Anyone went hands on with one of these?
Tormek T1 sharpener?
- Thread starter J.d. Popkes
- Start date
I have a T8 with tons of jigs & accessories and really like the process and results. The T1 is totally different, meant for simplicity and single task - kitchen knives. I assume you've read a bit about it, such as from the Tormek web site and are looking for hands on reactions. Tormek has a user forum, where the T1 and T2 are highlighted in a specific subforum. If you are willing to put in some time reading, you can learn quite a bit about it from actual users. You can view and read all you want, and even explore the broader world of Tormek, particularly in the Knife Sharpening subforum. But, in order to view images and/or search or post questions, one has to be a member.
My view of the T1 is that it is on the order of those small spinning grinding disc, countertop sharpeners that do nothing but destroy an edge, but that the T1 would actually do a darn good job of sharpening and not destroying an edge - and thus, if that is all you are interested in for sharpening kitchen knives - probably a far better option. Know this - that it only sharpens an existing, decent beveled blades. It does not repair knicks and chips, which can be common.
However, if you might possibly be sucked into sharpening hunting knives, utility tools like Leatherman, you might be better served with at T4. About $160 more, but FAR more versatile, well beyond knives even. It also can do repairs. There would be additional cost to get the knife sharpening jig ($63) and an updated angle setting tool ($54). There is also the "Bushcraft" model that comse comes with the knife jig, as well as an axe jig, but I think it is better to get a basic machine and select only the jigs and accessories that you need/want.
However, be forewarned, getting into Tormeks can be another rabbit hole.
Rick
My view of the T1 is that it is on the order of those small spinning grinding disc, countertop sharpeners that do nothing but destroy an edge, but that the T1 would actually do a darn good job of sharpening and not destroying an edge - and thus, if that is all you are interested in for sharpening kitchen knives - probably a far better option. Know this - that it only sharpens an existing, decent beveled blades. It does not repair knicks and chips, which can be common.
However, if you might possibly be sucked into sharpening hunting knives, utility tools like Leatherman, you might be better served with at T4. About $160 more, but FAR more versatile, well beyond knives even. It also can do repairs. There would be additional cost to get the knife sharpening jig ($63) and an updated angle setting tool ($54). There is also the "Bushcraft" model that comse comes with the knife jig, as well as an axe jig, but I think it is better to get a basic machine and select only the jigs and accessories that you need/want.
However, be forewarned, getting into Tormeks can be another rabbit hole.
Rick
Thank you. Appreciate the links. Wow.
I’m just looking for something that will maintain pocket knives and kitchen knives.
I have been using the mdf/paper wheels. They work. I’m interested in repeatability and consistency on my angle. And those paper ones can get out of balance and wobbly.
I’m trying my best to avoid a new rabbit hole for once. $400 vs who knows what with jigs etc.
Might you already be down that hole...? Paper wheels alone? What else are you doing? In my world, paper wheels are for the polishing and honing steps. I tried them once and they did come with abrasives that had to be "glued" on, that were for grinding I think (but never tried that as I have the Tormek grinding wheels). Never liked paper wheels because they were so difficult to true and balance, so never really used them. I also didn't like anything that created heat, or the possibility of heat that can destroy the blade temper. Nothing in the Tormek process comes close to that.
After grinding to create the bevel and create the burr, I use a 4000 grit Japanese waterstone wheel and then a rock hard felt wheel with 1µ diamond paste for deburring and that followed by a hanging leather strop.
Be careful about the T1 and TR2 when it comes to short blades like pocket knives. I have no experience with either, but my sense of them is they have guides that may prevent getting the full length of the blades to the grinding wheel. These guides are fixed-attached-machine-can't-be-used-without-them.
Looking around on this, I found a FAQ for the T1. Might be helpful.
OK, I be wrong here
"The T2 can handle the majority of kitchen and pocket knives with little or no adjustments. Even cleavers are easily done with a modicum of practice. It really shines with steak knives."
OK, I be wrong here. Did a search on "pocket" in the T1 and T2 subforum
"The T2 can handle the majority of kitchen and pocket knives with little or no adjustments. Even cleavers are easily done with a modicum of practice. It really shines with steak knives."
If I can avoid buying jigs and extra wheels, while still getting a nice edge, no water mess, not having to true up the stone(another jig), and keeping it around $400, it’d be preferable.
I’ll start reading from the links you’ve provided. I really appreciate all the information!!
Sounds like you have a decent handle on things.
I have a T4 and it is nice. It still takes some experience to get the best results. Very good on axes, mower blades, knives etc.
I don't use mine much, and it was pretty pricey, and takes up bench space.
Anyway I am glad I did not get the larger T8.
I think there are generic versions from wen?, maybe a clone for limited use? My T4 is overkill for me, but cry once is a good philosophy.
I don't use mine much, and it was pretty pricey, and takes up bench space.
Anyway I am glad I did not get the larger T8.
I think there are generic versions from wen?, maybe a clone for limited use? My T4 is overkill for me, but cry once is a good philosophy.
