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Tuner adjustment on the target

Group Zero
and Group 14
looks like it came full circle
is this one full rev or?
Can you tell me the distance the tuner moved in thousandths along the barrel length from the 0 to 14 mark?
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Great info here
Actually, I think I like 2 for a couple of reasons. Remember, I did say to only look at group SHAPES in that post. That's why. The groups I referred to are textbook. The 2,3,4 settings are near top and a bit less definitive but the shots seem to go with a condition as opposed to say, 8-2 o'clock in a rh twist bbl. Which, is apparently not physically possible due to wind alone. So, tune would be questionable if you get diagonal groups that go up and to the right(down and left is same). Bottom line is, I used the three groups at 10,11 and 12 because they are so well defined and exactly what I look for.

fwiw, another reason that I like number 2 is because it SHOULD be about 8 marks between sweet spots with my tuner...and of course 2 to10 is about just that. I'd re-shoot around setting 2. I bet it would repeat and look more like settings 10-12..
 
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Not much time today. Still cleaning up from the storms Friday night.
It really doesn't matter if the target is this sine test or if it's fired in a match, the group SHAPES still happen in the same progression. The sine test just offers more info to work from, but not needed once tuned for a given load...Maybe more on that later but I've discussed it many, many times on here.

For the context of your question, just look at 10, 11, and 12 on here. Forget everything except group SHAPE! This is EXACTLY what I look for the groups to do, moving MY standard tuner ONE mark at a time.

In this very clear(to me) example, if I get vertical(11), I'd move the tuner IN one mark. If I get 12, I move in two marks. The beauty of the sine test is it shows you how far, which way, top and bottom of swing, as well as mark values and how far between sweet spots. You must establish mark values relative to group shapes or else, you're guessing, no matter what tuner or who it is shooting.

Yessir!!! It IS that predictable too!

Later!

View attachment 1661577
How many marks for a full rotation? What is the thread pitch?
 
How many marks for a full rotation? What is the thread pitch?
My standard model has 7/8-32 TPI and has 32 marks. So essentially. .001 per mark. Sorry...I forgot to mention that in the other post.

But again...my two models are even different... But because it was important to me that 1 mark should equal 1 mark on both models...the lighter tuner which is 2 ounces lighter only has 10 full marks. So, roughly .00325(three and a quarter thou) per number. Pretty amazing how much difference there can be with relatively little change. That's why different makes of tuners may well and possibly should have different instructions for how to use them. That's also why I try to be clear with most every post that they are most relevant to MY tuners but others may see benefit from moving in smaller increments as well. By FAR the most common mistake with a tuner is moving them ridiculuosly too far at a time.
 
Not much time today. Still cleaning up from the storms Friday night.
It really doesn't matter if the target is this sine test or if it's fired in a match, the group SHAPES still happen in the same progression. The sine test just offers more info to work from, but not needed once tuned for a given load...Maybe more on that later but I've discussed it many, many times on here.

For the context of your question, just look at 10, 11, and 12 on here. Forget everything except group SHAPE! This is EXACTLY what I look for the groups to do, moving MY standard tuner ONE mark at a time.

In this very clear(to me) example, if I get vertical(11), I'd move the tuner IN one mark. If I get 12, I move in two marks. The beauty of the sine test is it shows you how far, which way, top and bottom of swing, as well as mark values and how far between sweet spots. You must establish mark values relative to group shapes or else, you're guessing, no matter what tuner or who it is shooting.

Yessir!!! It IS that predictable too!

Later!

View attachment 1661577
Very impressive
 
I think the big thing with a tuner is you need to know how to use it. That means spending the time and resources to get yourself comfortable with it’s operation.

Then having the intestinal fortitude to move it when conditions dictate.

CW

Edit to correct spelling. darn autocorrect!!!
 
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Should one test tuners at range....ie....test at 600 for 600 yard matches. I am just about to re-test mine after taking it apart last year...because I am stupid. :oops:

Thanks,
Tod
My two cents is yes, for any fine tuning purposes. But the 100 yard test shows a lot of info that's tough to reliably replicate at distance but is critical to know and gives a base setting to start with.
 
Actually, I think I like 2 for a couple of reasons. Remember, I did say to only look at group SHAPES in that post. That's why. The groups I referred to are textbook. The 2,3,4 settings are near top and a bit less definitive but the shots seem to go with a condition as opposed to say, 8-2 o'clock in a rh twist bbl. Which, is apparently not physically possible due to wind alone. So, tune would be questionable if you get diagonal groups that go up and to the right(down and left is same). Bottom line is, I used the three groups at 10,11 and 12 because they are so well defined and exactly what I look for.

fwiw, another reason that I like number 2 is because it SHOULD be about 8 marks between sweet spots with my tuner...and of course 2 to10 is about just that. I'd re-shoot around setting 2. I bet it would repeat and look more like settings 10-12..
I still like Group #14 and would go with that and test repeatability.
And yes I am looking at group shape
I like to see a nice round clustered group if it is spread at all
as opposed to / a tight 2 in one hole with 1 oddball outside the group.
and I'd adjust scope 1 click down and left to compensate for any POI difference,
Forget where the group lands, if all shots are accurate... that's what the scope turrets are for
#14 is a nice tight clustered group
But I could be wrong, since I'm not a Tuner guy ... yet
--- You have more experience there
I do see #2 has some good elevation/waterline characteristics
Is this what you are looking at? regardless of the spread being bigger than #14?
I have a tuner, but have not attached it to any rifle yet as I am still learning all this tuner stuff.
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Now is Group #0 just one shot?
Because that is obviously the tightest of them all if it's 3 shots.
If I could get all my guns to shoot like that I'd be exstatic
Unfortunately, my factory stocked light barrel guns
only shoot about this good during ladder test work ups

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First, I never use the tuner to get a load. When using the tuner to get back in tune if I feel the tune is going away I have found 200 yards shows minute changes a bit better than 100 for tuning the load. As always using wind flags to verify shooting in the same condition or your wasting components while getting bad information.I don't tune beyond 200 as I feel conditions become too big a factor.I retune by bumping either direction. If its getting worse going one direction that tells you in a bumb or 2 you need to go the opposite way. I have never adjusted during a match. Too me that means I was ill prepared and desperate, lol. I try ro avoid that. Bob Green who made mine does that but he has a lot more experience that I do. I do what has worked for me for years.
 
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