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trouble seating primers in LC brass

I need some guidance on seating primers in LC brass. I took pains to cut away the crimp. Using a Lee priming tool and CCI primers. When seating require high force and then snap in suddenly. resulting in misfires. I think the pellet inside is often cracking up. Will a primer pocket uniformer help? When I use Lapua brass everything is smooth and results in good( no misfires) results. Is this typical of LC brass
 
I need some guidance on seating primers in LC brass. I took pains to cut away the crimp. Using a Lee priming tool and CCI primers. When seating require high force and then snap in suddenly. resulting in misfires. I think the pellet inside is often cracking up. Will a primer pocket uniformer help? When I use Lapua brass everything is smooth and results in good( no misfires) results. Is this typical of LC brass
The primer pocket uniformer will likely help & I use one on all my brass
 
If you feel a snap, or hangup, you do not have your crimp removal operation done properly. I have the Dillon Superswage. It works ok, but I would prefer something else, maybe the crimp reamer for my Wilson Trimmer. After using the swaging method, I would rather have a reamer or cutter. I am not a big fan of putting sideways force on the sides of the primer pocket mouth. If you do not have a dedicated crimp removal tool, get one and try doing the cases again.

The only thing a primer pocket uniformer will do is to ensure that your primer pockets are of the proper depth to properly seat a primer. You should be using one, but it will not help with your issue.

Danny
 
If it is snapping and going in that hard, you need to ream and decrimp much better. Get yourself a good de-crimping die set up like RCBS or a couple other make and you will solve your issues.
 
I've used a few different methods of crimp removal, and I like the LE Wilson reamer best. Its slow, tedious and works perfect on each and every case.
 
I have a Lyman Case Prep center that removes the crimp pretty well and has other functions also. A couple of seconds and the crimp is gone.
 
I've used a few different methods of crimp removal, and I like the LE Wilson reamer best. Its slow, tedious and works perfect on each and every case.

Thanks for your mini review. I figured that the Wilson remover should be one of the best to make a perfect and smooth entry. I feel that reaming is a better solution than swaging.

Danny
 
If you do not have a lot of cases to do I like the tool below chucked in a drill. The cutter only removes the crimp and does not contact the sides of the primer pocket.

TRIM MATE MILITARY CRIMP REMOVER-2
https://www.rcbs.com/case-prep/trim/trim-mate-military-crimp-remover-2/354051.html


RC_90386_MilitaryCrimpRemover_small_single_C.jpg

If you have a lot of cases to do these type of tools will cause sore fingers. Meaning getting a more costly swager for large batches will save you from sore hands and fingers.

How to Remove the Primer Crimp in Military Cartridge Brass
http://bulletin.accurateshooter.com...the-primer-crimp-in-military-cartridge-brass/


rcbsnew01.jpg


 
Just a tip for the swaging route (I use the Dillion SS 600); debur the flash hole first, so you're consistently pushing the swager against the case, rather than potentially against a primer hole burr.
 
I just have a Lyman reamer with a handle. It was wearing out my fingers, so I unscrewed the bit and chucked it in a drill. Place the drill on low speed, controlling the trigger with your weak hand thumb. Hold the case with your strong hand. A few turns, quick and consistent.
 
I chuck the RCBS crimp cutter in a drill press at low speed. You can process a lot of cases quickly. Works very well, I do the same thing with a chamfer cutter for case mouths as well.
 
Just a tip for the swaging route (I use the Dillion SS 600); debur the flash hole first, so you're consistently pushing the swager against the case, rather than potentially against a primer hole burr.

How can that occur ? The swager goes into the primer cup and removes the crimp, does not enter the inside of the cartridge case, from the mouth of the case and inside, where the flash hold burrs are.
 
How can that occur ? The swager goes into the primer cup and removes the crimp, does not enter the inside of the cartridge case, from the mouth of the case and inside, where the flash hold burrs are.

The two swage dies I have came with a pin that goes down the case neck and rests/stops at the flash hole inside the case to support the nipple that comes up into the primer pocket when the ram is raised to move the crimp out of the way.
 
The two swage dies I have came with a pin that goes down the case neck and rests/stops at the flash hole inside the case to support the nipple that comes up into the primer pocket when the ram is raised to move the crimp out of the way.

This is the way my Dillon works as well. I've never had a problem with a primer going in with a snap or being hard to seat and I've swaged thousands of LC.
 
You should also get a swage gage from Ballistic Tools to check your pockets before trying to seat a primer. It will help you sort out the cases that need more work done to the pockets.
 
I just have a Lyman reamer with a handle. It was wearing out my fingers, so I unscrewed the bit and chucked it in a drill. Place the drill on low speed, controlling the trigger with your weak hand thumb. Hold the case with your strong hand. A few turns, quick and consistent.
that's exactly what I use in a drill press run it in till it stops primers seat perfect...also use a hand drill in the ac when it's hot in the shop
 
I have the RCBS Tool and the K&M Tool they work well .
Then I ordered New LC Brass !!!
The Time spent on primer pockets is $$$ ?
Then there is the pulled Rims on many cases fired in a SAW ?

Best of Luck
 

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