Too Much Resistance While Full Sizing

[J.d. Popkes]

SAC Modular full sizing die. 223 Remington die, Lapua .223 brass, Imperial Case Lube. Making screeching noise and very heavy resistance. I'm concerned I could stick a case in the die. Brass fired 4X in a rifle reamed with a PTG reamer. Previously used a Redding full size die with no similar problem. I was careful to use enough lube.

Never had this problem before. I use this same die for 20 Practical brass (Lapua) with no problems.

Any advice would be appreciated.

Inside neck, expander ball? Or just the decapping rod?

 

[Heavy Metal 1]

Might want to try this:

https://www.midwayusa.com/product/1012768197?pid=614125

 

[D Coots]

SAC Modular full sizing die. 223 Remington die, Lapua .223 brass, Imperial Case Lube. Making screeching noise and very heavy resistance. I'm concerned I could stick a case in the die. Brass fired 4X in a rifle reamed with a PTG reamer. Previously used a Redding full size die with no similar problem. I was careful to use enough lube.

Never had this problem before. I use this same die for 20 Practical brass (Lapua) with no problems.

Any advice would be appreciated.

Pitch that brass and start out with new. Report back.

 

[Fire Dog]

Might want to try this:

https://www.midwayusa.com/product/1012768197?pid=614125


View attachment 1746785

NO…!
Sorry, but that stuff aside from being a nightmare of dirtiness will scratch your die…
I have use it {once} and also the stuff from 21St Century with the same poor results.
I suspect that the scratching {of die and brass} was due to the flaking of the ceramic media balls used to convey the graphite onto the brass.
The only “Dry Lube” I have found that even comes close to being useful is the “White Graphite” that Foster has carried over since they bought out Bonanza and is applied by a brush into the neck in their little box housing which needs to be closed and shaken every few cases but at least just goes on the inside of the neck and not on the outside of the case… Definitely “Non Scratch”…
Best stuff for inside neck lubrication is NeoLube #2 or a homemade version of ultra fine graphite mixed with a bit of Isopropyl alcohol.. It will dry by the time you have swiped the inside of the case neck of 50 and you can start mandreling or just standard sizing.
With the poster saying he was already having a dry screeching problem with Imperial Die Wax, {I prefer Ballistic Case Wax as it is even more lubricious and less runny when things warm up} he will surly stick a case with a dry lube.

 

[Kracken McGraw]

NO…!
Sorry, but that stuff aside from being a nightmare of dirtiness will scratch your die…
I have use it {once} and also the stuff from 21St Century with the same poor results.
I suspect that the scratching {of die and brass} was due to the flaking of the ceramic media balls used to convey the graphite onto the brass.
The only “Dry Lube” I have found that even comes close to being useful is the “White Graphite” that Foster has carried over since they bought out Bonanza and is applied by a brush into the neck in their little box housing which needs to be closed and shaken every few cases but at least just goes on the inside of the neck and not on the outside of the case… Definitely “Non Scratch”…
Best stuff for inside neck lubrication is NeoLube #2 or a homemade version of ultra fine graphite mixed with a bit of Isopropyl alcohol.. It will dry by the time you have swiped the inside of the case neck of 50 and you can start mandreling or just standard sizing.
With the poster saying he was already having a dry screeching problem with Imperial Die Wax, {I prefer Ballistic Case Wax as it is even more lubricious and less runny when things warm up} he will surly stick a case with a dry lube.

I like the 21st Century moly powder and use it all the time.

 

[lgwatson]

Squeak going in or out of the die?

both

 

[lgwatson]

NO…!
Sorry, but that stuff aside from being a nightmare of dirtiness will scratch your die…
I have use it {once} and also the stuff from 21St Century with the same poor results.
I suspect that the scratching {of die and brass} was due to the flaking of the ceramic media balls used to convey the graphite onto the brass.
The only “Dry Lube” I have found that even comes close to being useful is the “White Graphite” that Foster has carried over since they bought out Bonanza and is applied by a brush into the neck in their little box housing which needs to be closed and shaken every few cases but at least just goes on the inside of the neck and not on the outside of the case… Definitely “Non Scratch”…
Best stuff for inside neck lubrication is NeoLube #2 or a homemade version of ultra fine graphite mixed with a bit of Isopropyl alcohol.. It will dry by the time you have swiped the inside of the case neck of 50 and you can start mandreling or just standard sizing.
With the poster saying he was already having a dry screeching problem with Imperial Die Wax, {I prefer Ballistic Case Wax as it is even more lubricious and less runny when things warm up} he will surly stick a case with a dry lube.

