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Tips for using the stripped bolt method for seating depth.

I would like to suggest that bore cleaning chemical/s seem to generate some attention

And let's not forget the use of bore scopes, floating reamer holders, chambering methods, reamer suppliers, etc, etc, ad nauseam.

As my Grandmother used to say, 'For heaven's sake! You kids would fight over a dead toad!'
 
hey guys. lots of ways to skin this cat. most work quite well. even the top of the top don't agree on something as simple as bore cleaning.

it is all about what works for you. there are 100's of variables we deal with in shooting and reloading. if you have found a path through all of it that gives you satisfaction on target then so be it. you can offer up what has worked for you but don't get your feelings hurt if someone disagrees.

i have been down the rabbit hole. i know with more experience many of those who were so single minded about how to do something will mellow out and even try some of the things that push them out of there comfort zone.

i am pretty secure in my knowledge and experience. i learned long ago that there may be a better way. if i read about it i try it. then i can make an informed decision as to whether it works for me. i just ignore the uninformed and argumentative post. figure if they stick with it they will eventually figure it out for themselves.
 
Thanks Alex.... I’m using your method with my Defiance action and experiencing the extractor side pressure issue. Your suggestion is “I put a piece of tape on the bottom of the extractor to hold it up enough to eliminate that.” Later in this thread, Ledd Slinger suggested a little file work on the claw. Could you please give a bit more guidance...maybe a picture? Thanks again!
 
Remove the mini16 extractor, place a couple layers of electrical tape on the underside of the extractor and trim it flush to the edge. It will keep the extractor up a little more.
 
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Annealing should not even BE a topic. Its like everything else. Its works with some combos and will kill the accuracy of others. Blanket statements about annealing just mean you have not worked with enough barrels and calibers yet :)
Alex, if you yourself do anneal what determines when you do anneal?
 
Annealing helps some cartridges more then others. I see where the necks are thicker and longer, another words having way more hold, it seems to help more. The Dasher with the short neck and thin walls is way more touchy. My buddy anneals his Dasher every time and wins more relays then anybody. He also shot the smallest group aggs in light gun at Williamsport then was ever shot. Matt
 
I watched a fella last Saturday shoot a 196-7 then a 193-5 then a 200-15. Only difference was he annealed the brass for the last string. It was in the worst wind condidtions as well.
Scores dont tell me a thing about accuracy. Now if the lower scores were all vertical I guess that could mean something. But a 190 vs a 200 could be so many other things that I find it a poor measure of accuracy. Would need to see those targets to determine if the load was better or not. Even then maybe he had just leaned the conditions better by the 3rd target??
 
Alex, if you yourself do anneal what determines when you do anneal?
I am not anti annealing by any means. Im anti guessing, and Im anti doing something because someone does it that way. I have annealed every time, I have also annealed every 3-5 times, I have also not annealed. Just do some testing and see how your rifle responds. Annealing drastically changes neck tension. Just a different lot of bullets can change whether or not the rifle likes annealing (pressure rings).
 
With annealing brass my way of thinking , I would do more harm then good .
Last season I got 25 reloads out of the same 30 HMR brand cases , when one out of the lot showed a minor crack at the case mouth I dumped all 30 . At that time I was tweaking my reloads during this period . This season I'm using 3 sets of 30 each set a different brand , HSM , FC and ADI , all three are on the thick side .

I'm using the same load , no tweaking and I finding my groups are accurate and consistent now that I'm concentrating on only my form . Different weather conditions linked with all the other variables in reloading , annealing brass would throw something else into the mix .Maybe brass has a life just like a rifle barrel , after a barrel is shot out you're never going to get that tight group .

This season alternating the 3 different brass brands , I'm testing if one brand works better then the other . The stripped bolt works great for me , I do it every new lot of bullets .
 
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With annealing brass my way of thinking , I would do more harm then good .
Last season I got 25 reloads out of the same 30 HMR brand cases , when one out of the lot showed a minor crack at the case mouth I dumped all 30 . At that time I was tweaking my reloads during this period . This season I'm using 3 sets of 30 each set a different brand , HSM , FC and ADI , all three are on the thick side .

I'm using the same load , no tweaking and I finding my groups are accurate and consistent now that I'm concentrating on only my form . Different weather conditions linked with all the other variables in reloading , annealing brass would throw something else into the mix .Maybe brass has a life just like a rifle barrel , after a barrel is shot out you're never going to get that tight group .

This season alternating the 3 different brass brands , I'm testing if one brand works better then the other . The stripped bolt works great for me , I do it every new lot of bullets .
Where is the reasoning for the annealing harm? Different variables doesn't fly, it either helps or it doesn't.


Ray
 
With annealing, every time you seat a bullet, with the same bushing, you get the same neck tension. Period.

Without annealing, as the brass work hardens, using the same neck bushing...you get different neck tension. And you don't know it until you seat the bullet...and then it's too late to change the bushing to get the proper neck tension.

If nothing else, annealing will give you consistency in sizing (bump) and neck tension for bullet seating.
 
Yes , as long as you heat the brass to the same temperature when turning every case the same exact way . Hard enough shooting with the same exact ,cheekweld , trigger press and shoulder pressure . Can you tell some way how jhot the brass gets each time and how soft the brass is getting . I was checking neck thickness , picking a bushing to give me a .001 & .002 grip on the bullet , could never see a change in group size , maybe because Im shooting 200 yards all the time with a 200 yard zero . I'm mostly the blame for a poor group , you can feel when everything feels right behind the rifle and the groups show it . Just like when you know you through a round ,you can call it . Very rarely does a shot go south without knowing why . Annealing would just add another mystery to the mix . For me at least .
I'm happy with an average of 1/2" ten shot groups , I don't think I could do better , maybe with younger eyes .
 

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