What's your reasoning behind those statements? Not sure why it wouldn't.
Thanks.
T-8 owner here, but it doesn't get used much.
Reasonable question. T1's grinding wheel is diamond 600 grit.
My experience has been that the Tormek diamond grinding wheel at 600 grit is an intermediate refining wheel, that of reducing the grinding pattern on a bevel and that it is exceeding slow at removing very much metal.
Tormek offers three grits in its diamond grinding wheels, at least for the T8, Coarse: DC = 360, Fine: DF = 600 and Extra Fine: DE = 1200. I have all three and use them for sharpening nearly all knife blades. I got these when they first came out (2018 or 19) because I was frustrated with the slow metal removal of the standard matrix grinding wheel. I was soon frustrated that even the DC (360 grit) was still not aggressive enough to remove nicks and chips, at least not very quickly.
I pursued several alternative heavier grinding alternatives, including:
1) traditional Norton 3X, 8" dia., 1" wide, 64 grit grinding wheel fitted to the T8,
2) slow speed (1750 rpm) grinder with white grit wheels,
3) variable speed belt grinder (Viel 1x42), outfitted to work with Tormek jigs, and
4) CBN grinding wheels, 80 grit on the slow speed bench grinder and 180 grit on the T8.
They all worked much better than even the coarsest Tormek diamond wheel. The traditional grinding wheel fitted to the T8 preserved the cool, wet grinding process of the Tormek.
Both the slow speed grinder and variable speed belt grinder had some issues with heat, but more of an annoyance was the grinding grit that gets on everything. I fitted the belt grinder with a DC variable speed motor and can get it down to almost a stand-still. The slow speed really helps to avoid damaging tempers, but it is still messy.
The 80 grit CBN wheel on the slow speed grinder works exceedingly well and is my go-to for some of the heavier grinding tasks where heat can be managed more easily. Such as HSS lathe turning tools.
The 180 grit CBN (2" wide x 10" dia.) works best on the T8 for re-establishing severely worn down bevels and nick/chip repairs. This is my first step in sharpening many knives (especially those that come in from other people), followed by the three Tormek diamonb wheels, then the Japanese waterstone (Tormek SJ) and then the rock hard felt wheel. If knives are used a lot and maintained in the kitchen with steels or ceramic rods, generally their bevels are misshapened enough they require re-establishing on the 180 grit CBN. This is where how one used a machine like the T1 makes a difference. If resharpened frequently, before the bevel gets reshaped, it probably works fine. If allowed to become misshaped, then it will take a while to re-establish the bevel to where a burr can be raised, which is essential to getting a knife really sharp. Repairing nicks and chips on the T1 can be done, but it would take exceedingly long, at least based on my experience grinding bevels using the Tormek 600 grit diamond wheel.
My friend has a T4 sharpener and I have used it several times with a set of Sandvik chisels I am very fond of and have used since the 1980s. I was taught to use a bench grinder with a very fine stone and use a buffing wheel after the stone. I can not imagine the T4 being priced at over $900. I know it foreign made but common sense has to prevail, and I like buying from Shiraz. https://www.grizzly.com/products/grizzly-10-variable-speed-wet-sharpener/t32720
paperpuncher
Gold $$ Contributor
This old Tony just had some relevant content on his YouTube page that might find interesting
T8, the flagship model is over $900. The T4 is around $550. Still spendy, but, in my opinion, worth it. Like many things, getting started, the base equipment is just the floor. Tooling (grinding wheels, jigs & accessories) can mount up fast.
I like the idea of a water cooled wheel so as not to overheat the tool/knife. But if one is patient and keeps a cup of water close by a conventional bench grinder works just fine. The carpenter I apprenticed under was far more than a carpenter, he was a model maker that worked in Detroit for all the bug 3 auto makers. Before design models were made from clay they were made from wood, he told of making a mock up cars from wood and to .030 of an inch. When working on his job we were taught and allowed to use his Craftsman tombstone grinder, a fine stone wheel on one side and a buffing wheel on the other, water cup and buffing compound. Chisels could shave hair with very little work and short time frame. I am using just such a set up now. I still have my old Sandvik's and a set one of my students bought me from Garret Wade. One day I will spring for the water cooled rig but I am unsure if it is much of an improvement after having used my friends. The water cooled would help if you are not disciplined enough to take your time and cool the tool/knife several times while using the stone wheel. There is no more satisfaction in using a chisel or block plane the is ridiculously sharp. I am hoping Josh B will tell us how he sharpens his tools.
I just bought a Xarilk sharpener off Ebay for $85. I havent used it yet. It recommends a digital angle finder to set the angle precisely. But I am very impressed with the way it’s built. The only plastic on it is the knob and guard on the handle. It should handle a chef knife.
Xarilk Sharpener
Xarilk Sharpener
fx77
Gold $$ Contributor
Check out this site
I for one use the Tormek and diamond stones too
Call them . They are most helpful
www.sharpeningsupplies.com
I for one use the Tormek and diamond stones too
Call them . They are most helpful
Sharpening Supplies
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