To nut or not

[Ksmirk]

Fella's I'm in the process of a Savage build and would really like a different option than a 1.06 barrel, I'd rather just get a blank and thread it BUT would I be hurting my accuracy by omiting the barrel nut? slight delima I've got here! either way I'll be threading and chambering a barrel but should I keep the nut or not?

Opinions would be a real plus if you could explain your opinion that would be better, opinions that make sense get a gold star! Later,

Kirk

 

[usngunner]

The barrel nut is all about flexibility. In my mind, if you don't want a barrel nut, go remmy.

 

[Taildrag15X]

I'd take the last post with a grain of salt.

I use both Rem. and Savage, and have switch barrrels in both, with no special tools other than headspace gauges on the Savages with nuts.

Check out lprgunsmith.com and see what Larry does on any action, click the link Switch Barrel.

 

[dukedurham]

No salt needed w/usngunner; Tabasco maybe, but no salt.

 

[NorCalMikie]

If you're running a Remington action, etc, the head space would have to be set up on the shoulder of the barrel. That means a lathe would have to come into play. And "that" head space can't be changed without the use of a lathe.
Savage? Spin the barrel to the settings "you" like and lock the nut. And change it in less than 5 minutes. Set it,the head space) so there's no brass growth and your cases will last a long time. Want to change calibers or reset the head space in the field? Try that on your "no nut" Remington/Savage/Stevens. You just lost the advantage of the nut.

 

[Ksmirk]

Ok no gold stars yet! I have access to a lathe, mill and once this is put together if I feel the need slap it in the barrel vice and pop it's off, BUT this barrel once installed will not come off unless something stupid pops up or it gets shot out.

I have the Savage action and do not like all the work on the Remington actions so why if I didn't want the barrel nut why should I go with the Remington action?

I guess I should say is the barrel nut a needed part of a Savage action? if I don't use it what will happen to accuracy? will it be the same or go to the crapper? this information would be helpful! the reasoning for being able to change barrels in the field not a big issue with this rifle and truth don't see where that would be a selling point unless maybe on a p-dog shoot. Later,

Kirk

 

[Preacher]

Changing barrels in a hurry without a lot of tools is the nuts advantage. Set a Savage up without a nut the correct way and it will shoot just as good as any will.
I just don't care for skinny barrels, and my fat barrels don't need no stinking nut

 

[Taildrag15X]

If you're running a Remington action, etc, the head space would have to be set up on the shoulder of the barrel. That means a lathe would have to come into play. And "that" head space can't be changed without the use of a lathe.
Savage? Spin the barrel to the settings "you" like and lock the nut. And change it in less than 5 minutes. Set it,the head space) so there's no brass growth and your cases will last a long time. Want to change calibers or reset the head space in the field? Try that on your "no nut" Remington/Savage/Stevens. You just lost the advantage of the nut.

You only need to set up one time, then the barrels can be swapped with out the headspace gauge, and best of all with the stock on! I do have a couple of Savages with the nuts, but that will change as barrels become shot out.

Check the Link: http://www.lprgunsmith.com/lpr_switch_rifle.htm

IMHO NO NUT!

I think I'll stick with

 

[memilanuk]

That's true... if you have a lathe and the machining abilities yourself... or have easy access to a nearby gunsmith that you trust and that will make a barrel to a given set of specs and ship it to you so the whole gun doesn't have to go in the shop for fitting for each and every barrel. Some BR gunsmiths will do this, if they've worked on your gun once and fitted a barrel to it, as long as someone else hasn't 'tweaked' it they can and will make barrels to fit and ship 'em out.

For the rest of us... with no gunsmith that will make barrels to fit an action without requiring the action in hand each and every time, or without access to the metalworking tools necessary to do the work ourselves...

There's something to be said about being able to change your own barrel in a vise mounted to a bench in your garage. For me, a set of head space gauges is about the same as it costs me to ship the gun back and forth to the gunsmith, plus I don't have to sit there and argue with him and convince him to do things the way I,the paying customer) wants. I do give up some flexibility in terms of custom throating and such... but I am starting to see a few gunsmiths that will take a customers reamer and barrel blank and chamber it and thread it to fit a Savage action,with nut) and send it back. *THAT* is what I like to see

YMMV,

Monte

 

[GermanS1]

Monte, one of the things I like,conceptually) about the Savage barrel nut system,though I don't have one) is the possibility of threading the barrel well past the normal amount. Then, as the rounds pile up, it can be set back a bit to freshen the throat with no loss of thread engagement and no need to chase the old threads. I would think that someone who does his own barrel work and can set the barrel back himself would see this as a real plus. I saw reently that someone is making a barrel nut for Remingtons,maybe PacNor) and I'm starting to really like the idea.

 

[Ksmirk]

Yeah I'm the lucky one that has a close friend that helps me or does the work I have not figured out, I'm working on getting a house with the room where I can get my own lathe and mill and hopefully grow a set to where Im not afraid to thread that $200-300 blank and not worry about screwing up :, it's just a hobby of mine that I'd like to get a little more into when the time and money are a little better. Pretty sure this build will be fixed and go nutless! thanks for the help fella's. Later,

Kirk

 

[jo191145]

Barrel nut all the way!!

German
I've found one of the best uses for the nut is the ability to adjust headspace for new brass. Seeing as I do not shoot factory ammo headspace is a relative thing. I would never recommend going over saami specs of course.

Grab a new lot of brass I wish to shoot in my Savs. FL size if nescessary to get the headspace consistent on the brass. Then headspace the barrel to a slight crush fit. The new brass will form very nicely to the chamber with minimal preliminary stretching. My need to trim brass surely seems to be less frequent since I adopted this method. Almost non existant in fact.
Accuracy while fireforming seems to have improved greatly and any load I find during fireforming seems much easier to reattain after.

