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Tips for better AR shooting ?

Wolfdog91

Silver $$ Contributor
Hay all , I'm gonna be honest here and say when it comes to shooting groups wit my AR, I kinda suck Could qual with a M4 33-36/40 all day but I'm not very good trying to shoot nice groups off the bench. Then again shooting an ibsic torso @300 and a 1" dot @100 are kinda two different things I guess lol. Like I can plink cans and the like pretty easy but would like to be much better ,was looking for some tips that could help. I have started doing dry fire practice more and more when I come home from work ( practicing building my position with the rear bag loading my bipod and checking my bubble level trigger squeeze) but wanted to see what the pros do, can't really find alot on YouTube on the subject. Lots on bolt guns which I shoot just fine but not much at all on AR specific stuff
Here my little rig , real budget deal to be honest ( I'm a poor what can I say) But it can do a decent group if I do my part.
IMG_20211231_164606960.jpg
IMG_20211230_145447239.jpg
Anyway I am saving up to hopefully build a nicer target style ar but till then any tips would be appreciated
 
That’s a pretty decent group from a rifle that doesn’t have a free float hand guard and shot with a bipod. Not sure how much better you can expect. Wind flags will help. Practice plays a big part to.
 
Great start!

Question, do you wrap your thumb around the pistol grip? Try not doing that. I'm guessing that flier is like me, slight change in grip pressure cants the rifle.

Next question is rear bag; are you using one, and is it staying in place shit after shot or are you using a rear squeeze bag/technique that may be affecting return to same position?

Then there's, where your cheek lands and where your shoulder lands; consistency is key.

How's your rifle tuned? Brass eject into a neat pile at ~5oclock?
 
Most of the time, but certainly not always, you will see the scope much further forward.

If this fits you as is, then leave it. If you didn't spend time checking the scope in prone, offhand, and benched, then playing with ergonomics matters.

The head position of optics versus the irons can be run roughly the same, that is, nose to charge handle or close to it. There are other stocks that are more suited to serious accuracy versus point blank door kicking work. They help with head position and consistent cheek weld.

The same can be said about using the gas blocks as the bipod support or not having the free floated bbl. Your rig and groups were fine when you consider the carbine features are meant for close work rather than accuracy.

To get accuracy performance along the lines of a PRS, National Match style Service Rifle, or high performance varmint rifle, you would need to study those types of float systems and barrel sections. When you are ready, you could work with your current lower, and or decide to leave this rig as a Personal Defense version and get a different one for accuracy work, and/but/or you could leave the upper alone and just get something from a place like White Oak Arms in a varmint version or match gun version.

Till then, I think there is nothing wrong with what you are showing and in fact I think it is above average when the upper is considered.
 
When shooting an AR follow through is the most important thing, hold it twice as long as you think necessary. My friend in Tennessee is one of the best AR shooters ive ever seen. he says if you adjust one leg on the bipod just shy of verticle and the opposite side closer to flat to counter torque it will help a lot. I have tried and i think it helps.
 
The 2 best things I did were replace the trigger and put an a2 style stock on my ar15s that I consider accurate. Larue makes a trigger that is way better than it should be for the price. Under $100. Its not a target trigger by any means but it helps compared to a G.I. trigger. CDNN has an a2 stock kit for around $50. I put a magpul moe stock and an elftmann trigger in one of my rifles and comfortable shooting ot became easier. But like whats been said thats already pretty good shooting for the set up.
 
By the way, impressive group to start! Evaluate each and every change above with several 5-round groups. Probability and physics go hand in hand. What's the possibility that you shot the best group ever in that one instance? We'll always challenge you to repeat it.

-Mac
 
mac86951 said:
Great start!

Question, do you wrap your thumb around the pistol grip? Try not doing that. I'm guessing that flier is like me, slight change in grip pressure cants the rifle.

Next question is rear bag; are you using one, and is it staying in place shit after shot or are you using a rear squeeze bag/technique that may be affecting return to same position?

Then there's, where your cheek lands and where your shoulder lands; consistency is key.

How's your rifle tuned? Brass eject into a neat pile at ~5oclock?
Click to expand...

No I do the thumb over method I try not not choke the grip think one of the army fm's refed to it as a light handshake style grip.
And yes I'm using a rear bag but I can't really say I've been using one correctly yet. I was trying to and I feel failing or at least not getting the best performance out of it with a standard m4 style stock. I mad a bag rider though out of PVC and epoxied that on there and it's been a much more consistent deal. I was using a old caldwell bag with the in modified stock bust ever since I modded it I've gone bag to just a sock filled with old corn cob tumbling media. I can't squish it and mold it a little better then my caldwell bag IMG_20211229_234141136.jpg

As far as my cheek and shoulder welds , there not as good as I'd like to be 100%. I mean I can do it pretty repeatably but it takes a little effort. I can't just "fall" into it open my ways and boom I'm on target like with my bolt guns . But they all have cheek prices I made that allow me to do that very easily. I'm looking hard at one of the luth-AR stocks with adjustable cheek and shoulder bits but for the price I'm thinking about just saving that for the target/ varmit build I'm trying to save up for.

