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Tumbling With SS Pins? Check Out This Site.

I don't use stainless pins but I clean the neck to bright shiney. I use a bond break on the inside of neck. My buddy which has done really good, uses pins. He also uses a bond break. He says the secret is, you need it full of pins. I just dont like the idea of my brass getting hit by pins. Shiny brass shoots no better. Matt
 
Ok, I understand Donovan has a point his rifle groups better with the carbon left in the neck. The question is how much better? As for seating force I'm missing something. If it takes say 20lbs of force to seat a bullet in a carbon plated neck obtaining .002 neck tension and 50lbs of force for a clean neck obtaining .002 neck tension what's the difference? It will take the same amount of pressure in both cases to release the bullet.
 
If it takes say 20lbs of force to seat a bullet in a carbon plated neck obtaining .002 neck tension and 50lbs of force for a clean neck obtaining .002 neck tension what's the difference? It will take the same amount of pressure in both cases to release the bullet.
I have no proof or data, but it seems to me that the ultra clean neck would present a higher coefficient of friction, and would indeed need much more pressure to force the bullet out of the neck.
 
@jr600yd

How little or how much will it help you, is dependent on your own circumstances and accuracy levels.
Know a good way for you to find out for yourself, that will be true to your own circumstances and techniques:
* by testing yourself. For the correct answer(s) is an individual response.


"The will to win has little to do with the will to prepare to win."
Donovan
 
DOCUMENTED non-issue with full size pins, now can a smaller "pin" be an issue. pure bs.
I've used his media. The brass was so frickin clean I couldn't believe it. Very fast too. He uses this for cleaning grimy, mucky, dirty horrible auction brass.

On the other hand, I believe it is too aggressive for the precision crowd. The jagged edges "peen" the brass and it then picks up contaminants so easily that it ends up working against you. So my advice is, if your brass never touches the ground, and you want the shiniest brass despite potential downside, this is the media for you.

I went back to corncob to maintain that beautiful black shadow inside the necks.
 
DOCUMENTED non-issue with full size pins, now can a smaller "pin" be an issue. pure bs.

What are you calling BS about in my post? Did you mean to quote something specific about the product you've never tried or experimented with?
 
I used the "new" media from sleepinggiant - firstly, it is dirty as all get out so took a while to get the oil/grease out of it - then tumbled (+lemishime and dawn) some 6.5x47L (approx 130 cases) - good news is no stuck pins either in the flash holes or wedged in the necks - seems to clean pretty well - I used 6.5lb's in my tumbler , I'l have to figure out what tumbling times look like, but 2 hours got my brass clean and shock horror all the carbon out of the necks - neck peening on the other hand did not seem to be as bad as with the pins, so final prep before loading was in terms of effort less. YMMV.
 
FWIW... try tumbling with pins only before annealing. Eliminates any contamination concerns and cleans the primer pockets.
 
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Bought some of this. Works ok, but it is too small. My inside necks did NOT get cleaned out, so the carbon removal thing was a non issue with me. It works, but no better than the SS stems I was using before.
 
Hummm.....I wonder? If so what’s the difference in group size on target?

I’ve tested it with brass that was spotless of carbon in the necks cleaned with ultrasound.
I don’t have the targets anymore but the results were obvious. I was surprised however that the results weren’t nearly as dramatic is I thought they would be. They vertical opened up like you would expect but only about twice as much @ 600.
It’s a pretty simple test to do, swab the carbon out of a handful of cases and have a shoot off.
 
I've been interested in wet tumbling for a while, but was hesitant to use media that could lodge in a case and potentially damage a bore if fired. I found stainless balls used as polishing media by jewelers, and bought the 1 mm size because they're too small to lodge in any part of the case, and they're small enough to do a fairly good job of cleaning primer pockets. They aren't as aggressive as pins, so more time is needed; 1 hr wasn't enough but 4 hr did a good job - the outside is like new, all carbon is removed from the inside (rough, not shiny), and primer pockets are mostly clean. The balls I bought range in size from 0.5 to 1.5 mm, and the largest ones could lodge in a flash hole, but that's not a problem for me because I ream all of my flash holes to 0.0625" - YMMV. So far I'm really liking the process.
 
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I used some "chipc" from southern shine media. Hated the stuff! Water tension would cause it to cling to the inside of case walls. Even after drying I would find some in the dryer and when I found some in the bottom of a case, that was it. got rid of it and bought new pins. After 2 years, I found a chip in the tumbler yesterday. Those things could ruin an expensive barrel and possibly a die also. Pins can be had in various length. Found one in a primer pocket yesterday but no big deal to pop it out during inspection. All part of the process.
 
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DOCUMENTED1111 That means that someone posted something on the net that agreed with the point you were trying to make. And we all know that every thing on the net is factchecked by a panel of experts. I do water and pins on bad dirty range brass. But I find that it is so clean that it tarnishes faster than brass hat I do in walnut shell media, because I add nu finish polish or Dillon polish to the media. It seems to add a protective finish that keeps it nice longer. And now that a crippled, crazy red neck took the time to post this IT IS DOCUMENTED!!! The panel of experts will be here this afternoon.
 
I recently switched from dry cleaning to wet (Frankford Arsenal). I don't use pins. I made the switch due to concerns with lead dust. I've been shooting and reloading for 30 years. I happy with the change but agree that drying can be a pain. I have so much brass that I only need to do large batches every other month or so and that give the brass plenty of time to dry out. I use a cleaning solution and water. Not concerned about primer pockets. Never had an issue there. Some of my handgun brass has been loaded more the 20 times. I have less reloads on my rifle brass but that is changing since I switched from competitive hand gun to rifle shooting (223, 6.5 308)
 

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