One must make sure not to decrease headspace to the point where the bolt face contacts the barrel face.

Can't do that without a barrel nut. False shoulders will do it but your still getting that massive preliminary stretch.

 

[Taildrag15X]

Quess I'm just lucky enough to have 4 Gunsmiths, 2 I have to shoot against,Lou LaBerge being one, and Nate www.hbrifles.com second) within 50 Miles on my house, so I don't have to pay feight and I can visit when I want.

 

[JayIdaho]

I've seen Savages w/o a nut,been rebarreled) and Rem 700s with a nut. I see no reason to use a nut unless you are playing with more than one factory barrel on a Savage. One friend switches barrels AND bolt heads to go from mag to standard calibers. Savages are fun.
Custom barrels fitted to an action surely don't need a nut for adjustment. If you can fit and chamber a barrel, you can set it back when needed.
Opinion of one,

 

[chino1969]

Fella's I'm in the process of a Savage build and would really like a different option than a 1.06 barrel, I'd rather just get a blank and thread it BUT would I be hurting my accuracy by omiting the barrel nut? slight delima I've got here! either way I'll be threading and chambering a barrel but should I keep the nut or not?

Opinions would be a real plus if you could explain your opinion that would be better, opinions that make sense get a gold star! Later,

Kirk

I've seen it done both ways and see no conclusive evidence to support one method being superior to the other. I'm talking about Savage actions, being properly trued, squared, with a precision ground recoil lug. The one rifle has a barrel threaded via conventional means, i.e. without a barrel nut and the other rifle with the barrel nut. Both actions are sporting custom barrels smithed by a benchrest quality gunsmith. Both rifles shoot extremely well. My buddy owns the Savage with the conventionally threaded barrel and I own the one with the barrel nut. The only difference between our two methods is that he can screw on a larger diameter barrel, whereas my diameter is limited to 1.065".

Do I qualify for the gold star?

Lou Baccino
Chino69

 

[Ksmirk]

The winner of the gold star goes to chino69! that's the goods I was looking for plus he ask so nicely I just couldn't say no. This rifle will be a LR tactical maybe shoot some F/TR 308 and I'm thinking that Sendero taper is about right but no way to get there if I used the barrel nut! I pretty much made up my mind but ya know that little voice in the back of your head that tries to talk you out of stuff? yeah that was the problem! anyway fella's thanks a heap. Oh chino69 don't brag too much it's just a little paper sticky star but it is gold in color Later,

Kirk

 

[reloader243]

I'm a "Nut" fan as well. In fact I'd like to find out if I could have my Rem 700 set up the same as my savage...and If possible my Win 70 .243 WSSM the same...I like to be able to switch barrel...and I have no complaints on accuracy with my Savage Target Action....308 and .243AI...I'd go with the NUT..

 

[chino1969]

The winner of the gold star goes to chino69! that's the goods I was looking for plus he ask so nicely I just couldn't say no. This rifle will be a LR tactical maybe shoot some F/TR 308 and I'm thinking that Sendero taper is about right but no way to get there if I used the barrel nut! I pretty much made up my mind but ya know that little voice in the back of your head that tries to talk you out of stuff? yeah that was the problem! anyway fella's thanks a heap. Oh chino69 don't brag too much it's just a little paper sticky star but it is gold in color Later,

Kirk

It might be a little paper sticky star to you but it's the best I've gotten all year; beggars can't be choosy.

With regards to your situation, the diameter of the barrel shank would be the determining factor as to use the barrel nut or not. I must admit, I would like to have the capability of mounting a thicker shank diameter barrel and may go this route in the future. That route, of course, will require a trip to Clarence Hammonds to chamber, index, and record all the measurements for future barrel orders. There is nothing wrong with that but I have to balance my budget for shooting with college tuition payments; the gunsmith route requiring some time and more funds than a Pac-Nor pre fit. Bear in mind my Savage is used for live varmints and paper punching during the off season. Being a tinkerer and experimenter by nature, I like the idea of being able to make incremental changes in my headspace with the Savage barrel nut.

There is one other thing to consider in choosing either of the two methods and it is that of pre-tensioning the threads via the Savage barrel nut. Harold Vaughn discussed this concept in his book 'Rifle Accuracy Facts' and there may be some merit to his theory. As I understand the concept, if the threads are pre-tensioned, the resulting harmonics may be dampened which will lead to increased accuracy.

How about considering giving me a second gold star? A silver star will do as well.

Lou Baccino
Chino69

 

[Ksmirk]

Lou you are just full of information dude! The fella doing this for me since I don't have the lathe nor the nut's to thread that blank! has done a couple like this and have been getting very good reports back and I have yet to see anything bad come out of his work! now mind you this is not a BR rifle I just don't have the patience to do that stuff. We pretty much just set the headspace at .001-.003,if I recall) the only thng I deal with is adjusting seating depth and powder charge until I find the sweet spot and well after that I really don't change! the rifle we built back in 98 or 99 shot the same load for over 7500 rounds before the barrel went belly-up at least for me the groups went to around an inch @100. I'm pretty sure this thing is going to work out better than I can shoot. Oh sorry I'd give you a star but I only had the one gold one left from a spelling test I took back in the 3rd grade,only one I got) :thumb: Later,

Kirk

 

[jo191145]

Correct me if I'm wrong.
The standard small shank Savage and Remington have the same shank size just different threads. 1.060"
Any extra thickness in a Remmys barrel is there simply to provide a shoulder.

Switching to a Savage Target Action the shank size bumps to 1.120"
If you feel the need for a thicker barrel than that its time to go full custom. Or a rail gun

Good luck with your build.