Top choice for sizing lube.

[Rtheurer]

Intrested in the top shooters and reloaders choice of sizing lube.

1. Regular FL sizing after fireforming. ( something more than a small neck and shoulder bump)

2. Forming Wildcat cartridges that require more than one trip through a die.
3. Proccess for removing the two lubes if they are not one in the same for you.
Lots of Top Nationaly ranked shooters post here and Im intrested in what your using.

I have been using Imperial ( now Redding) sizing lube for well over 10 years now with what I thought was a fantastic Lube. Once in a while Ill get a little over zelous on the neck and it will build up in the die on the shoulder area, giving me that wrinkle. Am I missing out on a better mouse trap?

RussT

 

[bozo699]

Rtheurer,
I used hornady one-shot for about ten years or so until I found Imperial, there has been no looking back its Imperial all the way for me.
Wayne.

 

[TheOtherZilla]

I'm not a top shooter, but have been reloading for nigh on 40 years.. I used to use the RCBS lube pad. Then One Shot, now days it's Imperial..

 

[CanusLatransSnpr]

Like zilla, I'm no top shooter but, I like to use the Hornady One Shot lube. Its very easy to use, light film on cases for sizing, and after sizing wipes off with a paper towel easily. Haven't tried Imperial Sizing Wax yet so I don't have an opinion on that product but, it seems as if folks like it.

Mike

 

[GermanS1]

I love Imperial - cheap, a tin lasts forever, easy to use and never sticks a case in the die. None better for me.

 

[jonbearman]

+1 for redding imperial sizing wax. I use one shot too but it sticks cases once in awhile. The wax is great.

 

[Preacher]

I stuck a few cases with One shot years and years ago, and have used non sticking Imperial ever sense and no more stuck cases.......

 

[bozo699]

Crow,
Yes it does take a little more time but not by much. With one shot you spray all 50 or 100 or however many you have in your loading block @ once,if the loading block is full the coverage isn't always even and you can get that infamous squeak sound on the down stroke which means you have pulled your neck and or a stuck if not careful. I think it is good lube but much more effective if you load every other row on your loading block.Then as you know if you have been using it long every once in a while a can will just stop working when still mostly full there goes $7-$9. With imperial once you get the hang of it, (get a system down) its almost as fast. I swipe my index finger across the lube as I am coming from or heading to the press and give the case a twist between my index-thumb-and middle fingers as I am heading to the press with it. For f/l sizing it might be a little slower, for neck sizing I think its a wash . One big plus for the imperial for me is my loading blocks are always clean! and I feel my cases are more concentric when I am finished. I am no top or professional shooter but this system works good for me, and I learned of it from top shooters. For n/k sizing the last 6/months or so I have been using the dry n/k lube, I don't have a solid opinion on it yet. for whatever its worth this is my opinion on the subject
Wayne.

 

[DaveWhite]

I've been using the One-Shot for almost ten years and have never had a case stuck, or a nozzle freeze shut. Using the Sinclair poly loading blocks, I run them through the dishwasher once in a while to keep them clean. A patch with a little lighter fluid on it takes the residue off in a second.

Great product.

 

[Kenny474]

Imperial for any heavy sizing or precision loading hands down. But for most of my pistol stuff and light sizing that doesn't take a ton of effort, I just thin Lee sizing lube with 90% rubbing alcohol and spray it on. Cheaper than most other stuff, and if it stops spraying, you just get a new spray bottle and dump it in.

As for stuck cases, only had one and that was because I was rushing and forgot to lube it.

 

[bigedp51]

Nothing beats Harley Davidson motor oil!

Its slipperier than snot on a door knob. ;D

Its time to change your lubricant..........

Any questions :

 

[Johnboy]

mink oil shoe polish.its just as good as imperial but cheaper and comes in bigger cans.

 

[bigedp51]

Hornady Unique Case Lube

58% to 85% bleached tallow
5% to 15% mink oil
5% to 15 % glycerol monooleate
5% to 15% glycerol esters of C14 C18 fatty acids

I used it for the first time creating a false shoulder on .303 British cases that had to go up to .35 caliber for the shoulder. It worked better than RCBS or Lyman case lube and I had no problems.

The best part is the Hornady case lube has two separate functions, one is lubing your cases.

The other is keeping your shoes and boots soft and dry............
(read bottom line)

 

[tenring]

I stuck a case with One Shot, never used it again. Imperial is great. But some time ago, I switched to Hornady Unique and it is as good, if not better than, Imperial. And you get a lot more for your money. No tin can to bounce around. Until I read the above post, did not realize it preserves leather boots. Now I know how to get it off my fingers after lubing cases. Now ya wanna convince me deer can't smell it?

 

[RonAKA]

I find out of a tight chamber neck sizing a 6BR with a bushing die, the oil off your skin will probably work. It is a nothing force. However, if you are FL sizing a big belted magnum that has been fired in a generous chamber, it is a totally different game. Motor oil will almost guarantee a stuck case. I found for these difficult cases a thin coat of STP worked the best for me.