As far as running, I'm actually not super sure, I shoo with a brass catcher on so never really noticed that to be honest
 
Dusty Stevens said:
Id start with a better trigger and a more target friendly upper. Look around for a bull barrel upper, at least 20” long with a free float tube. Try to get one with a 223 wylde chamber or better. My choice is compass lake engineering
Click to expand...
Yes I did change the trigger which has helped alot. Well it was the jp enterprises spring kit so that's helped a ton. Going from 6lbs down to 3 1/2lbs
 
A bipod on a solid bench is not conducive to precision shooting. Bipods are effective when used on the ground where the stiffness is somewhat dampened. In order to wring the best accuracy out of any rifle a solid rest and a consistent hold is required. Any inconsistencies on your hold or your cheek pressure will negatively influence your results.
 
RegionRat said:
Most of the time, but certainly not always, you will see the scope much further forward.

If this fits you as is, then leave it. If you didn't spend time checking the scope in prone, offhand, and benched, then playing with ergonomics matters.

The head position of optics versus the irons can be run roughly the same, that is, nose to charge handle or close to it. There are other stocks that are more suited to serious accuracy versus point blank door kicking work. They help with head position and consistent cheek weld.

The same can be said about using the gas blocks as the bipod support or not having the free floated bbl. Your rig and groups were fine when you consider the carbine features are meant for close work rather than accuracy.

To get accuracy performance along the lines of a PRS, National Match style Service Rifle, or high performance varmint rifle, you would need to study those types of float systems and barrel sections. When you are ready, you could work with your current lower, and or decide to leave this rig as a Personal Defense version and get a different one for accuracy work, and/but/or you could leave the upper alone and just get something from a place like White Oak Arms in a varmint version or match gun version.

Till then, I think there is nothing wrong with what you are showing and in fact I think it is above average when the upper is considered.
Click to expand...
I checked a few ways like you mentioned and with the stock all the way out it was the most comfortable for me ,I'ma smaller guy @5'1 so alot if my scopes are a little more scrunched in compared to most

And your right about all the prs stuff, I don't think I've ever seen something like what I've got at any of the matches I've seen, heck or even on predator hunts now that I think about it.
But another question, my lower is actually a polymer lower think that could have something do do with it as well ?
 
I would HIGHLY recommend replacing the scope base/ring combo you are using.

Have somebody video tape, in slow motion, as you run a round down the pipe. You won't believe how much that scope is flexing - because of the weight and length of the scope, combined with the REALLY small footprint of the base/ring combo.

Get rid of the swivel bipod or lock it down.

Shoot on 10 or 12 power on black and white targets.
 
Yea i didnt notice that scope mount. Ditch that and get some real rings. Also like was said you need to put your nose on the charging handle so adjust your scope accordingly. The polymer lower yes is not helping, but with all you got goin on youre shooting about 3x as good as id suspect that combo would so keep it up!
 
Bet a better trigger - Larue MBT for the price is hard to beat.
A free float rail would help too. The pencil barrels are fine as long as you dont shoot more than 5-10 rounds and let it cool.
that scope is too far forward and too high. Unless you have a face like lurch, no way you are getting a good repeatable cheek weld. In turn, a repeatable rear eye position.
The Magpul PRS or UBR stock would better suit you. PRS would allow you to continue to use that high scope mount because the cheek piece is adjustable. THe UBR is a great stock because no matter the LOP, the cheek weld remains the same.
 
acloco said:
I would HIGHLY recommend replacing the scope base/ring combo you are using.

Have somebody video tape, in slow motion, as you run a round down the pipe. You won't believe how much that scope is flexing - because of the weight and length of the scope, combined with the REALLY small footprint of the base/ring combo.

Get rid of the swivel bipod or lock it down.

Shoot on 10 or 12 power on black and white targets.
Click to expand...
Yeah I actually got a set sitting in my shopping cart waiting for pay day I don't have a actual gun shop within about two hours of me so I just stole it off another rig I barely shoot to ride me over till then . I can actually record myself and mabye post it here if y'all think that could help diagnose some stuff. And yes the bipod gets locked down as some as my Bible level is good. If I'm not at the range I'm shooting prime in cow pastures and I've had alot of headaches with non swiveling bipods
 
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