course is slow due to the two extra weighting and of course entering the numbers into the computer.

I am now using a new method which is much faster. Basically I take the autotrickled charge and place the pan on the GemPro250 that has been tarred to the pan, before I check the number, I put the second pan with a partial weight on to the FX-120A/autotricker and get that going. Look back to check weight on the Gempro, if correct remove pan with correct powder weight and pour in case and cap case with a bullet, repeat.

This is much faster but still let me double check and do quick adjust if necessary with a pair of tweezer. About 30 seconds for the whole cycle.

 

[Twoboxer]

. . .
I am now using a new method which is much faster. Basically I take the autotrickled charge and place the pan on the GemPro250 that has been tarred to the pan, before I check the number, I put the second pan with a partial weight on to the FX-120A/autotricker and get that going. Look back to check weight on the Gempro, if correct remove pan with correct powder weight and pour in case and cap case with a bullet, repeat.. . .

When the GemPro disagrees with the A&D, which one is wrong? FWIW I'll stick with the scale that I bought because the others - including the GemPro - didn't satisfy me.

 

[jlow]

When the GemPro disagrees with the A&D, which one is wrong? FWIW I'll stick with the scale that I bought because the others - including the GemPro - didn't satisfy me.

That's just it, they don't usually disagree. When they do, it is within +/- 0.02 grains. I did not buy the FX-120A because I found it inaccurate, I brought it only to allow me to use the autotrickler.