 

[Longtrain]

I have realized that lube needs to be applied in a consistent manner to generate accurate case to case head spacing. I have used them all, but the best IMO is Imperial Case Lube.

In resizing for long range, Imperial gives me very accuracy head spacing of each case. In comparison to Hornady One Shot, (which I use for bulk sizing for my XTC spacegun) inconsistent spraying during application of the lube and case head spacing will vary. Changing to Imperial made all the difference in case sizing results.

Tony

 

[mkihne]

Way off topic, but Imperial wax reminds me of something I used to use in my hair, way back in the days. One was green like this and one orange. Which one was Butch Wax and which Crew Cut? ;D

 

[Kenny474]

My issue with the oil/liquid type lubricants stems from the oil dents and wrinkles I get when forming .222 cases from .223 and 5.56 brass. If you get just a small spot that is applied too thick on the neck/shoulder area, you are sure to have a oil dent or wrinkle. I found when forming with either a FL die or a Form/Trim die that I would have to size in very small increments and continually wipe off the neck/shoulder area or I would ruin cases with oil dents and wrinkles.

With Imperial the stuff is just so slippery that it only requires an extremely thin coating, and is much easier to apply extremely thin as it's a wax, and not an oil or liquid. It just feels so much smoother in the press handle, especially when using a FL die with an expander, as I often feel a grabbing when the expander is passing through the neck with the others. Just a small amount (of Imperial) on a Q-Tip wiped in the neck makes the expander just glide on through.

I have however found a lubricant I feel may be just as good as Imperial, and at half the price as well. (not that Imperial is super expensive, but anytime I can cut the cost of a product in half I'm happy) It's called Sharp Shoot R Royal Case Sizing Wax. (http://www.midwayusa.com/viewProduct/?productNumber=623016) I have only been using this stuff for a short time, but it seems to work just as well, though it is a bit lighter in consistency. You still only need as very small amount, and cases size like they are made of warm butter.

The Hornady Sizing Wax will likely be very similar as well, and I would try that long before any of the oil/liquid lubes.

And as I stated earlier, the Lee Case Sizing Lube works great for general sizing, and is awesome on most pistol cases (excluding very large or hard to size calibers) when thinned with rubbing alcohol (or even water) and sprayed on. It's also super cheap and easy to find.
Lee Case Sizing Lube is actually the same lube used by an auto manufacturer for their deep-draw stamping and other such forming applications. If it will hold up to deep draw stamping on a 40-ton press, sizing cartridge brass will be a cake walk.

The only downfall is that the Lee Lube is water based and will dis-color cases if not wiped off thoroughly soon after sizing. Other than that, it works great.


If you want the best for precision sizing and heavy forming, Imperial or Royal Sizing Wax are the way to go. If you want a versatile lube that can do it all, from forming and full length sizing, and even be thinned out and sprayed on, than Lee Sizing Lube is worth a shot.

For the best and most complete lube set-up ready for whatever the loading session brings, one of the waxes (Imperial or Royal), the Lee Case Sizing Lube and a neck graphiter (http://www.sinclairintl.com/.aspx/pid=33148/Product/Imperial_Application_Media [OR] http://www.sinclairintl.com/.aspx/sid=65732/sku/FORSTER_Graphiter) will handle whatever you throw at them.
You could even add a lube pad for use with slightly thinned Lee Lube, as I have done so in the past with good results. Just dampen the pad with a spray of water if it starts to dry out and add a bit more lube and it's good to go.

 

[1shot]

Hi Russ,
Someone beat me to the punch with the mink oil. I really like the Imperial wax a lot, but heard about the mink oil and had some lying around, so I thought I’d give it a try. I’ll hold a lighter under the bottom of the can for a few seconds to liquefy the stuff without getting it overly hot and then apply a small amount with my thumb and index finger. As for removal with either the mink oil or Imperial, after I’ve sized all my cases, I place them on an old towel and spray them for 3-4 seconds with Brake Kleen. Its $ 2.50 at W-mart or any automotive parts store and is chemically the same as Gun-Scrubber that cost $9.00+. I just grab all four corners of the towel with the brass inside, pick it up off the floor and roll them around for 5-10 seconds. This removes all the lube and the brass is clean and dry. My buddy puts his brass back in the tumbler, but then he has media stuck in the flash holes that he has to contend with, plus all that lube is now on the tumbling media. BTW, that Brake Kleen will kill wasps/hornets, etc. faster than Raid at 1/4th the cost.
I hope this helps,
Lloyd

 

[Rtheurer]

Kenny
I was talking to one of the benchrest shooters from my club this last winter and he mentioned this new lube that he was using and its the Royal you mention in your post. Is this new or is just not well known? He makes alot of wildcat cases and likes to tinker a bit so he ends up needing a heavy duty lube that will stand up to making steep shoulders and long Necks.
Lloyd: Mink Oil huh?

Looks like Imperial is still holding strong after all these years.

Russ T