I won't use dry lube for full length sizing. This die doesn't have the expander mandrel so the resistance isn't from the inside of neck.

 

[lgwatson]

Squeak going in or out of the die?

both

 

[243winxb]

Over working the brass imo.


Using the correct shoulder bump/bushing for that brass? With mandrel
AI Overview

The loaded neck diameter for .223 Remington Lapua brass is typically around
0.250" to 0.252", depending on the bullet diameter (standard .224") and specific neck wall thickness.

 

[243winxb]

mandrel

With no mandrel

 

[divingin]

Have you tried sizing a piece of brass in the Redding die (perhaps with and without expander), and then re-sizing in the problem die (again, with and without expander)? Does it feel like it's doing anything to the brass? That should help narrow down where the problem is occurring (maybe.)

 

[steve210]

If you are getting excessive resistance sizing with imperial die wax, you are sizing the brass to much. You have the wrong die for your chamber. Use a die that doesn't oversize your brass.

 

[Ed kof]

I bought a new set of RCBS dies for a new 6 creed. I had the same problem you are experiencing. Sent them back to rcbs and got a note saying everything was within spec. My buddy had a small ball hone so we used that to enlarge the die. Testing as we went. No more problems. The fired brass was well within specs before sending the die in. Edk

 

[lgwatson]

If you are getting excessive resistance sizing with imperial die wax, you are sizing the brass to much. You have the wrong die for your chamber. Use a die that doesn't oversize your brass.

It's a SAC .223 Remington Modular Sizing Die and Lapua .223 Remington brass. I suspect the rifle chamber may be a bit too large. Chambered with a PTG reamer.

 

[lgwatson]

Have you tried sizing a piece of brass in the Redding die (perhaps with and without expander), and then re-sizing in the problem die (again, with and without expander)? Does it feel like it's doing anything to the brass? That should help narrow down where the problem is occurring (maybe.)

I don't use an expander in the dies. I use a K&M expander. I will try your suggestion.

 

[lgwatson]

Pitch that brass and start out with new. Report back.

Good idea.

 

[lgwatson]

Inside neck, expander ball? Or just the decapping rod?

Just the decapper.

 

[charlie b]

First, can you see where on the case the die is working more? Neck, shoulder, base?

Second, I have recently started using a Redding FL S die for my .223. I have a 0.2497 bushing (McMaster Carr) to use on them. Then I run them in the Lee collet neck sizer for a finished OD of 0.2485. When a bullet is seated the neck is 0.2500. I tried a 0.2490 bushing and almost stuck the case. No, I do not anneal the cases.

Last, if the Redding FL worked I'd go back to it. I'm a little disappointed in the SAC response, but, I'd probably never try their dies anyway just due to cost.

 

[steve210]

It's a SAC .223 Remington Modular Sizing Die and Lapua .223 Remington brass. I suspect the rifle chamber may be a bit too large. Chambered with a PTG reamer.

I don't dispute that. I'm just saying your die doesn't match your chamber, you need a different die so you aren't oversizeing your brass.

 

[gunsandgunsmithing]

I don't dispute that. I'm just saying your die doesn't match your chamber, you need a different die so you aren't oversizeing your brass.

I'm not knocking SAC with this comment, I promise...Tighter doesn't mean better and more expensive...same way.. Die to chamber fit is a relationship. There is NOTHING difficult about making a sizing die. It doesn't even have to be "pretty" to do the job great. There is a cottage industry built around sizing dies but sizing dies have possibly the simplest job ever, in terms of die production. I mostly stopped buying custom dies 20 years ago and started spec'ing my chamber reamer to work with factory Redding bushing dies. Just a tweak here and there to the chamber reamer has saved me thousands in custom dies over the years. Trust me, it ain't custom to your chamber unless they had your fired brass or reamer print, too. Preferably your fired brass.