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Torque Wrench?

So then using an air impact and counting the "doot-doots" after the screw stops turning is no good ?
Nope just keep turning them until they're 1/4 turn from snapping off!

On a serious note, a torque wrench is the way to go, and the FAT is great bang for the buck.
 
"So then using an air impact and counting the "doot-doots" after the screw stops turning is no good ?"

That method only works on 105 Howitzers.
 
I have the FAT. I wouldn't buy it again. It does not have an index mark or graduations on the dial like this one does:

https://www.protorquetools.com/cdi-...BdA3jE78m2r8czegJAjYSc2qYpgz34FBoCZ4gQAvD_BwE

I am never really sure exactly what torque I am setting it on. I think I can get to approximately the torque I want based on just the main dial setting, but only approximately. I ended up assingning a self-made index mark on my knob, as well.

Oh, I no longer use a torque wrench to tighten scope ring screws, either. I once collapsed a new Nikon scope tube using some of the typically described torque values. People will disagree saying that they have not had that happen, but....I don't think that torque on a screw is applicable in this scenario. If the scope ring halves would be mated together, a torque setting would be applicable, but that scenario isn't what is happening. What you are really doing is pulling the ring halves together. Some ring designs bend more freely than others for a given torque on the screw(s). In those designs, you are more likely to bend/flex the rings and ding or collapse the tube. In short, in our application, you aren't really torquing and stretching the screw, which is what is the usual desired effect, you may be to a lesser or greater degree flexing ring halves. You really don't want flex.

Danny
 
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I've got a Wera. I bought it years before Wheeler began to market their Fat Wrench. Just as a side note, I'd much rather send a few 'bucks' to a European manufacturer than I would send those dollars the 'other' direction.
 
Dial types like SnapOn Torque-O-Meter are without a doubt the most accurate. Ask any gauge-cal guy.

Those needles bounce all over the place while you are torquing. You start getting close, then the torque starts peaking, the fastener breaks free and the needle bounces. Torque again, get closer, then it repeats over and over.

Danny
 
Those needles bounce all over the place while you are torquing. You start getting close, then the torque starts peaking, the fastener breaks free and the needle bounces. Torque again, get closer, then it repeats over and over.

Danny
Not mine. It just take a steady hand to use them.
 

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